U.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]
#5582
Hershey66, I was all ready to hit the sack and figured I'd just look at this thread quick. Now you have my head swimming in a sea of classic VTA images! Now I'll never get to sleep!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing!
#5583
Tech Adept
Haha probably surprised to see pics of real cars in here lol
#5584
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Don't know if they displayed this car in Monterey or not, but it's local and freshly restored, and currently on display at a local Chevy dealership.
http://www.historictransam.com/projects/JonMello.html
http://www.historictransam.com/projects/JonMello.html
#5585
Tech Fanatic
Finally i got some time to paint my VTA body.
I wanted it to be a simple and clean painting and used a tamiya spray can i had for some time but never had any use for it.
I think it looks great but i still haven't decided if i would paint the spoiler and mount it on the car.
As i live in Belgium there is no class for this type so it's just for fun, but i wanted to try this body/tires and 21.5T motor type to see how you guys like this class so much.
Not sure what FDR suits my club track with a 30M straight best but my starting point is 4.3 and see how it goes.
Chassis is a Spec-R S2 with a R1 upper deck and S1 front damper stay to get better flex and lower ride height.
Looking forward to test this setup, especially how the tires will handle.
Here are some pictures
I wanted it to be a simple and clean painting and used a tamiya spray can i had for some time but never had any use for it.
I think it looks great but i still haven't decided if i would paint the spoiler and mount it on the car.
As i live in Belgium there is no class for this type so it's just for fun, but i wanted to try this body/tires and 21.5T motor type to see how you guys like this class so much.
Not sure what FDR suits my club track with a 30M straight best but my starting point is 4.3 and see how it goes.
Chassis is a Spec-R S2 with a R1 upper deck and S1 front damper stay to get better flex and lower ride height.
Looking forward to test this setup, especially how the tires will handle.
Here are some pictures
#5586
Just finished this Shelby GT for a local racer for VTA. Should hit the track soon! Well, as soon as I get it to him so he can get it mounted and to the track!
#5588
Thanks. He wanted to use his colors, white, gold & blue. I looked at a lot of examples on the internet, but if I did something too outlandish, it wasn't going to look scale. I thought about doing one stripe one color and the other, the other color. Like the one below. But, I decided on the fade from blue to gold instead. But I do like this one below. Might do it next time.
#5589
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Thanks. He wanted to use his colors, white, gold & blue. I looked at a lot of examples on the internet, but if I did something too outlandish, it wasn't going to look scale. I thought about doing one stripe one color and the other, the other color. Like the one below. But, I decided on the fade from blue to gold instead. But I do like this one below. Might do it next time.
#5590
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Here is a McALLISTER 1969 VTA Mustang.
The paint scheme is movie inspired...can you guess which movie?
Here are the rattle can paints that I used.
- Pactra RC254 Racing Red (red stripes)
- Pactra RC262 Indy Silver (used as a backer for stripes)
- Pactra RC265 Metallic Blue (main blue)
- Pactra RC285 Bright Yellow (main yellow)
- Pactra RC286 Brilliant Blue (used to back/darken Metallic Blue)
- Tamiya PS-1 White (white stripes)
- Tamiya PS-5 Black (front grill applied on exterior of body)
I still need to mount and trim the body, but it will be paired with a set of yellow dyed wheels
The paint scheme is movie inspired...can you guess which movie?
Here are the rattle can paints that I used.
- Pactra RC254 Racing Red (red stripes)
- Pactra RC262 Indy Silver (used as a backer for stripes)
- Pactra RC265 Metallic Blue (main blue)
- Pactra RC285 Bright Yellow (main yellow)
- Pactra RC286 Brilliant Blue (used to back/darken Metallic Blue)
- Tamiya PS-1 White (white stripes)
- Tamiya PS-5 Black (front grill applied on exterior of body)
I still need to mount and trim the body, but it will be paired with a set of yellow dyed wheels
#5592
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Since I only paint with spray cans, I still have a lot of partial cans of Pactra paint. In the process of painting that body, I used up 2 cans and had to throw away a third because it had gone bad.
If anyone is still looking for paint that is very similar to the Pactra lexan paint, I would suggest looking at the Duratrax lexan paint. Here are some links...
http://www.duratrax.com/paint/index.html
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...duratrax+paint
I'm not sure if Duratrax revived the Pactra line or developed their own paint formulas, but several of the paint names are identical. The Duratrax paint comes in a larger can, so it may be a better value than the Pactra.
Here are some other companies that sell paint for lexan bodies.
- Tamiya PS paints (lacquer based, bottles, spray cans)
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/cat...p?sub-id=61700
- Spazstick Paints (lacquer based, bottles, spray cans including mirror chrome paints)
http://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.c...r%20Brush=1706
- Parma Faskolor (water based, no spray cans)
http://www.parmapse.com/fas1.html
http://parmapse.shptron.com/c/faskolor-paint-shop
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...EARCH=faskolor
- LRP Magic Colour (type ??, only spray cans, also have foam paints)
http://www.lrp-americastore.com/paint/
http://www.lrp-americastore.com/cont...2014_US_fv.pdf
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ARCH=lrp+paint
This isn't meant to be a complete list, as I just discovered the LRP paint when I was creating this post. There are also other paints that will adhere to lexan, such as Testors Model Master lacquer paints. Paints that aren't designed for lexan may adhere to polycarbonate but may not flex or bond properly. This will result either in paint that easily chips or scratches off the body. You will always want to test before painting any body with non R/C paint.
Here is another quick painting tip. While you typically paint the inside of an R/C body, you can also paint the outside to achieve different results. You can achieve a flat finish by painting the outside of a body, such as the whole hood/bonnet. Also it can be easier to paint the front grill on many of the VTA bodies from the outside. Since the grill on many of these cars was flat black in real life, it looks period correct. You can also find clear paints that have a matte finish that can be applied to the outside of a body.
One last tip, use light coats when using a spray can. Since it is hard to control the volume of paint coming out of a can, it is best to use multiple light coats of paint. Not only will this allow the paint to stick better, but it will help keep the weight of the body down.
I hope this info helps the people out there that don't own an airbrush.
If anyone is still looking for paint that is very similar to the Pactra lexan paint, I would suggest looking at the Duratrax lexan paint. Here are some links...
http://www.duratrax.com/paint/index.html
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...duratrax+paint
I'm not sure if Duratrax revived the Pactra line or developed their own paint formulas, but several of the paint names are identical. The Duratrax paint comes in a larger can, so it may be a better value than the Pactra.
Here are some other companies that sell paint for lexan bodies.
- Tamiya PS paints (lacquer based, bottles, spray cans)
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/cat...p?sub-id=61700
- Spazstick Paints (lacquer based, bottles, spray cans including mirror chrome paints)
http://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.c...r%20Brush=1706
- Parma Faskolor (water based, no spray cans)
http://www.parmapse.com/fas1.html
http://parmapse.shptron.com/c/faskolor-paint-shop
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...EARCH=faskolor
- LRP Magic Colour (type ??, only spray cans, also have foam paints)
http://www.lrp-americastore.com/paint/
http://www.lrp-americastore.com/cont...2014_US_fv.pdf
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ARCH=lrp+paint
This isn't meant to be a complete list, as I just discovered the LRP paint when I was creating this post. There are also other paints that will adhere to lexan, such as Testors Model Master lacquer paints. Paints that aren't designed for lexan may adhere to polycarbonate but may not flex or bond properly. This will result either in paint that easily chips or scratches off the body. You will always want to test before painting any body with non R/C paint.
Here is another quick painting tip. While you typically paint the inside of an R/C body, you can also paint the outside to achieve different results. You can achieve a flat finish by painting the outside of a body, such as the whole hood/bonnet. Also it can be easier to paint the front grill on many of the VTA bodies from the outside. Since the grill on many of these cars was flat black in real life, it looks period correct. You can also find clear paints that have a matte finish that can be applied to the outside of a body.
One last tip, use light coats when using a spray can. Since it is hard to control the volume of paint coming out of a can, it is best to use multiple light coats of paint. Not only will this allow the paint to stick better, but it will help keep the weight of the body down.
I hope this info helps the people out there that don't own an airbrush.
Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 08-26-2015 at 08:33 AM.
#5594
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
We have a winner. Didn't think it would take long for someone to recognize it.
I was watching The Road Warrior the other day and it inspired me to be a bit different. When I was searching the internet for pictures, I didn't realize there were that many different MFP vehicles.
I altered the scheme of my Pursuit Mustang to better fit the rear deck lid and spoiler.
I was watching The Road Warrior the other day and it inspired me to be a bit different. When I was searching the internet for pictures, I didn't realize there were that many different MFP vehicles.
I altered the scheme of my Pursuit Mustang to better fit the rear deck lid and spoiler.