MarkA

iTrader: (21)

I've come to realize that while I had a little hope of doing it again, more Pro10 racing is not going to come to fruition for myself in the future. I am actually racing quite a bit again (OffRoad, oh the heresy! ) doing quite well and enjoying the brushless/lipo era but I'd like to see my Pro10 stuff find a happy home. I have no doubt it would be a competitive car again today.

So, in one batch, I am offering my 10Lv2.5, aka the tri-shock L2 and enough spare parts to keep it going for probably several seasons.

The car itself is an L2 chassis with:
Almost all screws are aluminum or titanium. Literally all of them except for the little 2-56 ones in the T-bar and the long steel one at the back of the T-bar are alum or ti.
All nuts are aluminum
All ball studs are aluminum
AE FT Titanium turnbuckles
AE FT Titanium front axles – the e-clip ones that are the lightest you can get
AE alum servo mounts
Machined lightened RH motor mount
AE FT carbon LH bulkhead
AE FT clamping LH rear hub
AE FT lightened RH rear hub
Acer Ceramic front wheel bearings
Acer Ceramic rear axle bearing where the axle rides.

For the “2.5” part of the setup, it is the narrow pod car. That means the motor is centered inline with the car much better. Even after we could get the Powell components to make a wide-pod L2.5, I preferred the balance of the car better this way. It will fit a brushless motor fine although getting it in may require you to unscrew the top plate to do so. Motors with tabs in-set a bit like the Trinity/Epic cans will give you the most room for the wires.

The L2.5 parts consist of the AE CF lower pod plate and CF top plate. The side shocks are the IRS “Silva” ones.

It will also come with an Airtronics 737 Servo.

For spare parts, all of the following are new, in the package:
2 Kimbrough 48p/84t spur gears with diff balls
2 AE 8419 front arms
2 AE 4349 Axle bearing holders
AE 4336 T-bar pivot ball
AE 8417 front pivot balls
3, 10-packs of the IRS/Silva foam inserts for the side shocks
10-pack of the IRS/Silva micro shock o-rings
IRS/Silva micro shock rebuilt kit w/ the plastic parts, etc.
AE 8191 T-bar
AE 8475 CF lower pod plate
AE 8213 diff cone assembly
2 packs of AE diff rings
Tube of diff balls
4 1/2x3/8 non-ceramic rear axle bearings
1 1/4x3/8 ceramic rear axle bearing
2 AE 8411 front eyelets
2 AE 8421 steering blocks
2 pair of AE FT ti front axles
AE 8481 shock mount
AE 8445 servo saver
Robinson 48p/13t “titanium gold” pinion gear
Robinson 48p/14t “titanium gold” pinion gear

In addition to the new parts, also included are:
Full set of AE micro (side) shock springs
Bag of new/used HPI body posts for different bodies
Alum front crossbrace
Two lightened RH motor mounts
One stock AE motor mount
Stock LH bulkhead
Extra shock bladder for the center shock
Stock RH hub
Lightened, clamping, but not blue LH hub
Lower CF pod plate
CF top pod plate
Rear axle
Additional new but unpackaged front end parts
Original L2 box & manual.

It does not come with any tires beyond a set of brand new, sealed TRC green fronts that may or maynot still be good.

If requested, I can include a few used bodies. I have two Proto MD 905's and a P35. One of the 905's is in pretty good shape. The other one and the P35 have seen some more action. Warning – they are all painted like my avatar pic.

Caveats:
The side shocks need to be rebuilt and the center shock needs a new bushing for the cap but parts for all of that are included.
The rear axle in the car was my stock class axle. That is, the narrow pod tended to wear a slight groove in the axle where the RH bearing rides. I would use newer axles with less play for high-speed mod racing and then cycle them into being “stock class” axles as the play grew a little. The spare axle is actually the newer one in this case.
There is some wear on the rear corners of the chassis itself from having gone over the transitions at our old home track. It does not effect the function of the car.
The servo may have some issues with some newer digital receivers but I dunno for certain which ones it will/will not work with.

Take it all for $190 shipped in the U.S. or I will ship to the EU or Canada at an additional cost to you. Payment by PayPal. PM me if interested.

No trades, no offers. Anything less than that and I'll keep it for sentimental value so I'm only posting it here for the crowd that frequents this thread.

TOADYY

iTrader: (6)

Mark,
Please say it ain't true...you went over to the DARK SIDE! And you are selling your Pro 10.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

It's worse than the dark side, it's the short course dark side.... And I have two of them even but at least they both work pretty well

Actually, OnRoad asphalt electric up here is now somewhere between dead and in disarray and the more I thought about it, the less I liked the idea of carpet racing which is limited to the winter months anyway. With OffRoad, I can race 2-3days a week year-round if I wanted to and once I got over my Southern CA-based notions about it, I've found it to be populated by a totally different group of racers/type of people than what we were around back then. I haven't done anything to my 2wd truck in the last ten race weeks other than change the batteries!

I'm really selling the L2.5 more in the hope that someone will use it than for any other reason.

TOADYY

iTrader: (6)

Well today is a sad day we lost one of the best Pro 10 drivers on the west coast to the DARK SIDE...lol

I would not sell your 10L2.5, you might regret it later. I know I do, I even tried to buy it back but he would not sell it.

At least you do have the option of carpet during winter when you get tired of offroad.

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

And as sad it is to say, about the same here in Colorado. I have not nor will I sell my stuff off right now, but our club has not run a single outdoor race and the weekly racing at HT in Fort Collins, and Westminster (west Denver) is 10% of what it was a few years ago. And most are running the short corse trucks.

So, I travel for nitro onroad racing and maybe do some carpet racing this winter.

ozzy-crawl

iTrader: (14)

hi guys looking for some advice.
going to convert my crc genx le to pro 10. there is no racing for pan of any sort were i live so will run against a couple of 1/8 electrics.(just for fun)
going to use the crc extension kit but need some advice on springs, even running the sophia gt body i was wearing the pod on the front edge.
track is low-med grip, motor is lrp 10.5 with xtreme esc running dynamic timing on 2s
so some advice on front,centre,side springs would be much appreciated

ozzy

ghiro

i wouldn' t extend a rear end of a CRC , it is known that once added the extension hubs the effect on the axle is the same applied to a lever so il will snap, it happened to me and many others, the axle wont last so long before it breakes. With a 10.5T the car will be close to be fast but certainly not enough to play with 1/8 scale gas cars, better get a 6 Delta or some thing lower than 4.T Star motor , it will be fun enough to give 1/8th some hard times. CRC's aren't any good wit low wind motors though, these cars were built for WGT classes, 17T with 2S for indoor track or 13.5 1S stuff, the issue won't be the coil springs but the car itself. You better get something more appropriate and durable if you want to get some serious performance.

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

I'm sorry to disagree with you Ghiro, but on the Heemstede track there are several guys running 10.5 with power program in their CRCs. The laptimes may be a bit slower than the top 1/8th guys, but not that much.
And the rear axles do hold out just fine.

The extensions may not be the ideal solution, but they work - at least for 10.5.
I've also raced with a guy who put a Mamba max7700 in a wide CRC without any problems.

ghiro

ProTen , it's my own experience on Italian and Swiss 1:8-1:5 scale tracks. I'm not the only CRC owner who decided to sale the car for this particular issue . It happened to me with a Novak light 7.5T motor and at least other 3 guys i know personally and several other i've talkad about it in another European Forum ( Automodelli.it) . It doesn't really matter what happen in a single track while there are many other tracks with many more people with different track/driving experiences that shares the same problem.

2wdrive

-nitro fuel line on outside of piston to act as a stopper. Try let the chassis stop at 2-2,5mm above the asphalt.

-Roughly 12lbs spring with TC shock
-40-45wt oil in centershock
-White side springs
-Red front springs, put some lube on the kingpins.
-10.000cst in sidetubes
-A front brace between the castor blocks makes the car steer more direct and makes the the suspension a little more crashproof
-35shore backtires
-38-40sh front tires.

This should give you a base setting. It depends on traction wich direction you want to go.


About the extentions, they work with a 10.5t. That said, in an engineering point of view i do think that a wide pod is better. You want those bearings as far as possible towards the wheels to support the axle as good as possible.

The extentions are never a 100% fit and there will always be a marging of precision between the normal hubs and the extentions. I am sure with a 4.5t or 6t delta those little margins will be HUGE.

Kees snapped his second axle last week after a short period of time. He snapped his axle right in the middle. It was due to an accident but still it shows that the extentions do exert more force on the axle. At this moment i only have seen snapped axles in the crc cars.

In the 3,5 years i drive my L2 i never snapped an axle and i was in some severe accidents where i was T-boned, hit in the back, flew and rolled over several times and crashed etc etc. I am still using the same axle. I did snap 2 t-bars during these 3,5 years so maybe my t-bar is some kind of crumple zone protecting the other parts.

With that said, there are now 3 crc's with extentions and they do work good in our 10.5t 2s class.

In my oppinion extentions are a little similar with a Lada or Trabant. They work... getting you to A and B but there are better options availlable when you want to have more durability or crashresistance (all in good fun)

ozzy-crawl

iTrader: (14)

thanks guys
i take it then its more of a crash breakage rather than a power issue if i run 10.5.
most of the time i have run the car by its self or with a mates 1/8 on the track and had zero breakage so far, i dont expect to keep up with his 1/8 but its worth a try
the only decent crashes i have had are due to getting airborne, but i am very surprised how tough the crc car is.

2wd, thank you for the setup much appreciated.

couple more things, track width at front ?
track has a lot of 180 corners.
and which body proline p905b or the blitz p908

ozzy-crawl

iTrader: (14)

pic of track (ignore red, blue lines there for tc)

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

That track looks really big. Nice!
Go for the Protofrom P905B. With the Blitz Lola you'll be standing still on the straight because of the drag it produces.

2wdrive

Track width at front as wide as possible that will fit under the body.

Between the two choices indeed go for the Peugeot 905b High Downforce. Put side flaps on at the back. You have to make some of your own as it isn't included with the peugeot but it really helps a lot. (you can use the back part that you cut out of the body)

On large tracks i prefer medium downforce bodies like the Peugeot 905b Medium Downforce (not made anymore) or the Nissan P35. In my opinion they seem to be more ballanced on high speed tracks.

ozzy-crawl

iTrader: (14)

thanks guys much appreciated.
i used to run a 5000mah lipo but decided to lighten it up awhile back with a 3300mah pack, much better handling but flipping due to corvette c6 body
the sophia eliminated most of that,only time now it flips is threw a S set if i clip the curb at around 60klmh or catch a leaf.
track is very smooth no bumps, but a bit slippery so the 905b HD maybe just the ticket.
the track is very nice but been hardly used the last 2 years due to bans on nitro/gas cars. a local group is trying to regenerate electric interest and do some maintenance.