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Old 05-15-2007, 01:29 PM   #121
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Thanks for the ideas, guys. Great thread.
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Old 05-15-2007, 08:11 PM   #122
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I've gone through the first three tanks and I couldn't get the motor to run above about 115 deg. I had to lean it back out periodically and blip the throttle to get it to heat back up.

Kinda frustrated.

A I, did you happen to temp your motor when running it in that vid?
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Old 05-15-2007, 09:00 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlamMan
I've gone through the first three tanks and I couldn't get the motor to run above about 115 deg. I had to lean it back out periodically and blip the throttle to get it to heat back up.

Kinda frustrated.

A I, did you happen to temp your motor when running it in that vid?
Na never did , never do. I just run the fuel through it , my motors run great so. I dont think it matters that much. I just be sure to lean it out little by little and run it in rich on the track till its tuned.
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Old 05-16-2007, 02:23 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlamMan
I've gone through the first three tanks and I couldn't get the motor to run above about 115 deg. I had to lean it back out periodically and blip the throttle to get it to heat back up.

Kinda frustrated.

A I, did you happen to temp your motor when running it in that vid?
Instead of blipping the throttle, while at WOT, I open the tank lid for 1 second, so the tank looses pressure which automatically leans the engine, you will see that the RPM goes up then, and more heat builds up in the engine.....
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Old 05-16-2007, 03:18 AM   #125
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IMO, an engine stand is a better way to break in an engine when using a WOT break-in method. You have a controlled load, the engine has no problems getting up to temp and you don't have to worry about putting a strain on any drive train parts. Yes, you do have to buy the stand (and possibly the prop starter, depending how comfortable you are using the chicken stick method), but it just seems to make life easier.

Just my 2 cents..
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Old 05-16-2007, 03:32 AM   #126
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Rainer, the first couple of tanks are run in the car, not on the track..... I normally tighten my clutch, so there is nothing spinning, exept for the flywheel...
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Old 05-16-2007, 03:52 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
Rainer, the first couple of tanks are run in the car, not on the track..... I normally tighten my clutch, so there is nothing spinning, exept for the flywheel...
Understood.

Last two engines I broke in (TZ & STI) were 5 tanks WOT on the stand, 5 rich tanks on the track and then I started race tuning it. I'm very happy with the results. Prior to that, I broke in a CRF and you don't use a WOT break-in method for that engine.
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Old 07-03-2007, 04:17 PM   #128
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Fellas I have an OS TG .12 going to break in, I was going to use the method by Josh here but wondering if anyone has any experience with the ABL liners used by these OS engines and if this method of break in would be still suitable for these liners. The ABL liner is supposed to break in easier or quicker so they say so not sure if running the 8 tanks would be to much.
Thanks

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Old 07-15-2007, 10:38 PM   #129
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I love the smell of nitro in the morning
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Old 07-16-2007, 08:06 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc5tuner View Post
I love the smell of nitro in the morning
Amen to that!

-

Just do cyruls method it works, i was a skeptic but wanted to try it for so long. me and a mate built up a new sirio evo2 from old parts he had for a practice engine and broke it in using the WOT method...

we started to brake the motor in at 8am and ran it all day until about 5pm, only off the track top up reciever pack and it still has awesome pinch to turn over without a plug... should make some good power and be a good club/practice engine when it frees up some more
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Old 07-17-2007, 04:31 AM   #131
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a few things to do to keep the temperature up:

1). hairdryer
2). aluminum foil
3). mill half the fins off a spare head
4). if you have a sedan with a diff- grab a rear wheels to put some more load on the engine.

don't run the thing at 100F..... keep it at least 160F+.
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Old 08-13-2007, 02:39 PM   #132
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I don't see much mention as to how rich the bottom end must be during break in. Should it be close to race tune and just open up the top?

Thanks
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Old 08-13-2007, 03:03 PM   #133
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Leave the bottom end needle alone. Just open the top end needle... you won't be on idle except for when topping off the tank.

This method works really well on Nova based engines. I just try to keep the temps up- as stated above.

When have run through the 8th tank start taking a look at the bottom needle. There's no use mucking with the bottom needle till you get the top end close to where you'll be running at race tune.
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Old 08-14-2007, 03:36 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdelong View Post
Leave the bottom end needle alone. Just open the top end needle... you won't be on idle except for when topping off the tank.

This method works really well on Nova based engines. I just try to keep the temps up- as stated above.

When have run through the 8th tank start taking a look at the bottom needle. There's no use mucking with the bottom needle till you get the top end close to where you'll be running at race tune.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-05-2008, 12:03 PM   #135
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Default Little clarification

Ok...

Read the thread I understand how and why on the wot breakin.

However I am breaking in the engine in next week and it is still [email protected]@#@ cold in Connecticut.

Heat gun get it to about 160f and start as listed for the cryul wot method.

Correct?
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