I don't know if anybody posted about this already, but I'm wondering if there is anything that should be done when putting a car up for longer periods of time (around 6 or 7 months.) Instructions that came with the car didnt specify anything but should I run wd-40 through it every couple weeks to keep moisture out?

My friend always do this :

1. Clean external body with carburator sprays and smear it with after run oil.
2. Open the rear backplate cover.
3. Pour nitro fuel into crankcase to wash out gunk and dirt particles. Rotate the flywheel to up and down the piston. (Pour it from backplate and wash it twice).
4. Lube the crankshaft, bearing, piston, conrod and carburator with after run oil.
5. Close the backplate cover and put the engine inside plastic bag.

Done.

Just advice: No WD40 and Marvel Mystery Oil. Use Tornado or Novarossi After Run Oil.

Is after run oil anything generic you can buy from somewhere at half the price like most other items, other then getting it in a small bottle and paying for full bottle that filled 50 of them?

I have not yet used after run oil, but think it might be a good idea my engine an internals all appear to be in good shape compared to new condition but anything you can do to prolong the life of your engine will save you dollars i spose.

1) take it apart fully
2) Clean all parts
3) Oil all parts
4) Put them into the Ziploc
5) When you need to run it next time,just assemble the engine. You can check all parts at the same time.

Some other brands of after run oils have detergent or solvent which is not friendly to silicone and rubber. For examples, Marvel Mystery Oil is not suggested for JP engines because some people have reported missing the orange / red seal inside crankshaft.

If you could find generic after run oils that is silicone and rubber friendly is okay, let me know.

Some says After Run Oil is actually Automatic Transmission Oil for real cars ?? IF that is true, is this product qualified ?



Here is the quote from Slick50 annual ATF treatment :

As transmission fluid ages the fluid components oxidize, gradually losing the ability to lubricate and protect your transmission as well as it did when the fluid was new. Oxidation and fluid breakdown are the single largest causes of transmission problems. Oxidation occurs when heat breaks down the chemical components of the fluid. This process not only can make the components less active, but often can create compounds like acids and sludge that can be harmful to your transmission. Slick 50® Automatic Transmission Treatment replenishes your ATF with vital chemical compounds to help prevent wear, oxidation and seal deterioration.

Helps protect transmission life

Helps prevent seal leaks

Helps curb corrosion, rust and sludge buildup

try PB B'laster... works great and has everything you need to protect your engine and keep it running strong.

http://www.pbblaster.com/

well, make sure it keeps clean...and if you ahve a chance, run it so it a tank or so...so it doenst mess up the engine...just liek the real cars

I am trying to rescue a friend's car after years of storage. It's a Novarossi 12cc engine from the Mugen MTX2. What's the best way to remove this engine sludge? Is it possible?

Disassemble the entire engine as much as possible. Get an old slow cooker that is not used for food any longer. Fill the cooker with the engine parts and regular antifreeze. Straight antifreeze, not the premixed kind. Set the temp to low and let the parts soak overnight at a minimum, heavy build up can take 2-3 days to loosen up.

After soaking, rinse all parts with water and a brush. Most of the buildup will come off with brush and water. For any left over buildup, use a brush and denatured alcohol and lots of elbow power to scrub. Be sure to rinse all parts with alcohol after cleaning to remove all leftover water and antifreeze. It will need new bearings at this point so replace those before inspecting all parts and reassembly. First tank run like break in to settle the parts back into position and heat cycle.

Thank you for the help

The coolant in a crock pot method is fantastic but I want to add two things.
One, don't put the head in there, I've had the anodizing fade or come off on a couple engines.
Two, make sure to set to LOW temp. If you use high, you may find when you remove the engine, the aluminum is dark gray, corroded, ruined.. my crock pot sits at 200ish on low, and it always works.