10 litres in my case, changed front bearing, no more problem leaking, by the way rear bearing lasts no more than 12-15 litres,

Yes as opposed to not using after run oil.

and thanks for the input Seisick :)

O.S. TZ
 

Is the O.S. TZ capable of doing well at a large National level event? I have the 5 port, and have been considering the TZ or possibly the Sirio.

Has anyone tried minor modifications?

Apparently JP is doing O.S. TZ motors now. Don't know when its going to be for sale but it was said to be balistic (check the JP engines thread).

Try searching for Motorman's posts. He has been using the TZ to mod and has good things to say about the results.

broke in my 5 port tz today WOT
 

hey guys
broke in my engine tonight at wot

was pretty scared at first but then i realised the idea behind it all
the glow plug battery wasnt fully charged so this also gave me the chance to heat cycle as well

during the whole break in process the engine wouldnt get any hotter than about 65-70 degrees celsius

cant wait to tune this engine now at the track
i used josh cyrules method, i just have 2 more tanks to drive around in at the track to tune it to race speed

this might been asked before, but can 18tz(p) carburator use onto 12tz?

hey guys
how much run time do you guys get from a full tank using the 5 port in a on road car ?

i ask because today i was getting just over 5 minutes to a tank, engine temp was 104 degrees after the race

thanks

I was wondering what is some of normal temps you have with this motor? I know mine is 220-240F. Feed back from O.S.12TZ owners is appreicated. ;) :cool:

Yup I love these things :)

Ivan that is the normal window I usually see.

tuning problems
 

hey guys
im having a few problems keeping these engines tuned
i have both the 3 port and now the 5 port


how are your needle settings set ? i mean have you had to screw them in much from standard settings?

im using 16%nitro fuel with 10%oil and an os6 plug
should i be removing one of the shims for the lower percent nitro ?

thank you for any tuning help
i used to have an os tr r spec that never needed so much tuning between race to race

How much fuel do you have through each??? What kind for break procedure did you use??? These motors are just as easy to tune as the old TR's... Check your motors compression, pull the plug out and check it's compression... If it's gone, get a new piston and sleeve set... If compression is ok, and you've checked for air leaks ie... exhaust, fuel tubing, carb leaks ect... If everything is ok, then go back to factory settings on both the high and the low speed needles.. Once the low speed needle is set, leave it alone and just tune the high speed needle... The OS is very easy to tune and holds it's tune very well... Remember, the TZ settings are not like a Sirio or Nova, so if someone tired to tune it like it's a Sirio or Nova, You'll have major problems... Go back to the base factory settings... Put the low speed needle at stock setting as per manuel/OS website and you might have to lean it one or two ticks at the most... Not knowing the temp in your area and the quailty of fuel you're using, it's hard to tune your motor without seeing it... This is just to get you into the ball park... Now, you should be rich still because your high speed needle is at the base/stock setting as well... Just lean the high speed needle one hour/tick at a time to get your settings right while the car is being run on the track and not in the pits... Once the motor is set, you're good to go... If your motor keeps having problems after that... You'll have to take the motor out and take it to your lhs or to someone that can inspect it more closely... As you can see, it's easy to get it right and alot can make it wrong... And without seeing the motor... But this should help get it right... PS... Don't remove any of the shims... Keep everything stock.. Run 20% nitro fuel at least, so go get some new fresh fuel and while you're at it, get some new fresh plugs and fuel tubing as well... Keep that air filter clean too... Goodluck.

RC_Alan

RC_Alan thank you heaps for that

i used the josh cyrul break in procedure for both the engines. the 3 port has had about 2 gallons thru it
and the 5 port is still new, break in procedure (10 tanks) then about 1 litre of fuel.

the 5 port has been running temps about 110 degrees celsius
only in one heat someone tuned it and reached 130 degrees but was quickly shut off.

Both engines still have a tight pinch with the glow plug out so the compression is still tight. Here in australia we only use 16%nitro for events so i like to keep running the same fuel all time round. when you say 1 or 2 ticks do u mean 1/8s or full turns ? yesterday after racing i set it back to factory settings and i seam to get the engine going, but i dont know how fast it will be till i see it at the track again this weekend.

the factory settings i have are flush low end needle and 1 3/4 turns on high speed. the mid needle has never been touched.

THOSE TEMPS ARE IN THE BALLPARK. HOW IS IT RUNNING ? YOU SHOULD HAVE PLENTY OF SMOKE AND VERY GOOD POWER. IF YOUR TOP END IS A LITTLE SHORT,LEAN IT 1/8 TURN AND RICHEN YOUR BOTTOM THE SAME AMOUNT. DONT TUNE BY TEMP ONLY THATS THE MISTAKE MOST DO.SOME DAYS 200F IS PERFECT,AND SOMETIMES 260F.IT ALL DEPENDS ON WEATHER.

Thanks,
Bisides that the motor runs great. :tire: :tire: :tire: :cool: