That procedure is followed for the engine pre-run? which is the correct way to do this?

Normally the instructions that come with the engine are too vague or are not practiced by experiences racers.

This method comes from ORCAN, is easy and works great! Just be sure to change the conrod right after break in!

http://www.rc-car-news.de/pnews_mag/...?shownews=2967

Which are your glow plug that using on these engines? I have a glow plugs OS RP6, Are valids for this engine?

OS 6 works as does the OS 5.. Best for this engine is the nova 7F. Glow plugs age so don't buy old stock. Newer is better.

You can run the Orcan engines quite hot, at the Euros I was advised to tune them to 160C. This wasn't an issue at all, it was pretty hot though (40C).
For myself I tune them to 110C plus outside temp. So when it's only 10C outside I run it on 120C. It also depends on what kind of meter you use to temp the engine, the measurements can vary as much as 20C between different meters!.

Either run the C5TGF or C7TGH. The 5 for qualifying and the 7 for races.
Other plugs could work as well, like OS and Sirio but Orcan advises the use of Nova plugs.

Thank you DS Motorsport. I use for meter the temp Exergen DX501;

A few days ago I bought the combo you suggested in this post, I have no doubt if C or S version right now, I do not know if it's the SPEC 2013 or not, I know it's the MH version I I have been in contact with Alexander Hagberg and advised me to use the new exhaust (made by HIPEX) but do not know where I can buy it.

I would need to know the specific version, I think it is C but I'm not entirely sure

Thank you for your attention, I hope you can tell me more about the performance of these engines on track and I have no reference about these

Engine Romance
 

After 3 great races and 1.5 gallons the engine is tested -- I love this GT3-C.

I showed before pics and here are pics now. I have only changed the conrod. It is running better than ever. Engine love!

I see some detonation.. :p:sneaky:

:lol:,run too hot

Just carbon from some bad fuel I had. Not detonation.

Don't be jealous of my engine now!

How will these engines? I expect you to write a comment, I recently was talking to Bertram Kessler and com Alexander Hagberg and I have said that the new exhaust is what is giving better results, I just bought it and I came soon.

Mr Kessler also told me some settings for the engine to run a little more, and I practice in an area at sea level and I have to make a specific adjustment that Mr Kessler told me the engine combustion chamber

im getting mine back from MH he did maintenance for me i have the S version

I have Orcan GT3 C MH version

which pipe do you mean?and what shim setting did they recoment?

I have bought the exhaust Orcan OA1911, recommended by Bertram Kessler and Alexander Hagberg. The exhaust was still have not received it.

I currently run on a track that is at sea level and I have told Bertram that the engine was not running all that should run, Bertram then gave me some advice, I said the following:

You must put out to 0.10 and put in 0.15 it give from Nova Rossi
Or If You Have inside 0.30 you put out and give in 2x 0.10 and 1x 0.15 in end You have not You have 0.38 and 0.33 so you can close the top speed.

I was also recommended to use the glow plug Novarossi C7TGF

I absolutely love the C version.

I run at sea level with the 7F nova plug and shim .30 to .35 and 16% nitro fuel.

Can be tricky to tune and need to change the conrod frequently but the engine has power and revs everywhere.

What brand car and gearing are you using?

What are your clutch settings?

Do you run a lean or rich low end needle setting? How many turns out is your low speed needle?

Maybe I/we can help.

Sam

I am using xray nt1 2013, and I'm using gear in first gear 17 and 60, and in second gear 22 and 54.

In the clutch using the clutch reverse of x ray with hard spring of xray, spring tightening to 0.8 mm.

The clutch hueco also 0.8mm, and the end play I adjust until practically have nothing to play and free to move the bell.I use setscrews in the flyweights and yellow clutch shoe.


Certainly in the document preparation engine engine washers MH brings me that I 0.33mm

Adjustment needles are not precisely tell as I take the motor will always 130 or 140 degrees

1. Your gearing sounds fine. Same as I use on most tracks (unless really large).

2. Try loosening the clutch spring to 0.4 to 0.5. When I use the xray hard spring or washer spring I find 0.8 to be too much. Gap and endplay sound fine.

3. I was asking about the low end tuning "turns in" because after Betram watched how I drive in Bangkok at the pre-worlds and worlds, he turned my low speed needle in all the way in and then backed it out only 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. He then adjusted the high speed (richer) and made the idle high.

4. Temps of 130 to 140 C could be too high, too lean. When Alex Hagberg was here in Singapore last month and I was his mechanic--he was using Runner Time 16% and using my exergen temp gun (over the glow plug but not pushing down the bodyshell as Betram suggests for a more consistent temp measurement) Alex's engine was running 104C to 114C only. We had very high humidity and the air temp was 34C+. He TQ'd the race.

When I use VP Fuel or Byron my engine seems just nice around 115 to 120C (after 10 to 20 mins of racing). With Tornado a bit hotter at 125C.

I know comparing temps is not the best way because ther are many variables, but maybe these temps give you some extra information and reference points.

At the Pre-Worlds in Bangkok, after a 1 hour A main I saw Betram measure Dirk Wishnewski's engine temp at 120C at the end of the race using an exergen temp gun over the glow plug hole of the body, not pushing the body down.

Don't give up. The engine can be hard to tune but one you get it right it is very, very powerful.

Sam

you will love it

Wou fantastic Reply :D.

The working temperature of the engine told me Alexander Hagberg, and I said that about 120 or 140 degrees.

I got in touch with Bertram Kessler because in my circuit the Novarossi Keep on passing me on the straight and those engines were running more than my Orcan.

I have not yet tested what Kessler tells me shims combustion chamber, I have to remove a shim 0.10mm and put 0.15 mm shim, that's what Kessler said in the email snippet that I have stuck to the post above.

I have to try the new exhaust and what he says of the shims combustion chamber and I have to see if the engine runs more.

how much shims bring your in the combustion chamber, exactly?

Thanks

You just have to try things. Try what Bertram recommends. Try my points if you want.

Getting passed on a long straight can be for many reasons: gearing, two speed timing, tire diameter, speed in and out of corner, racing line, clutch, tuning

Ask the old guys or fast guys at your track to drive your car and give you feedback.

There are guys who will pass you regardless of what engine they are using. They have a special something many of us are searching for when we buy engines or upgrade equipment. Usually they can be super aggressive but smooth in every corner like Alex Hagberg. I wish I could buy that.

Good luck. Enjoy.

i would actually use 17-23 59-53 give you a little more rpm on straight away but would still check shift point and clutch setting as you guys stated

I have a question for HHH.

Your standard engine had few washers in the combustion chamber?

And if you've modified you based?

I use both the S and C version and both are modified by MH (Michael Heinrichs). You can tell if modified by the engraving on the side of the engine case and a number engraved on the sleeve and crank. Look at the pervious pics I posted on this thread to see.

I run .30 which is how comes, .35 and .40 mm shims depending on the fuel and how lean I am going to run or push the engine.

0.40 is good for a lean top end for fuel economy or if using 25% nitro.

0.35 is good to feel safe (avoid detonating) when you are not sure if your fuel is good (control fuel race) or you are having glow plug problems or just "feel" your piston might be hitting the button head.

If my home track and fuel and I am comfortable and happy with performance then I use 0.30.

In the S I always use 0.35 because I had detonation using 0.30

well time for break-in :D

ohh, :D who may have other

Someone may put the Orcan GT3C MH exploded, I do not find on the website of orcan.

Thanks

GT3C and GT3S Exploded view pics
 

Pics of the exploded views attached. The only difference is the ceramic main bearing but of course the modifications will be different. I think they sell the MH only as a whole engine and if you want to mix and match parts, you have to send him your engine like Soloartist 702 did.

The past weekend I had run and I could try the new exhaust Orcan, the engine runs more and spend less, it shows much the new exhaust, the subject of washers even I did not dare to try to put 0.35 Bertram said Kessler as soon I will have to try it.

I have won the race

Congratulations. Well done! A simple change too.

My favorite ORCAN pipe for big and medium tracks is the efra 2663 by Mielke but sold under the ORCAN and Xceed Masterfix brands. Great power everywhere!

good job motor is very good :D

www.rc-netshop.dk
 

Hi everybody,

We finally got our redesigned shop up and running :-)...

Still many products to come, we got a lot that's not yet inserted.

But at least the shop is running now.

Take a look: www.rc-netshop.dk

Great to see you site back up... all the best for 2014

I did not think it is possible to make a better .12 than the 2013 spec GT3C, but if "bling" is anything to go by, this new RS3 will be.

I am amazed at the amount of work MH has put into this engine.

This RS3 is supposed to spool up faster and rev higher.

RS3

Rs3

Pic 3

Pic 4

Pic 5

Pic 6