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Old 08-25-2006, 08:08 PM   #586
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slow-mtx(but fast savage), ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, im so glad when i read that its ok now.
as always.. as me & art_I said, 95% its the glow igniter. thats why, when im serious in racing(sometimes not ), i always give my pitman 2 or 3 glow igniters to try.

yes as ryan said, little after-run oil & no no no pipe style stopping. i just use my shoe at the flywheel. best for me.
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Old 08-26-2006, 05:17 AM   #587
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Yeah i am happy its all good now. Raced tonight and the engine was great, just the truck needs some work in the handling department, but that will come when the new LCG chassis arrive and get installed.
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Old 08-26-2006, 06:53 AM   #588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfc_tech
i just use my shoe at the flywheel. best for me.
That's what I do for my 1/8th buggy - so that would apply to Truggies too.

On the Savage and other MT's where there is no flywheel access, you just have to block the exhaust. The engine should be fine to start next time - primed and ready to start, so long as you have good glo and your mixtures aren't overly rich. Should the engine become loaded up and flooded (for whatever reason), it's just a case of removing the glo plug, turn the engine over a few times to clear the cylinder, replace the plug - and you're good to go again.
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Old 08-26-2006, 08:07 PM   #589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
Yeah i am happy its all good now. Raced tonight and the engine was great, just the truck needs some work in the handling department, but that will come when the new LCG chassis arrive and get installed.
yea the handling department... why always this department the problem one.
cant wait to see yer LCG.

That's what I do for my 1/8th buggy - so that would apply to Truggies too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Horatio
On the Savage and other MT's where there is no flywheel access, you just have to block the exhaust. The engine should be fine to start next time - primed and ready to start, so long as you have good glo and your mixtures aren't overly rich. Should the engine become loaded up and flooded (for whatever reason), it's just a case of removing the glo plug, turn the engine over a few times to clear the cylinder, replace the plug - and you're good to go again.
great info. glad u can help me here.
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Old 08-26-2006, 09:35 PM   #590
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for the savage they sell a ez shut down system for like 7 bucks from hpi and it works great, it goes to the flywheel and stops it from spinning.
but either way i never had problems shutting from the pipe.
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Old 08-27-2006, 04:31 AM   #591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozpall
for the savage they sell a ez shut down system for like 7 bucks from hpi and it works great, it goes to the flywheel and stops it from spinning.
but either way i never had problems shutting from the pipe.
Cool! I've never seen one, but what a good idea!
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Old 08-27-2006, 05:34 PM   #592
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Guys,


Im on a little BB conversion with my Tamiya TNX PRO, currently running an OS .18TZ engine ...

The thing is that im between the .21B, .21E and .28M engine ... almost decided which to mount but im very preocupied about the power difference between the .21B and .28M engines, i dont want to destroy my diffs and transmission during racing, i use my MT "JUST" for racing ...

thanks for any help guys ...
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Old 08-27-2006, 08:41 PM   #593
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Tabushi... i have both 21B & D28M.
for yer TNX, i advice get the 21B pullstart. The 28M is too strong for yer TNX. the torque is super crazy... imagine savage backflip!

my truggy is powered by the 28M... and its overpowered. im thinking of using my 21B (Turbo plug, non pullstart) to replace it. the 21B got enough power & rpm to propel the truggy.
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Old 08-27-2006, 09:31 PM   #594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfc_tech
Tabushi... i have both 21B & D28M.
for yer TNX, i advice get the 21B pullstart. The 28M is too strong for yer TNX. the torque is super crazy... imagine savage backflip!

my truggy is powered by the 28M... and its overpowered. im thinking of using my 21B (Turbo plug, non pullstart) to replace it. the 21B got enough power & rpm to propel the truggy.



THANKS JFC !! ...

.21B Pullstart ? it does exist ?
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Old 08-27-2006, 09:44 PM   #595
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from the image of racernine website & as the engine manual too ... the pullstart is available. same as the d28m.
i specifically asked for non one.
u lucky, u started with the Team engine. i cant imagine driving the team engine. even at 21B, i already smiling ear to ear. the torque is there... my X1CR(FTE hybrid) almost wheelie on trigger. cool engine.
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Old 08-27-2006, 09:51 PM   #596
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to make the B motor a pullstart you would have to install a .28 crank shaft
backplate, and oneway, along with a pullstart.
you could do the same to your team motor and run it on your tnx
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Old 08-27-2006, 09:52 PM   #597
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i use this nova long body plug with success.
well, not yet racing success but u know what im saying. im using Hot Stuff 25% with 1 bronze shim & silver shim.
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STS .28 pull-start engine-novalongbody.jpg  
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Old 08-27-2006, 10:56 PM   #598
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i did my engine run-in like this. Josh Cyrul style.

WOT style!

The piston/sleeve still tight and even push the sleeve up after 12 tanks. compression unbelievable.

but remember, 1st tank do the heat-cycle style.. as per dino/manual mentioned.

thanks to Art_I for the info.
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Old 08-29-2006, 10:58 AM   #599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horatio
Cool! I've never seen one, but what a good idea!
from hpi website:



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Old 08-29-2006, 07:24 PM   #600
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nice ozpall... and can u post it again at this HPI savage thread . thanks.
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