I got mine yesterday, it looks HUGGGE, its awesome, I can't wait till run this baby.
mine came with no glow plug either but no big deal.

Never had a motor come with a glow-plug. Where do you guys get motors that come with one?

Also every pull-start motor Ive used has given me troubles with the pull-start. From .12's to larger , I always find myself pulling them apart , cleaning them and reassembling. Its kinda just how it goes. Why I now am glad I have a starter box.

I also know someone who builds monster truck starter boxes for t-maxx's , Im sure I could have a chat with him on other vehicles to produce it for.

No more pull-string scars on your hand , thats for sure. As well I have my starter box setup with power-panel and glow-starter attachment. Which has adjustable power. So if motor isnt starting , I turn the dial and the strength of the heat goes up and motor will almost always fire after that.

Great for breaking-in motors and starting troublesome motors. Saves the hands for sure and frustration.

Also those new STS .28 Motors look great! Seems they come with the one-piece heatsink. Looks very nice!

My O.S. 18tz, old Novamega, and maybe my Orion .28 come with glow plug , Am I just lucky?


I never have trouble with pull start. I had several pull start engine before non of them break from new until the engine lost all its compression. but many people change their pull start more often then everyweek,

the owner of the LHS I was hang out (now close to switch job) is a master of pull start he teach me a lot on how to pull, basically it is more about speed thatn how much you pull out. do it fast but never reach the total length of the pull string. to acieve that, you need to know how long the string you have on your pull start and make sure you don't reach that limit.
tuned the engien right and have a healthy glow plug with appropriate temp is important too ( I tend to use hotter plug)
the trick of pull start is "FAST but NOT FAR"
hope that help


regard the sts .28, I wish it is torbo plug, I hate copper shim of standard plug

Yeah there are some golden rules on pull-starts. Never pull them all way out. I try to only pull half-way out. Use quick wrist flicks , dont use your whole arm.

I also try more than one way to pull-start a motor. I vary all things , speed , frequency. I sometimes do a slow and steady pull and at compression a quicker flick , after a bunch of hard pulls if its not firing , then speed up the slow and so forth. You gotta listen to the motor. Saves your arm.

Also if you use a handheld glow-start. Make sure its always fresh battery. Rechargables help save money and can always be peaked for first start of the day. Otherwise I find handheld glow-starters a big problem. I switched to the 1.5V Hobby Battery. Its a life saver, lasted me a couple of months and is pretty inexspensive. You can start motors all day , break them in easier and have less frustration if you use this style. I reccomend these 100% over regular hand held.



This will eliminate one of the main causes for a motor not starting, which in return will equal less use and abuse in most cases on the pull-start. When your frustrated , the pull-start takes the abuse and is probably when your going to break it by pulling it to hard or fast.

If the one-way starts slipping, it's usually indicative of an O-ring failure in the backplate. Once oil starts leaking through, the one-way will soon foul up again with oil. This a common problem with rotostart/pullstart style back plates.

The solution is to de-grease the one way and replace the O-ring while you're at it.

I knew there was a reason to come to this forum. You guys seem to know what you are talking about. I like to hear all of the advice on the new motors. Soon I will be installing the NEW STS .28 on my SAVAGE. I cant wait, it is like waiting on christmas. I recently purchased new hardned steel spur gear and clutch bell for preperation of the new motor to arrive. I also went from a 2 peice clutch to a 3 peice clutch. Also I was told to tighten the clutch as tight as possible for the sts due to it ripping the clutch pad right out. Any advise on more preperation of this BEAST of a engine will be apprechated. Thanks Guys For the help and the Advise. I look forward to learning more from you guys.

GREAT CHOICE!!!
gear up...i mean use bigger CB with the 47 spur. somewhere around 18 CB. it willy at a touch!!!
As i always say ... the STS .28, High Torgue at Low RPM!!!
the clutch..as tight as possible... if slips...then u can smell the burn out slipper pad and but careful when jumping and landing on full throttle....

Guys,
the one way bearing is inside the crankcase on the .28 spraying stuff into the pullcord hole will just get your cord wet. to clean the one way you will need to remove the pullstart and back plate.
try to store your truck with the nose down so fuel and oil will run out of the one way and use some afterrun oil when your done for the day. Also try not to use fuels with high oil content. 12% or less is best.

Nova makes an aftermarket head for the sts.28 with the new one piece design. When we started racing ours we modified the outer edge of the head button and used a Nova head for the xtm24.7 motor as there was nonw available. They do help control temps when running under extreme conditions.
and look good as well. although I love the look of the new one peice sts head

I wasnt aware of that. Good to know. Otherwise it does work for most pull-starts Ive dealt with

Thanks for the advise I hope that the now motor will be here today. I went with the hardned steel spur gears and I believe that they was 16/48. I hope the bell gear isint to low. Oh well, I will just ride around on a wheelie. I also am designing a fan to blow on the motor at all times. The fan I am installing will be on a bracket that I made run off of a pulley system from the motor to the fan. The louisiana air is always hot so I figured that I might keep it a little cooler this way. Have any of you ever tried a pulley fan on your truck? I hope that it works.

Also is there any way to add photos of my machine on here. I would like to show you guys my truck and the set up I have. Mabey if you see the truck set up you can give me more advise. I do not race it, I just like to keep the neighbors mad I live in the country and Evintually I would like to build me a track behind my archery shop. I love the monster trucks. I jump everything in sight and move it if it gets in the way. This is the 2nd truck that I have owned and it makes an ass out of the t-maxx. Sorry maxx guys.. The savage is a brutal machine. later on I would like to turn everything on my truck to aluminum. My wife is ready to kill me now so I will have to do it slowley. But mabey my buddy Mike can help me out in the future with my mods.

Again thanks for the help guys and keep it comeing. I have no idea what most of your abbrevations are so I have to figure that out. such as the upper and lower carb settings.. What the heck is that?? And the shims?? What is that?? or CB?? In time I will learn, just be patient with me For I am like a little kid in a candy store.

upper carb settings or the HSN (high speed needle) used to tune your motor from about 1/4 throttle on up to full throttle the needle right next to the fuel inlet on your carb. always tune this needle first

Lower carb settings or the LSN(low speed needle) used to tune the engine for idle and take off power so when you punch it from a stand still it takes off instead of bogging down. located in the carb barrell (the piece that slides back and forth) always tune this needle last


shims are whats under cooling head (think of them as head gaskets like on a car)

cb = clutch bell

Thanks ryan for the help again. I was hopeing for the motor to come in today (saturday) but no motor. So now I will have to wait till the week day and not have time to set it up. When it rains it poors around here. IT is supposed to rain all next week, Mabey I can set it up in my shop. I look forward to getting the new motor...

So i'm about to start breaking in my new 28, the instruction say that for 20% nitro I should run 3mm shims, my engine came with a silver one and cooper shim already installed, the cooper one is thinner than the silver one. is that 3mm or more? less? should i just leave it alone?
can someone please hell me here please.

also I wanted to say thanks to racernine for the help. those guys are pretty good at helping people out.
I got that SH pipe.

thanks

Silver shim is 3mm and copper is 1mm you can run 30% with these shims. if you want you can take the copper out after breakin to run 20%.

STS keeps changing what comes with the motors. first ones came with all three shims for a total of 6mm then they changed to just the sliver 3mm now they put .4mm worth of shims in . I think they readded the shim to make breakin easier on you and the pullstart.