yeaah...koyak at usual place...a lot of free play its either the conrod bushing or the cranksahft pin

...do not use heat to take the inner bearing out...my fren did it and now the bearing also 'koyak'....there is a 'bearing puller' for the job...
---u can use the heat method for taking out bearing if u r sure it is damage..if not stay away from that.

detonation is what kills the conrod. If the compressed mixture fires too early then the explosion creates the downforce before the piston reaches TDC thus pushing down on the piston and rod while inertia keeps the piston coming up the bore.

bro .. the best combination is to use BOTH heat + bearing puller.

bearing puller will still introduce stress onto the bearing inner race. but there is less stress required when the crankcase is heated up.

at the end of the day ... i think u shouldn't remove the inner bearing under ANY circumstances unless to replace it. that's what i do anyway

so...is there any ways/tips to prevent/control this kind of "detonation" from happening....

shims

There are several factors that can contribute to detonation.
Head clearance. percentage nitro used, plug, ambient temperature and altitude.

On cool days 50 to 75F almost all engines will perform and put out lots of HP. On those kind of days detonation with stock shimming and 30% nitro usually is not an issue.

On hot days (track temps at 100F or more) detonation may become more of a problem. Head shims will usually fix the problem, but many guys will also drop nitro content to 25% and even 20% and this will also alleviate detonation. If you run lower nitro you will need to lean out the motor more and retune at the track.

Changing to a colder plug will also help with detonation as well.

hey guys

just wante dto ask if anyone here has the os tr r spec?
my fuel economy is awesome, i mean i can run a 5 min heat and still have just over half a tank left, the engine is still running quite rich with heaps of smoke out the exhaust.

seeing that i have so much fuel to play with, do you think it would be a good idea to bore out the crank shaft for more power ??

thanks
John

Were can I find a company still selling the O.S TR engine for offroad (AD2)?

hi....need some advice... after 2-3 litres my tr start havin problem....so i found out the internal bearing already busted....now waiting for a new one...at the same time i check freeplay between the conrod & c/shaft pin...and there is a bit...anyway to be safe i got myself a new c/rod...after puttiing it on the c/shaft the freeplay feels the same like the old c/rod....is the freeplay normal or the c/shaft pin also need replacement..??? just to be sure..thanks...just for info the piston sleeve/compression is still strong...

If you have installed a new conrod and there is still "excessive" free play, then chances are the crank pin is worn as well.

thanks mr. bundy....anyway do u or anyone here know the c/shaft pin diameter measurement...just to be 2x sure...thanks....

guys, is there a rear bearing remover tool? I need to remove the rear bearing from my mt12. as for the tr, just got the turbo inner head, and optional hyper head, has the same performance as the r spec or the 5 ports turbo.
but my brand new tz 3 port will arrive tomorrow finally, the piston and sleeve for the tz cost 40 and the conrod 20. its a bargain considering that the rear bearing for the tr at tower costs 60!

Well got my tr p T back running. BUTTT I can't go past 75percent throttle. Itll just shut off after about 3/4 throttle. I can't for the life of me figure out whats worng. It is running rich on the top end because alot of fuel is coming out of the pipe. The bottom end seems Ok. I think its either a air leak or somethings up with the 3rd needle.

if u mean the inner bearing, yes there is...i have been goin to my fren's if i need to remove those bearing...but i didn't notice the brand or manufacturer...sorry..

jjust make sure your conrod and rear bearing r ok...anything else won't be much of a problem...good luck...