Posted previously by CDELONG

my personal tuning guide-


This assumes you are getting fuel to the carb and have a good glow plug and ignitor!!

Always start with the top end when tuning!! Top end adjusment affect the bottom end settings, so never adjust the low end needle first.

FOR TOP END TESTING (you may need a friend to help with this one):

1). Pinch test: Hold the vehicle off the ground and hold the throttle steady at about mid to 3/4 throttle- then pinch the fuel line (midway between the carb and tank) for ONE second. The engine RPM's should increase slightly and return to normal without stalling.

If it stalls- too lean
if RPM's do not increase- too rich

2). Spit test- OK, spit (water) boils at 212F, so spitting on the head is a rudimenatry way of checking temp.

If the spit evaporates away in 2-3 seconds you are golden!!

If it boils off immediately- I means sizzles in an instant- you are most likely too lean (HOT)- richen it up a little.

If it just sits there and does nothing, you are too rich- lean it out a little.

3). Another way is to monitor temps with a temp gun. A temp gun is the best investment you'll make in Nitro RC'ing. At $75 dollars it may allow you to save your engine someday. It will always come in hand tuning.

4). The last and hardest method is plug reading.

- Plug wet and shiny- playing it safe- probably blubbers at full throttle.
- Plug dry and shiny- getting there- if it runs strong, leave it here!!
- Plug has a dull sanded look and not pitted at all- just right!!
- Plug has a highly sanded look and is pitted and possibly distorted- STOP- replace the plug and richen it up. The element may break off and damage the engine!!

Either way, the engine should emit a good amount of smoke while "pinning" the throttle. Keep temps in check if you are a beginner- I'd say less than 220F for racers new to nitro. Ask someone who has a temp gun to check for you if you don't have one.


LOW END TESTING

1). Pinch Test- after the engine is warm and the top end is set- bring the vehicle to an idle. Pinch the fuel line midway between the tank and carb and see how long it takes for the engine to stall.

2-3 seconds is optimal
less than 2-3 seconds- too lean
more than 2-3 seconds- too rich


2). Temperature tuning the low end:

If you have a temp gun- get the engine warm and check the temp. Let's say it's 200F. let the car idle after a good hard run and see if the temp goes up or down while idling. If the idle temp increases- it's too lean on the low end needle- richen it up a little. If the idle temp decreases- it's too rich- lean it out.

Do this until temp remains roughly the same at idle when you pull it in after a good hard run.

3). Idle speed testing

Bring the engine to an idle after a good hard run-

- if the idle creeps up and keeps increasing- it's too lean
- if the idle decreases and stalls- it's probaly too rich and loading up the plug.


Either way you go about it- the engine should be able to idle for 30 seconds without loading up when you nail it.

GOOD LUCK and happy tuning!!

Corey

nice tip...i'll try it out...:D

Rapid Roy

This was good tip thanks......

I think I might have this problem...... as my engine idling fluctuates when the car comes to idle after a run.

The other possilibity could be due to the movement of the xhaust joint tube movement due to crashes..... but will try and find out.

cheers
ZiiZo

guys: would engine tuning change if i change to a bigger head??? like the one by zac/kawahara head??? also, what's the effect of putting more shims between the glow plug and the piston and sleeve??? thanks:D

bigger head - i would say yes.. cause u can lean your hsn

adding shims - yes too...imo anyway:D

guys: what benefit do i get if i add shims between the engine head and piston/sleeve??? thanks:D

not sure how true this is but i was told... add shims when still new maybe helps compression to last a bit longer:sneaky: :confused: :D

after awhile when compression decreases u reduce the shims;)

You only add shims if you are experiencing pre-detonation. It will lower the compression and retard combustion.

so you decrease the power the engine generates if you add shims??? did i get you right???

yes you loose compression

i see...so it's like creating a false idea of loose compression but actually the engine still has good compression.... thanks:D

rd logics
 

just got the rd logics turbo 2pipe....can't wait to see how it performs....

Re: rd logics
 

pics 1.:D ;)

:D ;) pics 2

OS TR12 Efra version
 

Is the TR with the stainless steel heat sink quicker that the normally blue ones? Is it worth the $25.00 extra?

Re: OS TR12 Efra version
 

You mean the E-spec? YES it is considerably faster, even more so than OS claims. Fast enough your lap times will probably decrease!! LOL J/K. But very serious about the power.

Bottom line about engine break-in guys. I posted on this many pages back- you can search for the details, but a fresh engine DOES NOT need tank after tank of idle speed with a rich setting!! All you have to do is run the motor conservatively on the tune around the track the same way you would race- part throttle, sometimes WOT, etc. Just don't run but 2-4 minutes at a time. Let the motor cool then run it again. After 3-4 heat cycles start sneaking up on a good tune and roll.

HEAR this- idling these motors super rich over and over and over is killing the piston to cylinder wall seal!!! You are washing the freaking cylinder wall down with super rich settings!!

OS 12 R-Spec and E-Spec
 

Hey guys someone told me that the OS 12TR E Spec and R Spec have the same case as the 12TR (P) T????? Please give me your opinion so i cna prove him wrong :)

Re: Re: OS TR12 Efra version
 

thanks:D

Re: OS 12 R-Spec and E-Spec
 

Hope you didn't bet on it. OS part# 21451010 is the crankcase for all three.

Re: OS TR12 Efra version
 

I don't know of any OS engine with a stainless steel heat sink.

O.S. .12 TR (P)-T R-Spec
 

I think danjoy means this engine. O.S. .12 TR (P)-T R-Spec

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/o/osmg2007.jpg

Re: Re: OS 12 R-Spec and E-Spec
 

Crap.... so that means the only diffrence between the (P) T and the E/R-Spec is the head and 3 port piston and cylinder.

I wonder if the E/R-Spec is as fast or faster than the (P) T :D :nod: there so hard to bloody find any suggested shops etc..

Kondo Customs
 

Hi

Has anyone tried the KONDO custom TR - T engines (Modded OS TR T) or the Piston /Sleeve sets along with the modded crankshafts....... ?? This upgrade costs around 160$

if yess, does it really give it more power!! only the person who has burnt some rubber with this or seen one should know ?

ZiiZO

got the same pipe ?? so how does it perform with tr

Re: Re: OS TR12 Efra version
 

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=4449

Check out the link

i have only tried it for 1 tank full and haven't notice any difference yet(just want to hear the sound only) .....maybe cause haven't tune to race pace yet....once i've race it i'll update the results;) :D

Re: Re: Re: OS TR12 Efra version
 

that link didnt work but i used this one
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=4449

I spoke to an OS engine rep about pipe choices on the .12 TR. he recomended trying the os 1040 pipe with the 1000m manifold. I havent got around to it yet but worth a try to anyone looking for a good pipe combo.

any of these will do !:D
http://www.skylinercracing.com/store/c_19.htm

Re: Re: Re: OS TR12 Efra version
 

Do you mean this one? Its aluminum. A stainless steel one would be rather heavy.

Any idea where to buy them??

Tower Hobbies

here
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...NGINES&S3=&S4=

I looked there right after I posted on here. Guess I should have looked there first. doh Not used to seeing the latest stuff on tower.

Re: Re: Re: Re: OS TR12 Efra version
 

My mistake then, Yep thats the one, just got mine delivered today aswell. Anyone tried this motor yet, Can it compete with Novas and Sirios?

Re: Kondo Customs
 

anyone used this ?

Kondo custom
 

They are made by a shop called www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp or should i say customized
i have yet to visit there shop but im not so sure what they do to there engines.

Re: Kondo custom
 

So its there home product !! lol no wonder no one has used it ......... i guess.

but i would wnat to know how modded there engines are..

Pls. do go there and let us know what the mods he has on those pistons and are they worht it ?

Ok i can give u a rought translation of what they do.
Well they port the crankshaft that all i can get out of it.

http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/ go there and click on KONDO...
then they have all the engines. Maybe ill get a 12TR Turbo cause its no where near as expensive as the other mod engines and i will do a review on it. But it might sound strange cause this will be my first proffessional standards engine so it should kick but.
And its only 274 USD which is not bad. but some go up to 721$

PS it says this does not comply with JMRCA rules. JMRCA is the japan racing series.
hope this helps.

Thanks... I had been there.. and checked out the pistons on that site thats why i had those qs. posted earlier. You can get custom engines from around 280$ onwards for the 12 sizes good custom engine mods could be around 350 - 450$