Mc-59
 

Does any one run the McCoy MC-59 with the 12TR?

Is it to hot of a plug?

Re: Mc-59
 

if you do you have to add another washer for the glow plug since is a bit longer than the OS plug!

mc59 is a hot plug

the OS A3 ran great on my OS TR with 30% fuel

tr r spec hard to tune ?
 

hello

trying to get my r spec to have a good tune its hard for some reason....

i have the top end running awesome and the car temps are around the 110degrees celsius mark, however the problem im having seams to be in the low end..

i can start the car and warm it up on the bench then it normally stalls within about 10 seconds and i need to restart it thewn it runs sweet

one of the guys at the track said it seams to be loading up on fuel ??

can i get some help please ?
thanks

hi..how about trying a new plug....enjoy

Hi guys,

I don't really have a problem but a slight worry about my engine temps. I have an OS 12 TR(P)T 5port.

I run it as rich as possible, any richer and it dies the moment I throttle it. But the temp is still around ~135celcius.(taken at glow plug area) Ambient temp is around 33celcius. It runs fine and has decent power. I can lean it somemore coz I tried it before and there's still some power to be tapped.

But I'm worried about the engine temp. Anyone out there with this engine can give me some readings on their engine temp?

I'm also contemplating putting on a larger head. Any company out there makes a large head that fits the OS?

Cheers...

Try this http://www.rcaddict.com.au/product_i...roducts_id/126

My os engine did the same thing i eventually sold it

os engines love to run hot

try a hot plug like a p6

Wouldn't a hot plug make it run hotter? Or is it the other way round?:confused:

I'm already using the No. 6 plug. Running 25% fuel with around 0.5mm clearance.

Comments?

from my experience hotter plugs allow you to run richer and cold plugs allow you to run leaner

oil percentage ?? type of oils ?
 

hello

i just wanted to know what percentage oils you guys are running in your tr (mine is a r spec tr) ??

i am currently using 15% nitro with 18% castor oil
i notice alot of brown carbon like build up inside my egine on top of the ppiston and out side the car

thanks
john

Re: oil percentage ?? type of oils ?
 

what brand fuel?

its just a brand of fuel that the hobby stores in australia sell

no major brand like trinity or so

Make sure it's not air-plane fuel.

hey guys
i did some maths
and the fuel has 200mls to the litre of oil

in a litre that means it has 20% oil!! crap
im gonna make something useful from it and pour it over the weads in the driveway.

Are they still making the TR engine..?

factory setting
 

Hi guys,

Recently, I got a used O.S .12TR 5ports (blue head) engine. It didn't come with any instruction so can anyone pm me the factory setting of this engine? Thank you.

gordon

I know it's been discontinued at Tower & they are a major OS distributer

OS has them on hteir website

Re: factory setting
 

my base setting for it is....

-hsn...1 1/2 turn open from close
lsn- 1 1/2 - 2 turn close from flush.

and mid needle setting - 1 turn from flush...:) hope thats help..:D

Thank you guys! :)

os tr r spec fuel efficiency!
 

hey guys

just wanted to comment on the os tr r specs fuel efficiency

i cant believe after running a 5 min heat that i still have half a tank of fuel in my car

the engine still comes back pretty cool at about 80degrees celsius thats truly amazing. my mates collari 12 is lucky to finish the 5 min heat with a drop of fuel left.

However i did notice some fuel/dirt stuck under the low end needle so ive taken apart the carb and sealed it up with carb sealant to try stop that leak.

Hehehe- I like your username!!

Bearing freeplay
 

I have a question on the front bearing.
The one on my engine has about 0.5mm of axial freeplay on it. I noticed it when I stripped the engine to clean it. Only done 1 gallon through it. Now I'm a bit puzzled. Why does the bearing get damaged so quickly. As far as I know, there should be negligible axial load on the bearings.

Is it still ok to run the engine with that freeplay? Or will it tear up the con rod and crankshaft?

Any advice is much appreciated.

Cheers...

Re: Bearing freeplay
 

i myself just gone through almost a gallon..and already the conrod need to be replace.....as for the bearing i don't see anything...

but if u have doubts u better change the bearing... ;)

Re: Re: Bearing freeplay
 

Con rod koyak after 1 gallon???
How come...?

I think changing conrod is easier than changing bearing. It's a pain to remove and fit. Have to figue out how to heat up the crank case without damaging the other inner bearing...:rolleyes:

Re: Re: Re: Bearing freeplay
 

:nod: yeaah...koyak at usual place...a lot of free play its either the conrod bushing or the cranksahft pin :cry: :cry:

...do not use heat to take the inner bearing out...my fren did it and now the bearing also 'koyak'....there is a 'bearing puller' for the job...
---u can use the heat method for taking out bearing if u r sure it is damage..if not stay away from that.

Re: Re: Bearing freeplay
 

detonation is what kills the conrod. If the compressed mixture fires too early then the explosion creates the downforce before the piston reaches TDC thus pushing down on the piston and rod while inertia keeps the piston coming up the bore.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Bearing freeplay
 

bro .. the best combination is to use BOTH heat + bearing puller.

bearing puller will still introduce stress onto the bearing inner race. but there is less stress required when the crankcase is heated up.

at the end of the day ... i think u shouldn't remove the inner bearing under ANY circumstances unless to replace it. that's what i do anyway :lol:

Re: Re: Re: conrod
 

so...is there any ways/tips to prevent/control this kind of "detonation" from happening.... :rolleyes: :D

shims

Detonation
 

There are several factors that can contribute to detonation.
Head clearance. percentage nitro used, plug, ambient temperature and altitude.

On cool days 50 to 75F almost all engines will perform and put out lots of HP. On those kind of days detonation with stock shimming and 30% nitro usually is not an issue.

On hot days (track temps at 100F or more) detonation may become more of a problem. Head shims will usually fix the problem, but many guys will also drop nitro content to 25% and even 20% and this will also alleviate detonation. If you run lower nitro you will need to lean out the motor more and retune at the track.

Changing to a colder plug will also help with detonation as well.

tr r spec fuel economoy
 

hey guys

just wante dto ask if anyone here has the os tr r spec?
my fuel economy is awesome, i mean i can run a 5 min heat and still have just over half a tank left, the engine is still running quite rich with heaps of smoke out the exhaust.

seeing that i have so much fuel to play with, do you think it would be a good idea to bore out the crank shaft for more power ??

thanks
John

Were can I find a company still selling the O.S TR engine for offroad (AD2)?

os-tr busted...
 

hi....need some advice... after 2-3 litres my tr start havin problem....so i found out the internal bearing already busted....now waiting for a new one...at the same time i check freeplay between the conrod & c/shaft pin...and there is a bit...anyway to be safe i got myself a new c/rod...after puttiing it on the c/shaft the freeplay feels the same like the old c/rod....is the freeplay normal or the c/shaft pin also need replacement..??? just to be sure..thanks...just for info the piston sleeve/compression is still strong...

If you have installed a new conrod and there is still "excessive" free play, then chances are the crank pin is worn as well. :nod:

thanks mr. bundy....anyway do u or anyone here know the c/shaft pin diameter measurement...just to be 2x sure...thanks.... :blush:

guys, is there a rear bearing remover tool? I need to remove the rear bearing from my mt12. as for the tr, just got the turbo inner head, and optional hyper head, has the same performance as the r spec or the 5 ports turbo.
but my brand new tz 3 port will arrive tomorrow finally, the piston and sleeve for the tz cost 40 and the conrod 20. its a bargain considering that the rear bearing for the tr at tower costs 60!

HMMMM
 

Well got my tr p T back running. BUTTT I can't go past 75percent throttle. Itll just shut off after about 3/4 throttle. I can't for the life of me figure out whats worng. It is running rich on the top end because alot of fuel is coming out of the pipe. The bottom end seems Ok. I think its either a air leak or somethings up with the 3rd needle.

if u mean the inner bearing, yes there is...i have been goin to my fren's if i need to remove those bearing...but i didn't notice the brand or manufacturer...sorry.. :)

jjust make sure your conrod and rear bearing r ok...anything else won't be much of a problem...good luck... :nod: