yea i've tried P8 and noticed much more top end and maybe 10 deg F cooler. but the bottom end seems not that responsive so i tried P7 inwhich i prefer. i think i might have to play around with my gears as well. maybe as i lean it, its hitting top speed quickly and staying there for a few seconds which might be the reason for being abit hot.

And Luis im getting a guy at my track to do the mod hes been in this hobby for 10 years. and hes motors go very very well! and very very reliable as well.

which is faster???
 

which is faster between the OSTR turbo version and the OSTR r spec???

I just wanted to post how my R-spec ran, It is modified to the 2005 specs by TQ Motors. It has work done to the crank, and sleeve, the exhaust port timing was changed and the intake ports improved.

I ran it at the last series race for the Southwest series here in Texas over the weekend.

It had as much if not more power than all of the other motors in the A-main. I was getting over 7 1/2 minutes of run time on the track and it was temping in the 210-215 range. The idle was rock solid and it started easily every time.

I never got a chance to run the tank all the way dry on a run and have a hard time believing how good the fuel economy was. I showed the tank to one of the Palmaris drivers after a 5 minute qualifier and it was still 1/2 full!! The track was large and my chassis was not working really well but the car was good enough to make the A-mian against some very fast drivers.

All I can say is that I am very happy with the motor and the work that TQ did on it. I can't wait to see how it compares to Ron Atomics motors, I know of one driver in the A that was running an X12 and I backed off many times on the straight to avoid running him down. I have no idea what condition his motor was in but he was also pretty fast.


I could not be happier with my choice.

Good luck
Cody

:) :) :) :)

glad to here you like your os! Mine has been a rock solid performer for me. At the end of sundays race my os tr started to get tired out temps were still fine but it is just tired and compression has dropped and blowby can be heard. In no way is this a complaint as i have run this engine hard for around 20 liters. I am rebuilding it this week. Initial tear down showed that the bearings are in good shape and only p/s needs to be redone. I am very happy with how this motor has performed against the italian mills and for the price is definately a great choice.

ffr how much did your tq mod cost?

thanks.

your os/tr carburator has this rubber seal that goes into the cranjcase.

i have heard a few guys having problem with it either leaks or damage somehow.

is this normal...:tire: :cool:

did you have to change your con-rod within the 20 ltrs?
and may i ask what temps are you running?

Yeah i changed the conrod 2 times (8 bucks for a conrod and they are almost disposable). My temps where ranging from 110-125 depending on track and conditions. It started to warp speed at the higher temps and never sounded lean but it makes me a bit nervous to get to close to the lean overheat. I always have this battle in my head of: man the engine sounds good and is very fast but maybe it is too lean and i back it off a bit. The plugs always looked good though. I guess i should just get rid of my temp gun and trust plug reading and sound tuning.

os/pipe combi
 

what is the usual pipe combi u guys use with the os tr....thanks:)

I had used the kyosho 2 piece pipe that came with my fw-05. I dont have that car anymore so i can messure the stinger. but i think it was 5.2? After i had it ported and tuned i was using a zac flanged pipe that was 7.0mm. The best performance was the kyosho, but they are so fragile!

I'm using the OS T1032 with the kyosho header on my FW05 R...

beautiful!

Where can i find a crankshaft collet to fit my new OS 12TR R-Spec engine.......?

Where are you guys buying your E- Spec engines? Are there any online shops that sell them?

You can use the collet that comes with your kit:)

12TR R-Spec engine discontinued
 

Does anyone know the story on this engine being discontinued by O.S.?

My friend put one in his NTC3 this summer and it's a stellar performer. I was planning on buying one.

Re: 12TR R-Spec engine discontinued
 

as of today it is showing discontinued in tower hobbies
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGPF1&P=ML

Re: Re: 12TR R-Spec engine discontinued
 

is now back in stock!

and now discontinued again...

I placed my order for one yesterday.

Have there been problems with this engine, or is it just not selling well?

can't wait to hear this answer.... maybe they decided to actually make a NEW engine rather than gussy up the tr and try to pass it off as new.......

...or maybe they just want to repackage the motor and raise the price!

It's a shame really because the motor is decent. I'd equate it to a MT-12 but more bottom end! So long as I run the motor above 240deg. it has good power. I ran it a whole day at 250 deg. 80 minutes of racing. C, B and A main. The temp was consistent and no sign of detonation. It isn't quite a Novarossi killer on those bigger tracks, but it sure is an awesome small track motor. Granted my motor has been worked on, I wouldn't hesitate to run it stock so long as the track isn't too big. I lost some gas milage with the modification but it's still awesome compared to the Novarossis. I got 7minutes with it stock and now I get 5:50 with the mods.

I also noticed something very weird. The compression got better after 2 gallons. I've never had this happen to me before. I am absolutely sure the compression increased since the last time I ran it. I'm not exactly sure why but it's very interesting. Anyone have insight as to why?

I also reccomend the new VR 12 pipe from Skyline Racing. I just got the pipe and it really exploits all the power from this motor. I was running a RD pipe, a Yokomo pipe and a Rex pipe on this motor and so far the Skyline pipe has been the best.

Hi may i ask what mods did you get done to your motor? just wondering if i should get both my crank and sleeve modded or just the sleeve.

OS TR .12 R spec
 

If any of you guys are having problems getting this eng, PM me I have two new ones which I dont plan on using.

I had both the sleeve and crank worked on. I'll see if I can get pics loaded up.

Re: OS TR .12 R spec
 

how much?and do you have paypal?

has anyone heard that sirio made a piston and sleeve for the ostr engine. is this true?? if so, how much will this kind of piston and sleeve cost.

very early on sirio made an aac 5 port sleeve for it, but i am 99% sure it was discontinued...

ok, ive had my tr turbo for about a gallon of fuel and have been very dissapointed in its performance. I went to the track today and discovered the main front bearing has a leak, and a bad one, if i pressurize the engine fuel just pours out the bearing. Im not sure how long its been leaking as i didnt think to check it untill i realized today i had fuel under the engine. as far as performace i knew something was wrong today because it had a constant idle problem and was getting real hot when rich. so the leak explains it. before the leak problem tho the engine seemed to have very little bottom end power, but ok top end power, and no matter how much tuning was done to it it always seemed to run very rich and didnt really perform well runing at 220 degrees. When leaned out too 240ish it seemed to be fine on the top end but not on the bottom and was still rich. So i need to call os and send the engine in to be fixed, but i heard somebody saying they werent doing warranty for this engine because it was discontinued, is this true?

i think os does not cover warraty for the ostr turbo engine mainly because it's a high performance engine. what i do know is that they carry warranty for the bashing type of engines like the os cv series. by the way, it's the first time i have heard about a poorly performing os engine. all the os engines i have bought are in very good condition. in fact, i have an os hyper cv engine is use for bashing around and still in very good condition considering its 3 years old. no parts have been changed yet...:)

ive owned os's in the past, thats wy i a surprised i am having such difficulty. I mean no os engine ive had has been very competitive but i just wanted something that would be decent and reliable, and i guess the tr isnt that motor. btw im going to try and send my engine in, ill post here what they have to say.

ok bro...let me know what os has to say about your engine...:D

guys i've countered my heat problem with lowering the body as much as i could! too the point it scraps the ground when running with very low foam tyres. it was a unexpecting find as i did this as an experiment as i witnessed all the other pro drivers at my club having their bodies very extremely low. now the window hole covers most of the bottom part of my engine as well now. and now im running 230-240F at the speed i use to run at 270...

thanks for the tip bro...:)

guys...can a novarossi heat sink be fitted on to an OS tr....:D

nah it cant i was hopping the same as well when i first got my OS TR with that small blue head

if you can try and get a 11 fin carlson head off rcmart

actually i just got the os tr...haven't broken it yet... is it ok to use novarossi turbo inline pipe with the os...? thanks:D

...i've just starting to break in my motor...

but it seems whenever i take off the glow heater it stall....

i've ask somebody and he told me that with o.s. the 1st 1 or 2 tanks with the glow heater on till the tank empty...is this quite true...:confused: after that only possible to break in without the glow heater on???

no thats not true i ran in my os tr without the glow plug warmer on. "I THINK" the bottom end is to rich, try and lean the bottom end screw 1/8th of a turn till it has a better or more stable idle.

also what plug are you using? OS A3 would be ideal to run it in with as its a hot plug.

also with the glow plug warmer still on how does it idle? is the rpm very low? if so maybe just bump up the idle speed a little try turnning the idle screw inwards 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn

let us all know how you go :)

fyi i'm meant the os tr turbo and it came with the p6 plug....anyway i'll try to lean out the low needle and see how it goes....till later..thanks:D

wait before you lean the bottom end us how it idles with the glow plug warmer left on. im also thinking it could be that the idle is set to low. leaning off any engine during break in should be avoided only should it be done if it is set toooooo rich. as idealy you want a rich setting to properly lube your brand spanking new engine ;)

and the P6 turbo plug is a good plug to break it in with.

i've succesfully got the engine to idle without the glow heater on...i did lean 1/4 turn the low needle....

just fyi i am trying out the method used by josh cyrul that i read somewhere in this forum.
b4 this with my previous 2 engine which till now is still race capable, i use the idling break in method .

with this new method ( which i am still half way through) its opposite of the idling method. instead...after u warm up the engine a bit u can start with wot/wide open throttle for the 1st too the 4th tank with rich main needle setting....
up to this point what i've found out with the rich settings the engine can barely scream cause the extra load of fuel coming in...
signing off 4 now...after i finished the whole process i'll give an update on this break in .:D

breakin in updates:D

so i've finished total 8 tanks on the bench....

now left only 2 more tanks (cause according to the method another 2 tanks should be done on the track)

maybe this weekend i'll have time to finished the whole process.
:D hope it doesn't rain:nod: :D