LRP nitro motors
#226
9 turns, damn!
Doesn't the needle fall out?
I have been running 6.75 turns, like LRP recommends, but I'll try your suggestion.
Doesn't the needle fall out?
I have been running 6.75 turns, like LRP recommends, but I'll try your suggestion.
Originally Posted by Fabian K
Ok, Let me see if can help you sorry the bad english ;
I have race LRP .12 engines since the first one ,later sepc2 an spec3 now,
of course your head shims need to be correct by the % percentage ok
this engines likes and works perfectly with the botton en needle too rich, try to use aroud 9 turns opened dont worry its too much ok but works,
later this maybe you will never need to touch/tune again on the booton end
needle , to check if the botton end is fine , try this; run the car same way you run on the race, fastest you can around 3 laps , come to the pit, stop the car, and lift the front end of the chassis your car you will put the car almost on vertical the engine this time will want to rich a lot and want to die , here is the best point, if not you will need to rich a little bit more the low end needle, if the engine die before this the low end is too rich, this tip works because the car on vertical position makes the fuel inside of the tank goes easy to the carburator and make the engine rich alone,
Of course before you tune the botton end is better you tune the main needle , go to the track with main needle rich, your second speed maybe does not shift or shitf too late , start to lean 1/8 of turn each time until your engine show you a very good power so later this stop to lean or just go moore 1/8 maximum , later this go to tune the botton end like i told above,
The LRP engines does not work same procedure like nova based or anothers to have a good power on botton you need to work too rich on botton needle
Dont be afraid to rich a lot the botton end the more you rich better will be until the point of the engine die when stops
Try,
I hope will work for you
I have race LRP .12 engines since the first one ,later sepc2 an spec3 now,
of course your head shims need to be correct by the % percentage ok
this engines likes and works perfectly with the botton en needle too rich, try to use aroud 9 turns opened dont worry its too much ok but works,
later this maybe you will never need to touch/tune again on the booton end
needle , to check if the botton end is fine , try this; run the car same way you run on the race, fastest you can around 3 laps , come to the pit, stop the car, and lift the front end of the chassis your car you will put the car almost on vertical the engine this time will want to rich a lot and want to die , here is the best point, if not you will need to rich a little bit more the low end needle, if the engine die before this the low end is too rich, this tip works because the car on vertical position makes the fuel inside of the tank goes easy to the carburator and make the engine rich alone,
Of course before you tune the botton end is better you tune the main needle , go to the track with main needle rich, your second speed maybe does not shift or shitf too late , start to lean 1/8 of turn each time until your engine show you a very good power so later this stop to lean or just go moore 1/8 maximum , later this go to tune the botton end like i told above,
The LRP engines does not work same procedure like nova based or anothers to have a good power on botton you need to work too rich on botton needle
Dont be afraid to rich a lot the botton end the more you rich better will be until the point of the engine die when stops
Try,
I hope will work for you
#227
LRP settings
Guys can you tell me what is the default settings after breakin for the SPEC 3
thx
thx
#228
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
I just had my first race with the spec 3 this engine scoots.I could keep pace with JB's and novarossi down the back straight. I had a little trouble with the engine loading up with fuel during the technical section of the track I just leaned out the low end a little at a time. By the second qual it was like a rocket temps ran around 225-235. It was really cool at the track.I had to switch to a med plug.The temps hovered around the 60's all day took almost three laps to get the engine up to temp. all in all a great little mill
#229
Tech Champion
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Sp Racer
...so the saga continues
the top of the piston is very dark ( obviously hot) , yet the engine still runs cool
Damn strange...
the top of the piston is very dark ( obviously hot) , yet the engine still runs cool
Damn strange...
#230
Tech Initiate
Originally Posted by stefan
9 turns, damn!
Doesn't the needle fall out?
I have been running 6.75 turns, like LRP recommends, but I'll try your suggestion.
Doesn't the needle fall out?
I have been running 6.75 turns, like LRP recommends, but I'll try your suggestion.
Yes, dont worry about too rich botton end needle , yes the needle goes outside too far dont worry no problem, i know LRP says 6,75 turns ou, but never works to me , the engine after just a few laps had problems with power on botton end due this settings , so i solved and worked very good on botton end needle very very very rich , same on my SPEC , SPEC 2 ......., and tune/lean the main needle until you reach a very good top speed thats all i do .
#231
Tech Initiate
Originally Posted by Sp Racer
...so the saga continues
Fabian K - check your PM
I have tried richening up the bottom as you suggested, the problem is when I run it so rich, after straight when the excess rich mix clears out, the engine wants to run on, if I lower the idle speed then it loads up and wants to cut out.
Even though I ran the engine like this, after 10 min - lean bog, the top of the piston is very dark ( obviously hot) , yet the engine still runs cool
Damn strange...
Fabian K - check your PM
I have tried richening up the bottom as you suggested, the problem is when I run it so rich, after straight when the excess rich mix clears out, the engine wants to run on, if I lower the idle speed then it loads up and wants to cut out.
Even though I ran the engine like this, after 10 min - lean bog, the top of the piston is very dark ( obviously hot) , yet the engine still runs cool
Damn strange...
Sp racer;
I answer your pm add my msn; [email protected]
#233
OS plugs fit and work great
Guys how do you resent you reset your main needle and mid needle, do you all back them in all the way and start your turns from there ???
Guys how do you resent you reset your main needle and mid needle, do you all back them in all the way and start your turns from there ???
#234
Originally Posted by jelayne
OS plugs fit and work great
Guys how do you resent you reset your main needle and mid needle, do you all back them in all the way and start your turns from there ???
Guys how do you resent you reset your main needle and mid needle, do you all back them in all the way and start your turns from there ???
get one of each and look at the conical (bottom of the plug), if you look at it and measure it you will see what i mean.
#235
about the carby q.
generally wind the needle all the way in until it stops, and count from # turns out.
so if the setting was say 5 turns on the high speed: wind high speed all the way in until it stops. then count 5 complete turns out from closed.
hope this helps
generally wind the needle all the way in until it stops, and count from # turns out.
so if the setting was say 5 turns on the high speed: wind high speed all the way in until it stops. then count 5 complete turns out from closed.
hope this helps
#237
Sorry for the late reply, thanks Dynamite
#238
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Finally starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel!
A big thank you to everyone that tried to help - I had the mighty Spec 3 absolutely flying last weekend at a local club meet.
It seems the problems I was having were maybe a combination of clutch setting, engine tune and pipe ! ( no wonder I struggled!)
Still, I am chasing that setup where the engine idles nice and doesn't load up excessively...at the moment , it will idle for 10 sec and load up to the point that it stalls ( but still idles long enough for a pit stop) maybe just a matter of sneaking up on the low end needle a bit at a time until it's just right
The current setup on my engine is...
LRP #7 plug ( sidewinder 16% race blend) 0.45 head shims, 1.5mm clutch nut pre-load (RRR)
Max power conical header with 2602 pipe...bottom end needle was approx 7 turns out (AZRI, this pipe combo , a lot more power and RPM than sirio 2611)
I found that gearing down first gear gave the motor some real punch out of the corners and It seems like it can pull a taller 2nd gear..
A big thank you to everyone that tried to help - I had the mighty Spec 3 absolutely flying last weekend at a local club meet.
It seems the problems I was having were maybe a combination of clutch setting, engine tune and pipe ! ( no wonder I struggled!)
Still, I am chasing that setup where the engine idles nice and doesn't load up excessively...at the moment , it will idle for 10 sec and load up to the point that it stalls ( but still idles long enough for a pit stop) maybe just a matter of sneaking up on the low end needle a bit at a time until it's just right
The current setup on my engine is...
LRP #7 plug ( sidewinder 16% race blend) 0.45 head shims, 1.5mm clutch nut pre-load (RRR)
Max power conical header with 2602 pipe...bottom end needle was approx 7 turns out (AZRI, this pipe combo , a lot more power and RPM than sirio 2611)
I found that gearing down first gear gave the motor some real punch out of the corners and It seems like it can pull a taller 2nd gear..
#239
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
mega 2607 pipe and header
I recently mounted this pipe(Mega-2607) to my MTX-4. But the shape of the header positions my pipe too far away from the chassis. My pipe and springs take a beating being so far away from the chassis. Is there a different syle header that keeps the pipe closer to the chassis.
#240
Quick question,
I'm in the market for a new engine and saw the spec 2 at 150$. (i'm on a budget).
I'm using an sts d3r and it's quite dead now after 2 seasons. How does the spec 2 compare to the sts d3r? If not comparable to a d3r, what other engine would you compare it to?
Thanks
I'm in the market for a new engine and saw the spec 2 at 150$. (i'm on a budget).
I'm using an sts d3r and it's quite dead now after 2 seasons. How does the spec 2 compare to the sts d3r? If not comparable to a d3r, what other engine would you compare it to?
Thanks