From the performance the engines are not bad. Remember for example Dirk S. or Reto K. in Heemstede or Luxemburg. There were fast with that. I just heard that there are not really durable.

Hi Luis!

I meet u in sarawak Malaysia 2004 anttending Asean cup race.Very happy to hear u using LRP engine.The spec 3 tunning u have to monitor on the low end needle first.Start the engine,make it idle about 20 sec and punch full throttle.If the engine stall than lean it,u do this until u have good throttle punch but not lean until your low end BOG.Second step on the high end needle u tune it neautral on the starter box and u fine tune it on the track ( to be safe).When u already reach the tunning on the straight check the temperature should be around 110celcius max 115celcius.If u use 16% fuel please check your headshims.In malaysia wheather we run 16% fuel with headshim 0.4 to 0.45 and the temp 115c works better.Hope this explaination will help u.Feel free to email me at [email protected]k u for using LRP PRODUCTS.

LRP LEAKING
 

I have a LRP spec.21 Team motor no mods and go's extremely well. It has had about 2 gallons through it. I have noticed a major oil leak from the front bearing and since the engine idle is very temperamental. Two other guys that run this motor have also developed the same problem after 1 gallon... Are these engines renowned for this problem of is it just coincidental???? P.s the engine still has good pinch/compression.

Thanks
Rob

SPec3 Trottle handle
 

Can some direct me on changing the orientation of the LRP's trottle arm to lay down more horizontal as oppose to its stock possition which is a near 80 degrees
???

thanks

How did you mod it? No matter how tight I make mine it still spits fuel all over my breaks - fantastic to cornering

Im not familiar with working on LRP nitro engines but look on the bottom of the arm and there 'should' be a grub screw

thanks hav_lova it worked

I don't understand. I read on this board that Novarossi plugs don't fit the z12r spec III engine but I called AE/lrp tech support they said it shouldn't matter as long as they have same temp range.

No dont use Nova plug, if you look closely on the button head the plug is not flash with it, try sirio plug it does flash with button head

the problem with most places who have phone support is that is just there job to answer the phone on product questions etc the question you asked most likely mean nothing to them unless they are a racer themselves and use that particular motor.

chances are the person you talked to doesnt even race r/c cars.

Ok guys, here we go again!

I had a read of some of the suggestions on this thread, so I tried doing as suggested !

Ran a club meeting today ( LRP .12 Spec 3) , started by tuning the engine way rich on bottom and top end, to the point that it ran out of fuel at 4min 40...no power.

So I leaned it off bit by bit until it started to make power, by mainly the top end needle .

I got it to go pretty well, but it was very flat on the bottom ( clutch setting .4 gap, 1.2 mm pre-load / Kyosho RRR ), so I leaned off the bottom gradually until it was crisp, and added a bit of fuel to the top end to compensate.

Well, 4 minutes into the race, big lean bog out of every corner....up to that point, an absolute weapon...I had to richen the top end needle almost a full turn to stop it from happening, then, no power.

It seems to me that as soon as I get the engine tune to the point that it makes good power, I get this silly lean bog. If I tune it so it doesn't bog, then it's too rich, no power...

I've tried a few different pipe & glow plug combos, gearing etc and it seems to make little difference, surely I'm missing something? :weird: :weird:

Ok, Let me see if can help you sorry the bad english ;

I have race LRP .12 engines since the first one ,later sepc2 an spec3 now,

of course your head shims need to be correct by the % percentage ok

this engines likes and works perfectly with the botton en needle too rich, try to use aroud 9 turns opened dont worry its too much ok but works,

later this maybe you will never need to touch/tune again on the booton end
needle , to check if the botton end is fine , try this; run the car same way you run on the race, fastest you can around 3 laps , come to the pit, stop the car, and lift the front end of the chassis your car you will put the car almost on vertical the engine this time will want to rich a lot and want to die , here is the best point, if not you will need to rich a little bit more the low end needle, if the engine die before this the low end is too rich, this tip works because the car on vertical position makes the fuel inside of the tank goes easy to the carburator and make the engine rich alone,


Of course before you tune the botton end is better you tune the main needle , go to the track with main needle rich, your second speed maybe does not shift or shitf too late , start to lean 1/8 of turn each time until your engine show you a very good power so later this stop to lean or just go moore 1/8 maximum , later this go to tune the botton end like i told above,

The LRP engines does not work same procedure like nova based or anothers to have a good power on botton you need to work too rich on botton needle

Dont be afraid to rich a lot the botton end the more you rich better will be until the point of the engine die when stops

Try,
I hope will work for you

Here is a link with LRP SPEC 3 inside pictures

http://www.rcmasters.com.br/index.ph...ewtopic&t=1774

sorry AFM by my delay

A big Hug,
Fabian

...so the saga continues

Fabian K - check your PM

I have tried richening up the bottom as you suggested, the problem is when I run it so rich, after straight when the excess rich mix clears out, the engine wants to run on, if I lower the idle speed then it loads up and wants to cut out.

Even though I ran the engine like this, after 10 min - lean bog, the top of the piston is very dark ( obviously hot) :weird: , yet the engine still runs cool

Damn strange...

A black top of the piston usually means that the engine runs on the rich side. When it gets too hot it usually burns those deposits off and becomes gray-ish or even looks like it's been sandblasted.

As I wrote in my "Help" thread, it's a complete mistery to me.

One thing that I could imagine, is that the sleeve expands soo much when it's getting to temperature, that the compression goes away.

Mine is making horsepower like crazy until it reaches 85-90 degrees, and then it has the same problems like yours.