Will the crank and piston/rod/liner assembly from the spec 2 fit into the spec1 crankcase?

@afiq: we had best experience with either picco #2607 or nova #2601/#2602 pipes, I personally prefer the picco since it provides the widest powerband and also has the most torque. the novas do have slightly more (not really noticeable!) topend, the 2 versions of the nova are almost identical!
we always run 21/26 (or 27 on large tracks) on 54/60 on R40 or MTX3, don't now the final ratio.
centax depends a lot on the car you use of course, don't think it makes any sense if i tell you what we use.

@fathead: yes, spec2 piston and liner fits into old crankcase as well!

Any word on getting this new engine in North America? Will it be distributed by any of the major distributors, like Great Planes?

It sure sounds appealing! I'm an associated guy through-and-through, and getting the team-choice factory motor is very appealing. I was previously considering the OS TZ 3 port or maybe 5 port.

What power ratings are there on the new spec 2?

dont worry about power ratings etc. just get one :nod: my friends z.12r team is a little beast! and was a breeze to break in. so I guess the spec 2 can only be an improvement, any picco based motor is bound to be fast without question, just make sure you know what your doing in the tuning department.

Burito,

does the spec2 also have a new (improved) conrod?

@Aphinity: Associated does carry our line of nitro engines in the US, so you should actually find them soon in all the big distributors line-ups. If not, you might give AE a call...

@Hesky: thanks...

@stefan: conrod is not entirely new, but there was actually no real reason since there was a running change/improvement on the "old" z.12r team already in regards of the conrod. we didn't experience issues with conrods recently, but we do replace them after 5L to be safe.

That's great, thanks Reto.

I was hesitating to touch your engine because I had horrible luck with Picco .12 engines in the past.

They were always fast, no question, but the rods were crap.

Btw, Edward makes rods for Picoo based .12's now, and his NR rods usually last longer than the piston /sleeve set.

But I'm sure you knew that already ;) :D

Burito
Did LRP strengthen the bottom part of the rod in the running change. I have seen three of them go in this area. Also did the part number stay then same for the rod ? How can I be sure if I'm looking at the original or new part ?

I heard there is a special version of the spec 2 motor in limited supply as it has been further modified by hand. Do you care to comment.

@stefan: I knew Ed made his own crank, but never tried it yet. Need to speak to him... :blush:
I'm very sure you'd like our Spec.2 engine.

@b4: the rods look the same and so is the part-no. It's a change in tolerances & materials.
Not sure if I should answer about the handmodified engine... ;) Yes, such engines do exist but it's only on special demand by our distributers. So you'd need to talk to our australian agent in case you'd like to get one of those special types!

[QUOTE=burito]@stefan: I knew Ed made his own crank, but never tried it yet. Need to speak to him... :blush:
I'm very sure you'd like our Spec.2 engine.

Reto, I guess I'll have to try it next spring. We are having our last race in Munster next week, but I'm moving back south next year, where the R/C action is. :nod: :p :D

hi, me and my friend have been trying to work out an issue his z.12r seems to have. Basically after WOT the engine will return to idle speed very fast which is good but after a few seconds at idle the revs start to rise considerably all by itself. I thought maybe the LS needle was running the low end to lean but it doesn't die it just continues to rev in a sick sounding manner.
also it stutters at around 1/4 throttle when you hold it there.
The temperature of the engine will never exceed 110C, we're running 16% nitro btw.
any pointers would be much appreciated!

cheers

A couple of things.
What number glow plug are you running ?
I'm sure you know not to use a plug made for Nova based engines.
Have you taken the settings back to the standard setup in the manual?
Concentrate on the main needle first and than do the low speed.
The engine should not return to idle straight away. Let me clarify, if it returns to idle straight away you will decrease the life cycle of the piston/liner. Instead it should return to idle in about 2 to 3 seconds. When you do the WOT and then squeeze the fuel line as close to the engine as possible the revs should just rise and then the engine should want to stop.

Hey B4 may i ask how the life cylce of the piston and liner is decreased please? is it because the low speed mixture is to rich cooling the motor so suddenly after WOT causing excessive tempreture changes?

thanks for the reply b4

we're using the second medium lrp plug that came with the engine.
we got the motor off an lrp driver as it was surplus to requirement its new and wasnt broke in but unfortunately it had no manual so factory needle settings are just memorised in my head from when we got the engine. 2 turns in etc.... :)
if you have the factory settings available maybe I can verify that the settings were correct when we received the engine.
why no nova plugs?? are the heat ranges drastically different then?? I'm a novarosssi man not picco so this engine is all new to me.


or maybe the reverse is the case :confused:
my understand is if it takes a while to return to idle speed when you let off the throttle the ls is getting close to running to lean, also If the engine's RPM's rev up at the last second and then the engine dies than you are running too lean. to me the ls seems to run a little rich which seems safe to me

The mixture should allways be slightly rich for both high and low speed needle. Absolute performance is allways gained at the expense of longevity.