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Dennis?
Did you send me some momo?
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Originally posted by Motorman The carburetor internally is a little different in the midrange area The crankshaft is black coated and the timing was increased. I believe the d3 has gone to this timing. we asked for a different specification on the sleeve taper and piston fit. I believe the d3 has gone to this now also. The rod was changed. The cooling finset is obviously different. and that was the major changes for initial production. I am going to submit a new package to them soon which is radically different. right now if you take a d3 apart and lay it alongside a d3 they look the same to the naked eye. they are not that far apart. I have some durability improvments that we are working on also. The power out of the gate is ok a little better than an os tr but we want x12 level power and reliability. The package is done to get that level we just need to pull it together in the next production run which is a couple months off. It takes time to batch new parts and build them. i would expect the d3 to follow suit. we needed to insure the reliability was there before we turn up the heat on the power and we have had some teething pains but if you know me I don't give up easily. If we can't get there we will look at other options. |
Hey guys,
I purchased one of these engines from my LHS yesterday... I will be running 15% nitro, do I need to remove any head shims? I remember seeing somewhere that I need to remove all the headshims except the copper one. Can anyone confirm this? tnx |
run it as is.
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Thanks got it going...
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Originally posted by WeatherB Hey guys, I purchased one of these engines from my LHS yesterday... I will be running 15% nitro, do I need to remove any head shims? I remember seeing somewhere that I need to remove all the headshims except the copper one. Can anyone confirm this? tnx |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Marcos.J
i got mine in the mail today!!:D [/QUOTE about time you bought a new ENGINE :lol: |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
Originally posted by Marcos.J i got mine in the mail today!!:D [/QUOTE about time you bought a new ENGINE :lol: |
So far this engine has been awesome, I ran about a tank of gas through it so far.
It did something really weird around 1/2 tank though. The engine's RPM became unstable and increased from a quiet idle to about 1/4 throttle (estimate) by itself (without carb input). I shut it off and let the engine cool, it was fine for the remainder of the tank. Engine temp was 180° |
What method did some of you use to break the engine in? The "Goose" makes its maiden voyage this sunday so I wanted to start off right.:nod:
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Everyone will tell you something different...
But personally I do this: Tank 1,2 - Leave the engine at factory settings and start it up. Let it sit there and idle. Once finished, let the engine cool with the piston at BDC (bottom). Tank 3-10 - Drive the car around going about 1/4 - 1/2 throttle only. You want the engine to run at different rpms. Tank 11 - start leaning slowly. The breakin process will last about 1 - 1.5L of fuel. |
Is O'donell's 30% ok to use or am I better off with 20%? I'm located in the NYC area if that makes a difference.;)
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Weather B,
You do that with your servos reversed? ;) Josh Cyrul's tips are the best I have found. Try his method...it works. http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php Good luck!! john |
Nope, throttle servo is not reversed. Only steering. :)
Personally I wouldn't want to start a brand new engine and give it full throttle. That's just me though. But he makes a good point about more fuel = more lubrication and properly seating the parts. |
Originally posted by Dreddlox Is O'donell's 30% ok to use or am I better off with 20%? I'm located in the NYC area if that makes a difference.;) |
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I have seen this motor run at a recent test. Great performance.
John |
shim
I'm run 30% fuel with rb 6 plug is it safe to remove silver or copper. And what was happen if i do remove one of the shim. And what is a good clearance for 30% fuel
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Shims
Most engines come from the factory shimmed to run at a MAXIMUM nitro content of 30%. If your running I believe an RB6 plug which i believe is a hot plug you run the risk of detonation in warmer weather. If you remove any one of these shims you will probably risk detonation at sea level, especially in warm summer temps. Motorman knows more about this, but I personally would leave it alone.
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Did anyone ahve a problem with there engine staying tuned. It seems no matter what I do the engine runs lean and hot. Did any one have a problem with the carb or is it just me? :confused:
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Originally Posted by Dreddlox
Did anyone ahve a problem with there engine staying tuned. It seems no matter what I do the engine runs lean and hot. Did any one have a problem with the carb or is it just me? :confused:
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Originally Posted by JLock
I have been having similar problems like you. In Texas, the temp/humidity changes can be dramatic but I still have the same problems as you. I have even shimmed the motor (0.2mm shim) but still I can't get the motor to perform unless it is around 260 to 270 degrees. I was thinking about changing the carb to the trusty Novarossi MT12 on like I did with my older Sirio motors. It fixed those and they run strong at my local club tracks.
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Carb
Originally Posted by JLock
I have been having similar problems like you. In Texas, the temp/humidity changes can be dramatic but I still have the same problems as you. I have even shimmed the motor (0.2mm shim) but still I can't get the motor to perform unless it is around 260 to 270 degrees. I was thinking about changing the carb to the trusty Novarossi MT12 on like I did with my older Sirio motors. It fixed those and they run strong at my local club tracks.
Changing to the Nova carb makes it much easier to tune. The stock carb is overly sensitive. |
Mine had a defective top speed needle which wouldn't restrict the flow correctly. Even with the needle closed fully the engine would run rich.
I took the needle from my HPI .12R XS and all is well. :) |
I contacted the Tech Department at RD, and they told me to send the motor back to them. In which case they'll either repair it or replace it. :smile: I just want it to run right what ever the end result.
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Can someone please tell me what the stock needle settings are for this engine?
BB |
What temp are you guys running your engines at? I've been getting some really good run times with the engine running at about 235-240. Is that the range that you guys are at?
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Yup. I run about 235 - 245 and get about 6 - 7 minutes of racing per tank
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