Motorman:

Thank you for your response... I had thought you might have been snowed under with work etc:)

I am looking forward to getting my hands on the R3 and letting it loose down under here in Oz. I think it is great what Rdlogics an yourself are doing with the R3 an for the customer to be able to have a one on one with you guys to be able to discuss any issues etc.

I am certain i will make use of it:D

Thanks,

RR

sorry I'm a little slow at times guys.

Qlder you will have your hands full with the power in a stadium truck. Its going to be pretty light switchy. If youve driven a nova in a staduim truck it will be the same.

I am going to give one to the current National Champ in this class to try tomorrow . If he is happy with it I hope he will use one at the nats in March.

Any word on your .21 engine? I have not seen it mentioned in a while.

No no word. Its way out there on on the list. we have a lot we are getting our hands around right now as it is.
Thanks for asking though.

Which of your pipes would you recommend for 1/8th on-road? The track I would be running on usually has about a 200-250 foot straight. Thanks.

Motorman:

Have you been able to do any dyno runs with the R3 yet?

BB

yes we have. it is comparable to the italian mills.

Motorman,

You say it is comparable to the Italian mills. Can you be more specific as to what level? Are we talking S3 and above? Is it putting out as much as the JP mods?

I don't doubt your motors or your work. However everything has its strength and weaknesses, it be nice to know what the power curve of the R3 is like in constrast with those big name high dollar motors.:)

Yes, I'm looking for the same info as well. :nod:

I still am having issues with the software with the new dyno box. we know there is a timing issue with our flywheel pickup that is causing low numbers as the novas are testing in the same range. Our dyno is very close to RCX's dyno but is using a newer box made by the same company. we are working with them to solve the issue. I can tell you if you compare it to the recent RCX testing on .12 engines it is in the mid to high .7 HP range but exact numbers have not been nailed down yet. However we know that is where it is out of the box. On our dyno a RexRER I modified made .50 hp and our engine out of the box made .47 so we are right in there. I have not published any numbers until we get the dyno issues resolved and we are concurrent with the numbers RCX is getting with their machine.
The other issue is this. If we publish the real numbers then the uneducated (newbie play drivers. Hey with the right hype I could sell you a brigs and stratton to put in your car) won't buy the engine because we wont publish 1.5 HP level numbers cause it aint true. ( I questioned the .7 hp data for a long time but I am now satisfied after doing all the calculations myself looking at the RPM vs Time sweeps with given inertia. can't deny physics) and if we publish 1.5 HP level numbers when RCX runs an article on it we will look stupid like we have no clue what we are doing.
This all make sense?
I think after the winternats which is our debut for the Mongoose car R3 engine and TurboII pipe combo that if you ask somone who was there they will tell you the R3 has no problem keeping up.

12 engine test? Which issue? The latest one I have only has 6 - an OS, RB, Sirio, Musen, Top and Rex... Of course the MOd RB topped everything, but the X12 wasn't too far off...

I can only guess that he said 12 referring to the size of the engine, meaning .12. That is how I understood it.

Jon

sorry guys we werent in the shootout we missed the date but I had some feedback from them. (sorry if my post made it sound that way) Thats where the quote came from. There will be numbers published when they do the Mongoose review.

Hey Dennis
you can count on us for support I will be placing an order for RRE3 engines to promote them @ the shop & race them to.

Hi Dennis! Just checking in, interested in the Winter NATS?

How did engine/car perform ??

Bob

I wonder if I'll see these at the WRAM show. A little skeptical about buying any engine from there as if I have a problem or it's missing something I can't return it.

I would think RD would have the best customer service out there for now.

:nod: Dennis, still interested in the new pipe 0505.

Determining correct plug
 

Motorman, do you have any articles or write ups on how to select the correct glow plugs? This isn't a "What's the best plug..." type question. I understand (I think) what a warmer or cooler glow plug does, why it does it, how it affects timing etc, but i think i'm having trouble selecting the right one. Info i'm looking for is like characteristics to look for that would "tell" me that i'm using too hot/cold of a plug. Today for example i was totally short on run time. My engine usually makes 5 minutes no problem. but at barely 4:15 today i was dry for example. It Also ran pretty hot. I'm in Miami fl, today was in the upper 70's with pretty dry contitions. I ran a 7tf plug. I'm running a JP with a new piston/sleeve touched up by Maxy & 30% Maxy's Fuel. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Re: Determining correct plug
 

Gonzo, this might help.......

The numbers and characters on the plugs, are the product number, wire thickness, and thermal range of the plug’s body. Example: The Novarossi C6TG (F) or (C)

§ Product: C (Candele)
§ Wire Thickness: 6
§ Plug Type: T (Turbo)
§ Plated: G (Gold)
§ Thermal Range: F (Fredda = Cold)) C (Calda = Hot)

The plugs with cold thermal range F(Fredda), have a body with thinner walls and shorter body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head.

How to select the proper plug, regardless of Nitro %

·When the ambient temperature is high, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.

·Humidity determines if we use a Cold (F) thermal range, or Hot (C) thermal range.

·With high humidity percentage we should use a Hot (C) thermal range plug.

·If we have high temperature and high humidity, we should use a plug with thick wire and a Hot(C) thermal range.

The best instrument to determine which Turbo Plug to use, is those weather panels they sell for Yachts, that have Temperature, Humidity and Barometric Pressure on them. Have it calibrated at your local weather station, and you’re ready like the Pros.
That is the key to success or failure tuning engines with Turbo Glow Plugs, because they are so sensitive to weather variations that is unbelievable.

Following is a selection chart for Novarossi Turbo Glow Plugs

Type Thermal Range Nitro% Temp.C° Humidity%
C5TGC Hot/hot wire 10-20 0-10 70-100
C6TGC Hot/average wire 10-20 10-16 70-100
C7TGC Hot/cold wire 20-30 16-25 70-100
C8TGC Hot/ultra cold wire 20-30 25-up 70-100
C5TGF Cold/hot wire 20-30 0-10 40-70
C6TGF Cold/average wire 20-30 10-15 40-70
C7TGF Cold/cold wire 20-up 16-25 40-70
C8TGF Cold/ultra cold wire 20-up 25-up 40-70


AFM

Thanks, AFM. I've seen this before. But what I'm looking for is "signs" or characteristics to look for that help determine if you're using the wrong plug.

When using a hot glow plug (low number, so thinner wire) the engine will give more RPM so it will be faster on top end then when you use a colder glow plug, however because the wire is thinner it can deform and break more easier.
When using a cold glow plug (high number, so thinner wire) the engine will give more torque (low end punch) then when you use a hotter glow plug.
Take the glow plug away and look at the thread :
1) If the spiral of the plug is a little bit pressed and bent it means that the engine is too compressed. If you are racing on a sea level track, with 25% or more nitro, it could be the main reason. Than you need to check under head shims and in that case insert a 0.1 mm shim.
2) If the thread of the plug, or the head has a dull, as sanded look, it means that the carburation is too lean, or you have a plug that is to hot, causing pre-ignition. You run the risk of breaking the spiral and make it fall down on the top end of the piston, damaging also the sleeve.
3) If the thread has a dark colour and the plug seems humid, the carburation is too rich and the engines does not work at its best. You have to lean the carburation closing the full speed needle.
4) When the thread is polished and the spiral does not present any imperfections, your plug is OK, and carburation is ok.

AFM

How about like running characteristics? Overheating, bad Idle, Low Run time. The plug tips only work with a new plug.

Those are a combination of factors, weather, carb, nitro, pipe, gearing, compression etc.

There is a a correct plug (check the table) for an engine which starts with correct shimming (compression) for the nitro you use.
Then weather conditions determine if you use cold or hot body.
And fine tuning depends on what you are looking high end or low end. Then you have to carburate accordingly. Of course if you have hot weather, and or hot and dry, and or hot and humid, or viceversa, and you have improper plug , engine will overheat, running time will decrease, idle becomes erratic, etc. Tips work the same with a good used plug. A faulty plug will show immediately, with car not wanting to start or dying out of nowhere or backfiring.

AFM

i have this pipe what is it top mid or low http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/cate...10L&type=store

low end pipe
 

I believe that is the original Turbo 1 pipe. Not as much top end as the turbo 2 and mot as much bottom as the 62505 which is the pipe used by the RD team in Florida.

thanks

please!!! need help w/ my bottom end. how many turns do you have your low end needle from a close positon? i'd really appreciate the help.

I see Denis has bee in the forums some lately, but not in his engine forum... What's up with that????

was gone 2 weeks. no new information to present. no new questions. working in the shop to improve the engine. :)
also been working on the last of the car issues with TM. On the positive side I have eclipsed the .90 HP mark with an R3 on our dyno but it requires extensive rework. Stock they are .74 hope to get this into production in a couple months. Also working on some quality issues. (this has been real tough)

Row
once the engine is warmed up and Idling turn the low speed needle in until the engine rpm rises. once it begins to rise back the needle out until the speed falls back (about a quarter turn) this will get you close once the high speed is adjusted and the engine is around 240 on 2 consistant tanks. readjust the low speed again.

Note if you think you have a high needle issue request a new one from RD. This is if you cant get the high speed to lean out enough to get 240 to 260 degrees. we have found some taper variation in the needle assemblies.

thank you for the quick response. i know this is a good engine, i just don't know how to tune it and get the most out of it.

So I guess nothing special with the engine at the Nats?? Just wondering how it performed. Bob

Hi Dennis,

Just to throw something out there for you to clarify. It is understrood that STS is the contracted mfg for the R3. It is also known that STS mfg engines to sell under its own name and also to another popular 3-lettered brand.

With this information, someone may say that the R3, the STS D3R, and the other 3 lettered motor are all the same. Now of course that is not true but my question to you is, how is the R3 different from the other engines from STS? Without going into the exact details of your design, what are some of the special features you designed in the R3 that we can expect as opposed to the other STS engines?:)

The carburetor internally is a little different in the midrange area
The crankshaft is black coated and the timing was increased. I believe the d3 has gone to this timing. we asked for a different specification on the sleeve taper and piston fit. I believe the d3 has gone to this now also. The rod was changed. The cooling finset is obviously different. and that was the major changes for initial production. I am going to submit a new package to them soon which is radically different. right now if you take a d3 apart and lay it alongside a d3 they look the same to the naked eye. they are not that far apart. I have some durability improvments that we are working on also. The power out of the gate is ok a little better than an os tr but we want x12 level power and reliability. The package is done to get that level we just need to pull it together in the next production run which is a couple months off. It takes time to batch new parts and build them. i would expect the d3 to follow suit.

we needed to insure the reliability was there before we turn up the heat on the power and we have had some teething pains but if you know me I don't give up easily. If we can't get there we will look at other options.

Dennis, I need more informations.....:D

dino we can talk on msn tonight

dennis
 

hey dennis what gearing did use at the winternats.

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