i think i'm a regular dude!
 

i got one the first day they hit the warehouse i brought mine in on 30% o donnells with a 77 turbo plug , adjusted my temp to 250 to 270 and this thing makes a long straight very short .yahoo!

Re: i think i'm a regular dude!
 

Regular dude.........no way. LOL just kidding. Did you have trouble mounting the short rod motor in your G4? I had to dremel away a little bit of the boss for the logo for clearance of the motor mount screw heads so they would not go in at an angle.

I need to break my short rod in as well as the car, I need to go racing!

yb slow
 

yea yea, what ever! lol
i had to do the same thing to my motor on the logo.

yb slow
 

hey r u coming down next weekend for the rev championships
10m. qualifiers .:D

Re: yb slow
 

I was going to come down and race 1/8th, but Bill camcelled on me. I'm trying to talk Tennessee inot coming down to pit Bee yatch for me, but if he can't make it I won't have a pitman and probably won't come.

:sweat: :lol: Old habits die hard. ;)

Henry,

Long time, no talk. How's your new ride? and how's the Richey
power? Hope to see you at the track soon. It's been all work and no play for me. I hope everything is well with you.

Late,
Dave

Saw one of Dennis' motors run last weekend and all I can say is don't miss out on buying this engine. The engine has power throughtout the whole track. The combination of Dennis Richey and his motors are going to send other manufacturers back to the drawing board. The other motors that ran against the RD Motor were a Maxy Modified Salven, JP Modified, a couple of RB's but I don't know if they were modded or not...wasn't really paying attention to them since the RD Motor caught my attention on the track. Can't wait to run one. Great job Dennis and RD Logics.

Peakman

I dont know who you were at Miami this weekend , but i spoke to a few different people about the R3 motor i was running this weekend ,and all were interested or impressed by the way it ran,
I dont know what other motors i ran against but it was pretty competitive with just about all of them,
I was second on the grid out of about 25 cars and that was the first time the motor or the new RRR had hit the track, so i would say it ran well,
power was good and fuel miliage was decent (made 5:30 minutes) but i may have hurt the motor due to a tuneing error in a rush to make the main and having no help during warm ups,
over heated bad !!!!!
Motor seems to have to run about 250-270 to have good performance, atleast with my old exergine temp gun.

i going to start with that engine at this weeks state race so i will have a better report on performance on a larger trackif the motor is ok<< if anyone is interested http://www.atomichobbies.com
in Miami has two left

Thanks for the input BC. Just out of curiosity what did the retailer sell it for??

As long as the piston is not scarred it should be fine. The engines come alove around 260 or so. 260 270 is typical these days and it takes some temp before the combustion process gets effecient. We usually run the novas around there to.

Remember the engine is stock to and not a modified tuned version. That is out there a ways so I would expect a Max or JP to have an edge but it sounds preety good out of the box. Similar to what we saw when testing in california.

a couple of the team guys have been doing alot of testing out west and tell me that the Mongoose G4 with the short rod engine and turbo II pipe have been turning some lap times on the track equal to or better than some of the RRR's running there. It looks like we have a pretty good combination.

we are now offering a powered kit on the RD site that is also available through the dealers. check it out! Remember the price on the site is retail. Expect it to be a hundred cheaper at the dealer.

http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_456.htm
Are you shocked??? I told guys a few pages back or on the Mongoose thread we could do this, so we did.


peakman will respond to your PM tonight.

I have been running the STS D3R motor for a while now and I also have been taking it to the NS12 and JP motors with this motor. I assume the D3R is similar (not the same) to the R3 motor and if so I can definately recommend these motors!!

Iam not positive but i think price was $180.
only reason i think it could be hurt was it got up to 310 before i noticed it laying over and fattened it ,
it did idle after the race and never flamed during pits so maybe its ok , there is no noticable pinch in motor, even with plug in it rolls over pretty easy by finger tip,

let me say again for others only reading this post , the damage is my fault due to over heating .

if there any mods to help top end on a large track Dennis PM me with details (i.e open crank bore , more timing, maybe knife edge and a larger flute)

thanks i think the motor is well worth the money, and on any small to mid size track can compete with just about anything ,
p.s. bottom end is very good on this motor.

pinch is not that important contrary to popular belief. The question is how well does it seal as soon as the piston starts to close the exhaust port and does it hold compression after you roll it to top dead center. The fastest team motors we have have zero pinch. I have had them to over 350 and they have survived well. Though I certainly don't recommend it.

I agree it dosent need pinch at top (auctual piston locking on top of sleeve) just causes friction which makes extra heat,
what i should have said is it dose not hold compression at tdc
motor out of car ,hold it by flywheel and set the head at a 45dag angle and it will blead compression and roll over so head is pointing straight down in about 1-2 seconds,

Ill give it a snugging up with the old pincher if it acts up this weekend(very light snugging)

issue fixed

how about carb size it says 5.5mm on rd site we need 5.4mm

nitro
 

Motorman, we in Europe mostly run with a max. of 16% nitro. Will the engine run well also? Any mods required?

Head Clearance
 

Hi motorman

would like to find out, is it ok to use .35mm head clearance for 16% nitro at sea level with 6tf plug???

thanks in advance

I got my R3 short rod motor delivered a couple of days ago. It all looks pretty sweet. I too dismantled the motor for a quick inspection to make sure there were no probs. The only think I found inside was a small piece of the packing foam (it would have burnt right up if I had run it so I don't see it as a problem).

I'll be making sure I get it broken in before next weekend's race meeting over here in Western Australia.

Dennis, can you provide any advice with regard to the Nitro TC3 header and pipe? I'll be running 16% nitro and a #7 plug, I was also thinking of removing one of the shims from the motor before winding it up after break in. Sound about right?

As a side note, Australia now has an RD Logics distributor and if anyone is looking for one of these motors (or any other RD equipment) I can put them onto the distributor. I think he has 2 left in stock after the pre orders were shipped.

Cheers,

Mike.

What happened to the chat forum Fridays? Or am I in the wrong thread?

sorry guy I've been out a bit.

NeRacer and Zoom: Yes remove the copper shim under the silver one.

Zoom: use the associated two chamber pipe or the RD. In the event you use the associated shorten the header 1/4 inch and butt the pipe to the header. Plug the stock pressure hole and drill a new one in the second chamber towards the end of the pipe and take your tank pressure from there. Also I highly recommend the K factory fuel tank on the NTC3. It will give you consistant tuning you won't ever get with the stock tank.


Cartman: the precise bore is actually .210 or 5.33MM The engine is ifmar legal. Even if it wasn't a Novarossi carb drops right in.

Nuno: If your rules allow blending the turbo cut of the crank can be done. However it will be EFRA illegal but still IFMAR legal

RoyU:
i moved it to saturday at 6:00 PM Eastern time however I will be out tonight so see you next week. Last week no one showed so I hung for an hour and split.

Cheers its 5.4mm our max,

Dennis- is there a typo on the specs?

13.98mm bore
14.06mm stroke
displacement= 2.158 cc's or 0.1320 cu/inches

13.80mm bore
14.04mm stroke
displacement= 2.100 cc's or 0.1280 cu/ inches

ROAR rules allow a max of 0.1290 cu/ inches on all .12 size engines.

IFMAR rules allow 2.11 cc's.

I guess the long rod engine will not be IFMAR or ROAR legal??

yes there is.
I fat fingered a number or two as I was drawing those numbers from memory while away from home. Both engines are legally 12's and pass specs. both engines have been checked at roar national events for displacement and passed no issues.

sorry for any confusion this may have caused

thanks Dennis

But If just the silver shims there then I have 0.5mm head clearance in total is about 0.019inch right?

I thought we would safe to use 0.012 for 16%

Hmmmmmm, 6pm eastern is 1pm for me:D I thought I could've caught up on some reading...oh well. Anyways, got to work on Saturdays.:(

Glad to hear that it was only a typo. I'm holding out for the long rod engine.

Here's to hoping someday I can slap Richey .21 in my on-road car.

New Engine
 

Hi all i will be in the US soon and i want to purchase a RD engine but i have no clue on which one to get?

I am running a Serpent 710 and it has to be a .12 3 PORT Turbo, and we run 16% fuel over here.
We dont have large tracks over here and i have a JP, MAX and a Novarossi RRL3 (which seems to be the motor of choice)
Nobody runs RD engines over here except in buggys and none of the hobby shops stock them. So here it is i want something quick and i dont mind spending the money for quality (and speed!):D

P.S i was thinking of a..... RBC17000435 3 Port Turbo Rody modified .12 SG crank and slide carb
Turbo plug

Re: New Engine
 

Sorry about so many questions but were can i find this motor and how much is it?

1700-000445 525.00 Rody Roem Modified 3 Port V.12 Engine-turbo glow plug-composite carb

Re: Re: New Engine
 

Go to 3hobby.com man ... there's a link to the "shop" for the engine. Quick! I'm told the queue is long!

Re: Re: Re: New Engine
 

On my way!:D

Hi Dennis

Won this weekend....finally...jejeje, Made pole position and won two heats and 4th in last heat controlling my oponents.
I had a problem with plugs......blew one per heat (3). After each heat tried to restart engine and couldn't, changed plug and raced....then same thing. I went through 3 O'Donnell 77 standar plugs.

I had .016 total head clearance in my Collari Sirio, with Byron's 20% fuel, and used Sirio's own pipe with modified stinger to 6mm and convergent cone exit moded to 9mm. Engine runned like a mad dog, but I'm concerned with plug issue. What could it be???

AFM

Dennis,

I fired up the short motor today to start breaking it in. Once I got a couple of tanks through it, I leaned it off a little.

I ended up with the top end needle screwed in as far as it would go and it still won't rev without a ton of smoke.

Could this be caused by the fact that there is still a ton of pinch in the sleeve? If not, what might my issue be? (I was able to set the low end so it reved cleanly with smoke but the top end is just seriously fat.)

Cheers,

Mike.

Just placed my order last night for the RRE R3. Can't wait to run it.

when will you run it ? i want to see it too.

coming tomorrow ?

Dennis waiting and hoping to get my hands on a signature engine when available. I'm on the list. I know you don't mess with the NTC3 but... has anyone been testing your engines on them?? ( you know why I'm asking)
Have you checked out the WERKS Racing
pipe for the NTC3? If so, what's your thoughts??

http://werksracing.com/product.do?sku=WRX6610C

The exhaust mainfold pipe is .080 I.D. bigger than the RD pipe and about 2.5 inches longer. Looks like the pipe should be on a 1/8th car. I have the pipe but nothing but rain and cold here so no testing yet.:( :(

Heh, seems like tomorrow will probably be my only sat off for the rest of the year. But as soon as I get it I'll try and squeeze some time in before work. Probably in a week or so. And yes, you can play with it. :) I'll be there sat.

Aussie Debut of the Short Stroke R3
 

Hi All,

I ran the new motor yesterday for it's first competition outing here in Australia(to my knowledge anyway).

I still couldn't get the top end as lean as I would have wanted it and the motor seemed to really be fueled up in the top end and didn't want to rev out. Temps were under 150 degrees F and it was 35 degrees celcius outside(dunno the conversion to F but I would say it was in the 90's).

Anyhow, my lap times were about where I had been with the Team Infinity motor but I knew there was more to come.

I swapped the high speed needle for an STS needle and the problem was solved. The needles didn't look any different to the naked eye so I don't know if I might have dislodged something when I changed the needles that fixed the problem or if the needle is different in some way.

Either way, the motor was now an instant performer almost a second a lap faster than before the needle change. I qualified 4th trying to get to grips with the extra power.

In the final I made it to the lead and then started to lap some traffic. Not being experienced at being faster on the straights than other cars, I managed to run up the back of an MTX3 running a Maxy engine. I flamed out and after restarting I made my way back to 3rd by the end of the 10 min final. The temps were at about 210F so it was all good.

Great engine Dennis, I couldn't be happier. Maybe just try and get your feedback about the needle.

Cheers,

Mike.

Zoom
sorry I've only been able to get in here about once a week right now. I don't understand the needle thing but did you perhaps change the plug at the same time?? (turbo plugs are prone to developing black death, if the end of the wire where its welded to the outer housing goes black the plug is toast. It only needs to go black about 2mm in from the edge, if this happens the motor will run rich and never tune) In my instructions I tell users to scrap the plug after you break the engine in. Did you change the head clearance?? How much nitro?? You need to get the engine into the 250/260 range in F for temp. the performance difference between 210 and 250 is huge.

BB
looks like it ought to run OK, hard to say without actually seeing it and measuring the angles. Could be similar to our pipe with a longer baffle can.