I have an LL3 engine. Going with 30% fuel, so I want to add .1mm shim to the head. When I took off the cooling head, the button is stuck with the sleeve. What is the best way to seperate them without any damanges. Thanks.

try a little heat

take the glow plug out put a heap of fuel in it put glow plug back in and wind over bye hand with a little pre heating first should pop straight of.

Pipe Question
 

I will be using an N12LL3 on My MTX-3 Prospec and was just wondering what pipe works best with these engines. Im not looking for an RPM pipe or plainly a torque pipe. Im looking for something in between.

p.s. How do these bad boys go?? :sneaky:

Same happened with me. I used a hobby knife and prised it out.

Skyline VR12 is a great overall pope.

Wendellc1, I have had this happen before and it can be a major pain in the arse. Pull the sleeve out if you can (with head button attached and heat the sleeve with a heat gun. You may even want to lay an ice cube on the head button just before you try and pull them apart. The idea is to heat the brass up and keep the aluminum cool so the brass will expand away from the aluminum head button. Try not to pry on it as this can lead to damage. By all means DO NOT hydro lock the engine with fuel and force the button off, as that will almost surely bend or damage your connecting rod! Heat, Heat, Heat!

Rody, The best pipes I have tested so far for the .12 size racing mills have been the Mugen X12 one piece pipe and the RD Logics Turbo 2 one piece pipe. I think you will find they are both great. Myself, I would choose the Mugen pipe.

BK

as promised....i'm updating regarding the above... ;)

my 2nd race with the same engine,same exhaust, same fuel, another 3 per 5 minutes heats including 45 minute final....and it's still raouwkkksss...finish 5th...

didn't even stall once throughout the day...and was still using the old plug from last months race.... :eek: :eek: :eek: :D ;) maybe i sounds a bit over... but its a fact...thanks :nod:

Guys, you definately must try the new Mielke pipes with the conical headers, they are awesome.

I compared them to my RDL Turbo II and they are really much better.

As a bonus, they have a chrome layer, which makes cleaning them abreeze. Mine looks just like the one on the pic after half a season.

http://www.rc-car-exklusive.com/shop...ea1900p600.jpg

the springs that go onto the motor looks strong and the HEC pipe is good to just like a nova pipe :nod: :nod:

Ross

There are 2 models of that pipe, the low volume for high revs and the high volume for torque. Which one is this?

What do you guys think about the RS12T5S2? This is an older engine no? Trinity has it on their Ebay site for what looks to be a great price, so I'm thinking of ordering one. I'm assuming this will have more than enough power for any off-road racing, but the real question is buying an older engine like this a bad decision? (actually I'm not really sure if its a really old engine or not, but I have come to conclusion it probably is)

http://cgi.ebay.com/NOVA-ROSSI-12-TU...QQcmdZViewItem

It is an older engine but as you guessed it is more than enough power for offroad. It isn't roar legal so if you race with roar rules, then you can't use it.

hi stefan, thats good news! i managed to pick up a new x12 piston and sleeve for a few dollars to lease some new life in my old rs12 3 port motor, then I was told it wouldnt work. after measuring them the port hight and sizes are identical. they must be the same!
havent tried it yet as I'm still looking for a new conrod, the old one has seen better days.

I have a x12 and I am looking for a better pipe then the RD logics Turbo 2. I think that I need more top end. Any one with some thoughts on a Novarossi based pipe??