Hi all,

Just getting my C-02 ready to race again (after over 4 year's?! ... lol)
and was looking at getting the NR Mito .12 WC Ceramic.

Was looking at pipe's and header's.

Should I just go ahead and get the 41616 header and the 51615 pipe to get thing's going?
Or is there a clear favorite set up to go with on these engine's?

Thank's in advance.

Regards
BM

That's always been my go-to combo. Glad you're getting back to racing your Sedan.

ok. Thanks Nick.

Hey. Did I hear there's no longer racing at Lynwood?

Regards
BM

Gone!!
 

Yes, That's true. Management said we were done there.. :flaming:

Sorry BM. Replied to your PM a moment ago. The combo you mentioned isn't for me in my experience on the Mito WC. The 2660/5-ring conical is far superior particularly on the bottom end. The 2562/6-ring to me is very flat - massive top end (and thirsty) but in sedan bottom end is important - particularly in higher traction. No-one runs the 2652 pipe anymore that I know around here.

novarossi mito 35 gt 5 17 default carb settings
 

Does any know what the default carb settings are for the novarossi mito 35 gt 5 17

it is a 3 adjustment carb

Low end needle
high end needle

Hello Team Novarossi,

I currently use a stock Novarossi GT5/17. It was originally a 2016 spec which i upgrades by changing the piston, rod and sleeve. It a very good and fast engine.

My track is very technically(tight,hairpin corners, asphalt parking lot) and that is about 3/4 of the track(Accelerate and brake). The other 1/4 is a straight away which is about 120-150 ft. To paint a better picture the average time on the track for GT is 18 sec and the straight last no more than 2-3 secs.

The guys i am racing against are using off road engines such as OS 21XZ-B VII and OS 21 VZB. They are very very quick in the technical section. i believe due to the extra torque and the low rpm starting range.Their cars launch very quickly. On the straight i can pull a gap or maintain the gap (depending on how quickly i get on the power) but i lose it all in the technically section and have to get defensive until i reset on the straight. no matter how well i THINK i have set up my serpent gt 3.1 clutch i cant get that launch or acceleration like my competitors.

i have tried xhard, hard and medium springs, carbon and yellow shoe, steel and alu clutch bell, and different gear ratios and engine tuning. i am using Nov 41032 manifold and tesla 2139 pipe(i tried Nov 51010 pipe as well). The best operating temperature for me is 280-300 degrees. and once it stops its the hardest thing to re start. The bottom needle is a bit lean in order to be competitive in the technical section. i am getting good smoke and the engine revs come all the way down when i come in to pit after about 9-10 mins.

Someone told me if i use Nov41031 manifold i should get more torque/bottom end, is this true?

Also, if anyone can provide any solution i am happy to take notes.

my current serpent set up is:

spur:63/58 pinion:19/24
2 carbon shoe w/ medium springs
2 yellow shoe w/ hard springs
nov41032 w/ tesla pipe 2139
#8 plug (i live in a tropical country...HOT)

taken from website>>

http://www.novarossi.it/2012/images/...e_21-25-28.pdf

hope that helps ! youll be able to see from the images if its the correct carb
@wichitafc98

hey guys need helps here

Just rebuild my 35 plus lc wc 07 (collari)
and notice that i cant rotate the engine if i bolt down the backplate, but it move freely if i loosen it up little bit, i know something goes wrong here??

Is the rear bearing fully pushed in?

i believe yes, bcause it can move freely with backplate installed with loose scew,

put the flywheel on and the nut and tighten, then try putting the rear cover back on and tighten this will make sure the crank is all the way in. if this don't work then either the rear bearing is not all the way in or when u ordered the parts to rebuild it they sent u the wrong bearing...try putting the original bearing back in if everything is good then the new bearing is no good... and if u didn't change the bearing then do like I said with the fly wheel on, other then that the rear bearing not all the way in..

thx i will look for that,,
Appreciate it :nod:

Take out the glow plug and try tightening the back plate screws and see if it improves.

A lot of the time, you will get a “”hydraulic” lock which feels like the engine has seized, but this is actually quiet normal (especially if you have oil inside the engine)