Though still deciding between the 353 or +12-3ST but what is most likely the best manifold and muffler for the track in link below? Still to ask around at the track what people are running but always good for other opinions. I do like rather linear power that is long revving.
Also thanks for the heads up guys on the older 353 too.

http://youtu.be/CoIZujZQ4A0

+ YouTube Video

07604 , N1 N2?
 

Hi can anyone tell me the difference between the N1 and the N2 rod.
Both have same part number 07604 but different batch numbers?


Thanks
Steve h

i have both motors, on my home track 330 ft straight the 353 with med manifold and 2660 pipe works the best for me. i have found the plus3sct good on med or small tracks

steve the 1 is ordinal 2 is what you get to replace it with I hope or I will be told I am wrong again
greg

Anybody know the rear bearing size on a Max XL9?

Nevermind, 14x25.8

Keep On .12
 

Dear all, any reviews on the keep on .12

And what about the bearings are they better than the PT?

Had a PT and really liked it so really want to get the Keep on if it is better than the PT.

Regards

Ramon

Here is a link with pics from a while back.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-n...eep-tuned.html

Is a great engine. Cannot notice the new bearing. Super expensive to change out the bearing, so expensive it almost does not make sense to change the bearing(s). I had a PT and the keep on seems smoother and easier to tune.

I have two Keep-on .12 PTS and they are both equally great motors. I retired a Flash PTS which I loved and didn't regret it. As noted previously, the bearing is expensive to switch out so take care when breaking in and maintenance. I would suggest getting on that's already run-in to help prevent damaging the bearing during break in.

I'm wondering what is technically different
 

Hi guys I'm curious about the technical differences between the N1 and N2 crank.
I have a a keepon .12 and o ordered some spare rods and they are N1 but the one in the engine is an N2. Dimensional they look the same. Does anyone know if there has been a material change? Or any other specification that have changed?

Steve H

Heard that the KEEP ON engines have less pinch than the other Nova's produced.
Is it a good thing i mean will the engine wear faster?

I'm a .21 guy not a .12 guy but knowing Nova the way I do, I think I can shed some light on it.

Generally Nova uses a letter and a number to identify their rods. The first letter denotes what it is for (R,C,P,N, whatever). Any motor that has an R rod in it can use any other R rod. So if you have a 2000 era .21 with an R2 rod, a modern R7 will fit it.

The number is the version of that particular size rod. The higher the number, the newer the rod.

Now again, I don't know the recent .12s but if Nova's nomenclature remains the same, any motor with an N1 rod can be replaced with an N2. The 2 just means it's an updated design and they are usually better.

Of course, sometimes even the same numbered rods get updated. I just replaced an R7 09 rod with an R7 13. Though they are the same part number, they are noticeably different. Both are dimensionally the same and will work just fine.

I'm not sure about pinch, you'd have to ask a more experienced person when it comes to that. Mine where pre-run in motors and they were fine. It also depends on who you ask about pinch since some will tell you if the motor has too much, it's not broken in and that's bad also.

Thank you Novarossi and Automodel
 

I have good experience with Novarossi and Automodel.

( Automodel is novarossi distributor in my country ).

Last month I received 3 set piston sleeve replacement due to piston sleeve scracthes.

I have no idea why it could happened...... anyway, I already forget my un-happiness.

I'm thankful Novarossi and Automodel for caring me. Very good customer service indeed :)


http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps47ecb2f7.jpg

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...psd77d2c2c.jpg

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps04a9aeba.jpg

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps827e15cd.jpg

The most right looks like a bad bridge in the exhaust port. The other 2 I have seen more. Probably caused with the combination of a tight pinch, low lubrication and to fast on the throttle after a cold start. All of these problems I have seen were with the latest version of the microcasted piston about 2 years ago. After that they switched back to the CNC piston and made some cooling channels just under the exhaust port (flash models).