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Originally Posted by TommyBlazin
(Post 8857318)
really Ive run several tko's no problem, and Boca's are supposedly better, quick q, and i know u have plenty more know how than me ralph, but with the ceramics, tko's especially, i was told u have to let them warm up real slow before blippin engine, as it cause "flatspots" knowing that i purchased a competition heater for the head, running tko's in a particular off-road motor for 6 gallons NOT a HICCUP bro...but i was told about the ceramic bearings skidding when engine is not heated up to running temp and was told early on, when engines hot, THAN you can blip, just a precautionary with ceramic bearings that i dont think everyone knows about...lmk if that could be the case if so, tell them you preheated etc etc ...lol...
tommy |
The main problems with RC bearings is that no one knows what the real specs are. If you go to the better bearing manufacturers like INA and SKF you can get a complete book with the specs of a cetain line of bearings. If my engines would adapt their bearings I would not go for RC bearing companies who are getting customers with nice ladies in bathing suites, I would choose the real quality.
I am also running an engine with a 12x24 main bearing, it is a standard size so it is SKF, these bearings last for ever, even after several blowned up engines. |
could anyone tell me the main differences between the 2010 flash tuned and the max xxl3 balanced. i have seen the max and its quick, but i was wondering how it compares to the flash tuned
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in the inside of the sleeve there is alittle piece of aluminum looks like its melted in there i can feel the piston rubing on it what the best way to get that off of there?
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Originally Posted by ralphierace13
(Post 8877929)
in the inside of the sleeve there is alittle piece of aluminum looks like its melted in there i can feel the piston rubing on it what the best way to get that off of there?
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Originally Posted by 1fastmxcn
(Post 8878193)
Use muratic acid and a qtip if the aluminum is on the chrome. It will bubble some at first and when it's done just wash it off with wd40 sand sleeve lightly with 1500grut paper and it's ready. Don't get the acid on brass or aluminum parts , it will eat them up.
thanks!! |
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? there r 3 options aviailable for the rubber o ring on the back cover for the nova motors, .15 .20.25 does anyone know what the different thickness does to the motor. also when raising the timing does it give more top end and less bottom, or more bottom or just more all around power...
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Originally Posted by ralphierace13
(Post 8965363)
? there r 3 options aviailable for the rubber o ring on the back cover for the nova motors, .15 .20.25 does anyone know what the different thickness does to the motor. also when raising the timing does it give more top end and less bottom, or more bottom or just more all around power...
any answers? |
Novarossi engines swept the Worlds this weekend.
TQ plus 1st, 2nd and 3rd in the main! :D |
Originally Posted by ralphierace13
(Post 8983001)
any answers?
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Originally Posted by jdesoto
(Post 8989403)
Novarossi engines swept the Worlds this weekend.
TQ plus 1st, 2nd and 3rd in the main! :D |
Originally Posted by GMartinez
(Post 8989911)
Ralphie are you asking about raising timing on the crank or are u asking raising the head clearance Im a little confussed
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Originally Posted by ralphierace13
(Post 8990926)
no the back rear cover that has the rubber o-ring they make 3 diff thickness of o rings i was wondering y and if it does anything..
also when raising the timing does it give more top end and less bottom, or more bottom or just more all around power... I guess you meant to say increase timing that's what confussed me I will keep my thought's to myself on that 1 & let the engine Guru's chime in:D |
NOV14001 is the correct part# for the o-ring for the Kangaroo.
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