R/C Tech Forums - Novarossi engines thread

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)

- Onroad Nitro Engine Zone (https://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-nitro-engine-zone-71/)

- - Novarossi engines thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-nitro-engine-zone/29453-novarossi-engines-thread.html)

pic of back plate

here is the pic of the back plate. anyone else have this ? i have 2 new engines, both the same.

Nice photography patto

Quote:

Originally Posted by PROVK (Post 7629499)

Nice photography patto

haha, you know i took like 20 pics, and this was the only one that you could tell there is a problem. thank god for digital cameras :nod:

Looks like a minor defect in the mold. Doesn't appear to be anything to worry about.

looks like a casting defect..
very unusual from novarossi,either way i wouldnt worry about it.

Patto

I concurr with the above 2 posts.
I wouldnt worry about it but you would expect better from Novarossi.

is there a novarossi engine with a pull start attached to it?

or i have to improvise?

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuakevs (Post 7633100)

is there a novarossi engine with a pull start attached to it?

or i have to improvise?

The Basic series has some models.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pferguson2212 (Post 7627764)

I am new to Nitro modelling and obtained a 1/8th scale car from a friend.

I have had some issues with the old model and patched and fixed it up to a good working condition with a few replacement parts. Unfortunately the radio equipment was not the newest and have had to replace one of the servos simply due to the state of the wires causing interferance.

To cut a long story short, I had it out on the road today for a test run and had it running very nicely... that was until the crystal decided to jump out of the receiver and the car went careering towards a small embankment where it flipped on its side which threw the throttle into full and sent it into a wall. By the time I got to it the engine blew the piston into a 100 peices.

The engine is obviously a NovaRossi but the actual type and product code I don't know. It has NOVA up one side and 2000 up the other of the engine casing and also has 3.5, which I am presuming is the CC but other than that I have no idea.

I would post images but too new :blush: but I hope you can help and if you can advise on the what engine this is and the best course of action to fix and whether this is salvagable and is it worthwhile fixing and finally, where to go for the parts.

Thanks all!

Can anyone help with the above, fell at the end of the previous page...

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by pferguson2212 (Post 7633746)

Can anyone help with the above, fell at the end of the previous page...

Thanks!

not only the cost, but other things that may look ok, when at 30+K RPM may actually be damaged as well. safest thing to do is start fresh with a new motor.
if your piston smashed into little pieces, you be looking at a rod, bearings, liner piston and possibly a head button.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pferguson2212 (Post 7633746)

Can anyone help with the above, fell at the end of the previous page...

Thanks!

Nova-2000, it has a read/purple head with on the lowest cooling fin small fins facing downwards, a high combustion chamber and an 8 port sleeve? Other models in that range was a blackhead with 6 ports and a smal quare redhead with 4 ports. The sleeve must be 19.2mm in diameter, it has a square stroke (16.4 x 16.4) and the crankpin is 4.9mm.

If this all is true then do not bother, get a new engine, impossible to get it fixed or somewhere on Ebay you must find something.

If the sleeve is 19.5mm in diameter you probebly can fit a new P/S set but then you have a problem finding the rod. For under the 200 dollar you will find a N21-5T which is a good engine for fun.

:tire:

Quote:

Originally Posted by pferguson2212 (Post 7633746)

Can anyone help with the above, fell at the end of the previous page...

Thanks!

Put some rubber bands on the throttle servo to pull it closed, and get a radio with a fail safe. In the end its cheaper than loosing a car/engine to a runaway.

If the battery fails the rubber bands will pull the throttle closed. If you loose the radio connection and the battery is not dead, the fail safe will shut the throttle closed whe set properly. The rubber bands need to be strong enough to overcome the servo (coreless servos have much less friction and usually smoother gear train). Brushless are the best put pricey.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roelof (Post 7633445)

The Basic series has some models.

how about .21 models of novarossi?

Thanks folks, that was my thinking too that it was going to be a right-off as far as the engine is concerned.

The car itself has a few broken areas around the suspention and although it works it is taking time to check it and tighten it all up on each run.

Can you recommend a good 1/8th scale car to start with that is not too pricey and is in kit form for me to build myself as I like to know how it all goes together, get a better understanding of it to diagnose any problems.

I was stupid and hasty as I had every intention of getting a failsafe, just never got round to it. Lesson learned and an expensive one at that! I was told that the engine was a good one and retailed for about £400 which was why I was enquiring about fixing it.

@Roelof - The colling head is purple and an 8 port sleeve so I will not bother fixing it and as Pattojnr mentioned, it will be safer just to get a new one anyway.

Again thanks to all that replied and I will await replies as to a good starting kit. :D

I have a new 35+21 that I brought 3 months ago. I can not finish a race with it, the clutch is gone, turns to dust. I put new fly wheel, new clutch bell, new fly weights. before this motor I have had no problem with the clutch please help anyone anywhere.