Novarossi engines thread
#1727
they are shimed already, but i have always ran 30 without adding a shim and had no problems, it uselly will help prolong the life of the motor and help reduce temps. i would get a second appinion though.
#1731
ya i would run it stock shimming. but if you want to ad shims start off with one or two .001 shims.just keep an eye on the piston dome. if you see pitting or it starts to look pitted then add a shim or two. this is what detanating is. you can also check your deck hight and post it on here and someone can tell you if your close or not, but i think you will be fine with 30 and stock shimming. good luck,have fun
#1733
Originally Posted by antoine80
hey all..
this is what happend to my engine last saturday
any idea? should i go for a new engine? has anyone suffer the same damage?
br
antony
this is what happend to my engine last saturday

any idea? should i go for a new engine? has anyone suffer the same damage?
br
antony
I think the crankshaft is bent, and thus vibrate.
Need to replace the front and inside bearing.
I suggest to buy new engine because the cost to rebuild probably is half the price of new engine.
#1734
Originally Posted by asw7576
Damm......
I think the crankshaft is bent, and thus vibrate.
Need to replace the front and inside bearing.
I suggest to buy new engine because the cost to rebuild probably is half the price of new engine.
I think the crankshaft is bent, and thus vibrate.
Need to replace the front and inside bearing.
I suggest to buy new engine because the cost to rebuild probably is half the price of new engine.
the main problem is that even if i change the crankshaft i am not sure if the engine will work ok. i have run about 6ltrs of fuel. how often should someone change the rod?
#1735
Originally Posted by antoine80
some weeks ago i replaced the inner ball bearing.. it was destroyed, i also think that the crankshaft has been destroyed that time and now just broke.. but the bearing at least the inner one seem to be good.. also i am lucky enough and pieces of the broken iron didn't scratch the piston
the main problem is that even if i change the crankshaft i am not sure if the engine will work ok. i have run about 6ltrs of fuel. how often should someone change the rod?
the main problem is that even if i change the crankshaft i am not sure if the engine will work ok. i have run about 6ltrs of fuel. how often should someone change the rod?Change conrod every 2 gallons and/or everytime you replace p/s/r
Next time when you put the flywheel, always use proper tools. You tighten the flywheel locknut hard enough but not too hard. Use oil lubricants to collette, flywheel, and flywheel locknut's threads. The lubricants aid the tightening process. It won't slip during use, trust me !!
#1736
Originally Posted by asw7576
I suggest buy new engine.
Change conrod every 2 gallons and/or everytime you replace p/s/r
Next time when you put the flywheel, always use proper tools. You tighten the flywheel locknut hard enough but not too hard. Use oil lubricants to collette, flywheel, and flywheel locknut's threads. The lubricants aid the tightening process. It won't slip during use, trust me !!
Change conrod every 2 gallons and/or everytime you replace p/s/r
Next time when you put the flywheel, always use proper tools. You tighten the flywheel locknut hard enough but not too hard. Use oil lubricants to collette, flywheel, and flywheel locknut's threads. The lubricants aid the tightening process. It won't slip during use, trust me !!
can you explain me a bit more what you mean about locking the flywheel? i should use some oil while tightening the flywheel nut?
#1737
Originally Posted by antoine80
what do you mean p/s/r ?
can you explain me a bit more what you mean about locking the flywheel? i should use some oil while tightening the flywheel nut?
can you explain me a bit more what you mean about locking the flywheel? i should use some oil while tightening the flywheel nut?
regarding the bearing change, you may installed the bearing with bad alignment with the front bearing, causing some bind on the shaft.....
there's a tool to install bearing properly aligned with each other.......try to get one of find a hobby shop to make this service for you next time......
#1738
Originally Posted by SalvadoriRacing
p/s/r = piston, sleeve and rod
regarding the bearing change, you may installed the bearing with bad alignment with the front bearing, causing some bind on the shaft.....
there's a tool to install bearing properly aligned with each other.......try to get one of find a hobby shop to make this service for you next time......
regarding the bearing change, you may installed the bearing with bad alignment with the front bearing, causing some bind on the shaft.....
there's a tool to install bearing properly aligned with each other.......try to get one of find a hobby shop to make this service for you next time......
i though that the bearing just sits inside the engine and the alignment is correct because the bearing "case" was tight.. i suppose this was wrong
#1739
Just to mention to anybody who wants to change main bearing on Novarossi based motors-be carefull, Novarossi main bearings made offset and proper direction is required. Shorter side goes to back side of motor.
It is just tip to follow.
It is just tip to follow.
#1740
Originally Posted by EdwardN
Just to mention to anybody who wants to change main bearing on Novarossi based motors-be carefull, Novarossi main bearings made offset and proper direction is required. Shorter side goes to back side of motor.
It is just tip to follow.
It is just tip to follow.
although i have changed my main bearing i didn't know this.. when you say shorter side you mean for the inner "circle" of the bearing or the outside?



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