Community
Wiki Posts
Search

STS engines

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-28-2004, 07:01 PM
  #1051  
Nitro Tech
 
dino.tw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: I can drive!
Posts: 1,459
Default

Originally posted by Z00M
It was still making good smoke everywhere. It just continued to get hotter and hotter. Before that run I checked the head button, I sealed the rear plate, carb where it mounts to the crank case, the main needle and fittings for the fuel inlet. When I was removing this demon engine from the car, I noticed that there was some fuel around the front bearing.
Except your thermometer keeping show you high number, What else odd symptom your engine have? Can it run out of each tank fuel and not go out? Look at the top of your piston,is it dark black?
dino.tw is offline  
Old 07-28-2004, 07:43 PM
  #1052  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
Z00M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,173
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Water test when engine was hot showed that it was really hot. Water would jump off the head and not stay on it at all.

Performance would go from ok at the start but very rich feeling to it being very lean and then back to rich again. It would run a whole tank without flaming out until I let it idle and then get back on the gas again and it would bog and die from too rich.

Engine did not sound lean where it revs up and then lacks fuel, it always ran ok when very hot. Piston was black but after the 333F run it was very clean.
Z00M is offline  
Old 07-28-2004, 08:07 PM
  #1053  
Nitro Tech
 
dino.tw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: I can drive!
Posts: 1,459
Default

Originally posted by Z00M
Water test when engine was hot showed that it was really hot. Water would jump off the head and not stay on it at all.
When you do water test the engine is running or not?

Originally posted by Z00M
Performance would go from ok at the start but very rich feeling to it being very lean and then back to rich again. It would run a whole tank without flaming out until I let it idle and then get back on the gas again and it would bog and die from too rich.
You can try 1/2 turn in the mid-range needle and 1/2 turn out the low speed needle. It would help a little when you get back throttle.

Originally posted by Z00M
Engine did not sound lean where it revs up and then lacks fuel, it always ran ok when very hot. Piston was black but after the 333F run it was very clean.
I still believe your engine is ok. Juat make sure that you can see the smoke from tail pipe always. The thermometer may give you wrong data. Can you borrow a temp gun from your friend,and measure the temp of plug. Tell us how much different of them.
dino.tw is offline  
Old 07-30-2004, 12:54 PM
  #1054  
Tech Addict
 
f2000racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 501
Default

Can't emphasize this more than enough that STS should seriously look into this problem (leaking) if they want to stay in the market.

And yes, change that front bearing as well as I did. I actually exactly did all the sealing as what you've done. Ran the damn thing and thought it was finally fixed, but I guess what can you expect from the price you paid for this engine.


Originally posted by Z00M
It was still making good smoke everywhere. It just continued to get hotter and hotter. Before that run I checked the head button, I sealed the rear plate, carb where it mounts to the crank case, the main needle and fittings for the fuel inlet. When I was removing this demon engine from the car, I noticed that there was some fuel around the front bearing.

If a brand new engine is going to have a front bearing that is unserviceable then I doubt the rest of the HP claims or anything like that are going to be substantive.

If you want it for $100 Mr nightmare it's yours. But no cheating and putting a different carb on it!

As for going to visit the dudes at project ZEN, for the price of a plane ticket to the US, I could buy a number of decent engines that you can actually use easily, not STS ones.
f2000racer is offline  
Old 07-30-2004, 07:29 PM
  #1055  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
Z00M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,173
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Just to prove the point about the temp meter I am using. Yesterday I ran both a Navarossi NS12S3 Turbo and also a Rossi Pixy R12 Gold with no problems whatsoever and neither motor peaked beyong 240F on my temp meter and I ran them both with as much smoke from the exhaust as I did the STS and with the temp meter sensor sitting on the crank case like with the STS. So I am expecting that the official line will still be that I am doing something wrong but you have to expect that.

As for the STS, I have compared flow marks around the sleeve to the flow marks on the NS12 and they are significantly different. The STS sleeve supports are straight up and down in the transfer port area, while on the Novarossi, they are angled to direct the flow better. Also, the cuts in the sleeve at the transfer port are not symetrical from one side to the other, so I wonder if I am getting an incorrect swirl pattern and this may then be giving me probs with the mixture in the motor. I will clean up the sleeve and will report back when I have tried it and see if there is any difference.

I hate being beaten by mechanical things so I guess this motor can become my project and hopefully the factory might listen to any outcomes I find to make things better for other buyers in the future.
Z00M is offline  
Old 07-31-2004, 05:06 AM
  #1056  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 139
Default

Originally posted by Z00M
Just to prove the point about the temp meter I am using. Yesterday I ran both a Navarossi NS12S3 Turbo and also a Rossi Pixy R12 Gold with no problems whatsoever and neither motor peaked beyong 240F on my temp meter and I ran them both with as much smoke from the exhaust as I did the STS and with the temp meter sensor sitting on the crank case like with the STS. So I am expecting that the official line will still be that I am doing something wrong but you have to expect that.

As for the STS, I have compared flow marks around the sleeve to the flow marks on the NS12 and they are significantly different. The STS sleeve supports are straight up and down in the transfer port area, while on the Novarossi, they are angled to direct the flow better. Also, the cuts in the sleeve at the transfer port are not symetrical from one side to the other, so I wonder if I am getting an incorrect swirl pattern and this may then be giving me probs with the mixture in the motor. I will clean up the sleeve and will report back when I have tried it and see if there is any difference.

I hate being beaten by mechanical things so I guess this motor can become my project and hopefully the factory might listen to any outcomes I find to make things better for other buyers in the future.

Zoom, I'm having similar problems with my D5. I went through all the steps that Dino explained with run-in and troubleshooting.. Unfortunately It's running hot as.. Tuning is also very hard as it's unstable.

After changing the fuel, pipe, and the car, still no luck...

I discovered that I have a leak in the front bearing and maybe some other issues?

D5 is my second STS engine. The first one was too running too hot (STS 12) and it had a very short life.. :-(

After sales support is really good and that's why I got the second STS engine... But next time I'd rather get a better engine from a factory that has no support in these threads????
GUNPOWDER is offline  
Old 07-31-2004, 05:34 AM
  #1057  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NSW Australia
Posts: 1,296
Default

Anyone played with the STS .21 buggy engine yet?
au_Nightmare is offline  
Old 07-31-2004, 05:47 AM
  #1058  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NSW Australia
Posts: 1,296
Default

I had more problems with my sirio .12 trp then the STS D5 thats for sure, darn these little .12's, .21's are so much easier hehehe

And to quote madness out of the sirio thread:
Originally posted by madness
Darkside: Here's a pic of a blown Nova Rossi Engine. I have been in the Hobby for about 12 years and Sirios hasn't been the only engine with "quality" problems. This guy was running at 250 degrees, a perfectly "race" temperature.

and...
Originally posted by madness
ANother photo of a Mugen MT-12 engine which popped in the middle of a race (A-Main). As you can see my friend, NO engine manufacturer ins flawless, I have learned that with time and experience.

So Everyone has bad engines, just at what % is the Question
au_Nightmare is offline  
Old 07-31-2004, 06:33 AM
  #1059  
Nitro Tech
 
dino.tw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: I can drive!
Posts: 1,459
Default

I would like to thank you for all of your comments and suggestions. No matter those comments are good or not,they are the motivity to us. I report everything to our factory everyday. We do pay much attention on consumer's problems. We do our best to promote product's quality day and night. Anyway,thank you guys.

Last edited by dino.tw; 07-31-2004 at 08:14 AM.
dino.tw is offline  
Old 07-31-2004, 03:35 PM
  #1060  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (4)
 
ImGoinRCn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
Posts: 2,309
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Hello,
Can anyone tell me the dimentions of the bearings inside teh STS R3 engine? It has an SG crank. Will all .12 bearings for an SG crank work? Can I buy these bearings here in the states? Thanks for any and all help.
ImGoinRCn is offline  
Old 07-31-2004, 04:00 PM
  #1061  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
 
20 SMOKE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: HVR_ WEEKI WACHEE FL
Posts: 10,437
Trader Rating: 103 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by ImGoinRCn
Hello,
Can anyone tell me the dimentions of the bearings inside teh STS R3 engine? It has an SG crank. Will all .12 bearings for an SG crank work? Can I buy these bearings here in the states? Thanks for any and all help.
http://www.projectzen.net there here in the US
20 SMOKE is offline  
Old 07-31-2004, 08:08 PM
  #1062  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (4)
 
ImGoinRCn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
Posts: 2,309
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
http://www.projectzen.net there here in the US
Thank you sir!
ImGoinRCn is offline  
Old 08-01-2004, 01:53 AM
  #1063  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NSW Australia
Posts: 1,296
Default Hey dino, some photos..

Dino, a photo is worth a thousand words so..
First 2 are the top of the piston after about 40 - 50mins of racing. 3rd is after rub with rag to show what was easy to remove and whats stuck. (Piston was cleaned day b4 racing) Max temp I got was 210F, the other time I check after 14mins solid driving it was around 190F - 200F (sometimes less, like 185F, not sure now, temps checked with Infra Red probe)
Richer HSN - after a number of laps engine would cut out when applying throttle.


Running Medium OS plug, mid range is already 1/2 turn in, should I lean mid range further, maybe colder plug?
Maybe LSN too rich (does not seem like it though) causing me to run a lean HSN?
Going from internet weather station air temp was 8.1deg C at 10am, 14deg C at 3pm so 200F seems ok for temp?
au_Nightmare is offline  
Old 08-01-2004, 09:02 PM
  #1064  
Tech Addict
 
racecar850's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Independence, MO
Posts: 562
Exclamation MILES PER GALLON

i think some of you guys are trying to hard....
Ran a 150 lap race today...pushing the STS D3 in an MTX-3 (ran 1 gallon thru so far) to a 8 minute run time (240 degF max temp on a 90+ deg day)

Two thumbs up Dino
racecar850 is offline  
Old 08-01-2004, 09:03 PM
  #1065  
Tech Addict
 
racecar850's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Independence, MO
Posts: 562
Talking FORGOT

30% Odonnel...
racecar850 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.