Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

I just checked STS D21T , it has 6-7 threads. All the plugs I look at for turbo I dont see long or short references unless I search for them. So the standard turbo plug is what you want , im not sure if standard plug is short or long version , but it is the standard version that most everyone carries.

I checked a few plugs from different manufacturers and it looks like they range from 5-6 threads.

Couldnt find a long plug to reference threads.

au_Nightmare

Hmm I'd do a full (correct) retune. starting from idle.
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=2242&exp=13&sn=2

I had a headache with my old D5 with a too low idle setting masked by the LSN needle (it sounded normal) that caused the slingshot effect you speak of. Got great run time though, over 20mins (yes HSN lean hehe).
Fuel was also an issue for me - I was running 18% oil, now running 11% oil and much happier.

BTW OD 77T should be fine, thats what I run & Recommend and it's a HOT plug not Med from the info I have.

sook

I first ran this engine with the vr12 pipe and it just seems fast through the break in process with the os p6 plug (hot). I liked the way the engine was performing, but I thought the hsn was a bit touchy on incremental settings. It ran fine with the vr12 pipe and would probably do fine in a race, but I have replaced the pipe with the old sts .12 roar legal pipe and it seems to have much better results. I have the lsn set out to at least 6 1/2 and the hsn out to just under 2. At this setting, I am able to idle and burn out on the stock mtx4 gearing. I do have the clutch nut set at around .87. It just seems like it will be race worthy against all the big engine makers, but we will see this weekend. I do like the shorter sts pipe for this engine over the vr12 pipe, but I will try both out just to make note of the differences. So far, not under racing conditions, it effects the high end needle and low end. I am able to close more on both, but then again the engine may becoming broken in. Let me know your findings Onnetz

afm

Actually it is confusing because some are used to designating short and long turbo plugs to Novarossi's cold or hot plugs, so here is the explanation.

HOT BODY (LONG) TURBO PLUGS (70 to 100% humidity)

Novarossi Turbo Glow Plug Long Body Hot (C5TC)

Novarossi Turbo Glow Plug Long Body Med (C6TC)

Novarssi Turbo Glow Plug Long Body Cold (C7TC)

Novarossi Turbo Glow Plug Long Body Very Cold (C8TC)

COLD BODY (SHORT) TURBO PLUGS (40 to 70% humidity)

Novarossi Turbo Glow Plug Short Body Hot (C5TF)

Novarossi Turbo Plug Short Body Med (C6TF)

Novarossi Turbo Glow Plug Short Body Cold (C7TF)

Novarossi Turbo Glow Plug Short Body Very Cold (C8TF)

In both cases, if there is a "G" between the T and the F or C designation it just means it is Gold Plated, or as Novarossi calls them "Ultra Glow Plug"

One more thing, Picco based plugs and Novarossi based plugs are different in the thread area. Don't use Picco based plugs on Nova based engines and viceversa.

Hope this clarifies the issue

AFM

onnetz

from the info I found, the 0d077 is a standard hot plug..
the 0d077T is a medium range turbo plug..

my runtimes are normal and the hsn is still on the rich side......
my idle may be a bit low though.....

onnetz

I'm just coming out of the woods on breakin also and the hsn is still on the rich side.... the ths pipe I used for most of breakin had a 7mm stinger, so switching to the vr12 I had to lean both needles out just to get it moving.

do you have the 3 or 5 port? mine is the 5..

I'm pretty much at sea level and about 100 yards from the water.. I can go 1/2 a mile up the road and be at 1000 ft so tuning around here is pretty touchy depending on the weather(and it changes hourly).... its good though because it really makes me pay more attention to the sound, feel, and temp of the engine..

I'm going to try idling it up a bit and see what that gets me and if that doesnt seem to help then I will start to lean out the lsn a bit more..

ps.
I dont recommend changing kits, pipes, and radio all at the same time.. especially not while just finishing breakin on an engine..

sook

funny Onnetz. I changed the sts pipe out from the vr12 just to see if I could get it to settle down on tuning purposes. I also changed the glow plug to the novarossi short ultra med. It temps at around 202f, but I will see if it does not do any better under racing conditions this weekend on a bigger track. I am running the 3 port version and will try the vr12 plus pipe when I can. I like the way the d12x idles, it will idle through an entire tank if I let it. low end seems really torquey on this engine. I like the d3r also, but will keep it for the club racing and backup.

onnetz

being very torquey on the low end is the way it was before and now I'm trying to find it again... with any luck I will get it sorted out today and let you know my findings.....

also my temps are around 190f.....
fuel is wildcat eliminator pro 20%.... over two litres and the internals still look brand new.......

sook

Keep in mind that the vr12 pipe is just a bit longer than the pipe I have on it now. The sts legal .12 is at least 3 or 4 mm shorter than the vr12. Good luck. maybe we can compare notes by the beginning of next week. Let me know your final settings on the hsn and lsn.
Byrons 30% racing fuel, internals look great with still a tremendous amount of pinch after 10 tanks of fuel.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Yes you guys are running some of the best fuels in the US. Your lucky to have that available locally.

I highly reccomend if your in the US to run these fuels in your STS motors:

Wildcat Fuel - which makes (hpi power fuel , trinity fuel)
Byrons Fuel - which also makes (mugen seiki fuel)
Sidewinder Fuel - (aka morgan fuels)

Ive been doing research on these fuels for quite some time and im working up to a massive test between 6 different major fuel brands. But so far from my research and testing these guys offer the highest quality lubricants and nitro's. Lots of other companies use lower grade lubricants and nitro , which contains unwanted by products which produce gumming, staining and unpleasant smells and burning of the eyes and nose when running.

After 2 quarts of wildcat on my motor it looks brand new. Ive never experienced this with other lower grade fuels which I dont want to mention since Ive done enough bashing on them anyways.

But with these fuels I have mentioned. Ive found tuning to become easier , more power, more reliable motors, smoother transition and midrange, motors look like they havent been run , reduced wear , increased cooling and the list goes on and on.

Before with the lower quality fuels. I was experiencing scorched and highly gummed pistons crowns , gummed cranks , bearings , rust , hard starts , less power.... It almost amazes me that these companies some of them are even highly reccomended by some. Not only that some of these unwanted by products are also known to cause extra heat.

But those fuels above that I named are what I call the TOP 3 in the US , its always good to run a High Quality fuel cause thats just one less problem for your motor and tuning. In fact its a benefit to your motors power, life and tuning.

onnetz

after 10 tanks of fuel, I'd say your about half way through break in...
I'm over 2 litres and still dont consider it to be fully broken in yet.
you can still feel it get caught at tdc.....

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Id say it needs probably a good gallon through it before you really start to see what the motor is about. Around 4 liters in a gallon.

I noticed once I got it to be able to run on the straight with overly rich settings without flaming out this was when the motor became ready to tune to max power. Otherwise it would flame out a bit if I didnt have the tune just right and even then I believe its setup to where it cant run right until this point. So its rich and boggy for a little , usual for break-in. But if you tried to lean to early this would also cause it to flame out.

Once I got it to run rich at wot, this was when I was also able to lean it proprely to get it to run incredibly.

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

What is this Engine, can anyone tell me?
http://cgi.ebay.com/STS-1203-D12EX-3...QQcmdZViewItem

au_Nightmare

The economy .12 engine. It cant be #1203 because thats a .21
The R series (Competition engine) is $30 more so...........
Ebay link for $130 one.

http://www.stsrc.com.tw/products.php
D12E (#1201 / #1202)
New Economy Series
Cylinder Contents : 2.11cc
Bore: 13.80mm / Stroke: 14.00mm
Crankshaft : 12mm SG or STD
Carburetor : 3 Needles Slide 5.5 mm
Piston / Sleeve : ABC 3P
Glow-plug : Standard
Use : 1/10 on-road;1/10 off-road

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Actually that information is off. Its understandable though cause its a different setup than the other STS motors. If you want the true specs of this motor I can give it to you , its the latest arrival from STS. I also have a few of these in stock as well already have a bud running one and the STS pipe , it sounded amazing. I call it the "sport" motor, cause its a tad better than the E series.

Its a different fit in the STS line but if your looking to save 30 bucks over the d3r its worthwhile , especially if you dont race state races with it. Ill let you know why , because this motor is essentially illegal. Its also a bit advanced over the d3r , but at the same time its lacking in another area. Reason why I say its wild fit. Took me about a month to figure out the difference between it and the D3R.

http://www.pro-hobby.net/shop/images..._prohobby1.jpg

http://www.pro-hobby.net/shop/sts.html - You can find the actual details on the motor specs at that page.

Let me know if your interested, I also have the option part to make this motor legal. PM me and I can give you the full scoop. Its kinda a long explanation.