Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

So with any d3r motor the inside of the crank needs to be polished a bit? So they blubber a bit on the low end? If so thanks for the advice.

I have some mothers polish that should work right?

Pictures would be great.

nsxshogun

Thats what I'm wondering. I just got a used one from ebay. only 70 shipped. I'm gonna order a piston and sleeve set and probaly a con rod from project zen. I emailed the guy about them and he said he can get me the P/S set for 40 shipped. Also could some one tell me all about the motor like the temps it likes to be ran at, needle settings, and all that jazz.

nsxshogun

Also how many head shims and what type and temp of plug should I run with 25% nitro.

rcosmax

I dont think this is a general rule. Bundy is running his sts internals in a nova case. i would recomend breakin as per the instruction manual and after you do you post breakin inspection check the crank for wear and polish the section that rubs. (if there is any) I think it would be a bad idea to do it before running it to see if there IS any wear because you may polish something that could decrease performance.

Philth

Hi all
i have just purchased a new g4 mongoose and i'm looking for a new motor.
Maybe looking at the D5r+tuned pipe set outlaw 6.0 combo , just wondering everyones opinion on this combo...

thankyou

wangcc61

I just want to add more info to my own post.
I got a D3R from Geoff couple months ago and I believed it was modified before I got it. Anyway, this engine is still running strong after 3 gallons and here is the measurement of the port timings.

STS D3R
Schnuerle: 116
Boost: 114
Exhaust: 156 Degree
Induction: 236 deg. (24 ABDC - 80 ATDC)

If you noticed the induction timing, it was retarded so much compared to stock one. I also noticed this D3R has different chape of conrod (both side of the conrod have grooves), and the fit between the piston and sleeve is tighter.

By the way, I also took the measurement of the new parts in case you need to compare to your engine to see if it has worn out or not.

Conrod: 4.32mm in diameter for crankshaft pin, and 3.94mm in diameter for wrist pin.
Wristpin: 3.88mm in diameter.
Crankshaft pin: 4.28mm in diameter.
The inaccuracy is 0.01mm to 0.02mm

Oh, last week I try to run-in the rebuilt D5 (6 gallons through before rebuilding; only replaced the P/S/Rod), it started to eat my glow plugs. After inspecting the components, I found out the crankshaft pin was only 4.11mm in diameter and I saw the damaging on the piston and button head due to detonation. I guess the worn out crankshaft had the same result as taking out the head shims.

wangcc61

I think you will love it.....
You will love it more if you get a lola body for it.....

afm

[QUOTE=wangcc61]........................

Oh, last week I try to run-in the rebuilt D5 (6 gallons through before rebuilding; only replaced the P/S/Rod), it started to eat my glow plugs. After inspecting the components, I found out the crankshaft pin was only 4.11mm in diameter and I saw the damaging on the piston and button head due to detonation. I guess the worn out crankshaft had the same result as taking out the head shims. QUOTE]

Just to complement your exellent post on STS timings, this is what the factory says about wearing rate.

AFM

"Running hotter is OK for STS engines, you only need to take care of the crankpin wearing rate.
The new one is 4.29mm diameter. When it is smaller than 4.25mm, don't use it on a race.
When its smaller than 4.2mm, the engine will break.
Running at 120ºC is OK, but 130ºC still OK!!! but you need to watch out the crankpin and conrod hole size. If all parts are in good condition, running under high temp. is OK for winning !!!"

Dino
STS Racing

tazman34685

Can any point me in a good direction to go in porting my stock STS D3, which I think is a short stroke motor only good on short tracks. Attached is a Picture of the track I would like to run it on. Thanks

rge63

Dino
Where are you temping the engine
I recently raced a D5R, It really didnt want to run well until temps were above 240f/115c.. block temp seems to a bit hotter than the bottom of cooling head.
I am racing oval so it is running wide open most of the way around the track.!! which is too bad this engine has some bottom end torque

dino.tw

I usual measure the bottom of cooling head. You need taller gearing and shorter pipe/manifold.

dino.tw

Raise the exhaust port to 4.5mm

BundyMan

Wow dino is back after a long absence!!

gunna do

iTrader: (1)

Hi Dino my name is Brett from Brisbane Australia.Just talking to Alan and he was saying that he wont be suppling engines anymore and that i wont be able to get them from Hong Kong either.It's not good news as i am currently sitting on top of the ladder at my club,and that is competing against the top brands of engines.If you have any insight of what is going on, and where i can get a continuios source of motors and parts it will be greatly appreciated as i am still kean to race the engines as i know that they are very reliable.
Thanks Brett

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Hey just got my d3r motor today. Really happy, Looks great. One question though. What does the top of the heatsink look like. Mine is completely black. I thought it would say d3r on top of it.

Let me know.