That would probably be BIG dollars. One person buying them then having to distribute them all over the world. But if thats what we have to do, thats what we have to do.

Probably the best thing we could do is get that guy on this board! Anybody know how to contact him?? Show him this thread, let him know there is interest in his product.

http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/4_stroke.html

I used this when I did mine 2 years ago.

cool, but i dont think that will work with the 3d clutch. that only works with the std clutch.

you can any photos of your setup from 3 years ago?

->NiMo: Thanks a lot, that eliminates the gearing problem for me! Now that you mention it I remember seeing the option a couple of years ago, but not really finding it useful to me I forgot all about it. It's ordered and on its way

Looks like I'll end up ordering the 4-stroke conversion kit for the RRR then

->Nolan farmer: Any progress on those heads? That head would fit nicely in my car......

@ Nolan Farmer,

I'm on this tread for several months now and are a happy 4 stroker as you can see in this tread.

What would this new head bring me ? Ok, I can see that the intake manifold is at 90 degrees which is great, but does it do anything else ? Has it more power, higher rpm's ?

I'm very impressed with the work you do !

I have one of those fan kits from an old V-one. It's really not a very good fit for the RRR but you could adapt it. They ran the fans on the low end 2 strokes. Worked great until you threw the belt and cooked the engine.

Nice video! LOVE the sound of the engine. Lotsa torque. sweet.
Has anyone tried to put a thumper in a Monster GT? We have one and i think it would be cool. We dont have an offroad track locally (Victoria B.C.) yet but we run touring cars, I wouldnt mind trying to put one in my NTC3, but there seems to be quite a bit of custom work to be done, if they ever come out with a conversion kit, like crank, clutch, cooling etc I would definately go for it. I think its the future for rc, more so for offroad.
Cheers

Quote...."What would this new head bring me ? Ok, I can see that the intake manifold is at 90 degrees which is great, but does it do anything else ? Has it more power, higher rpm's ?"

Hopefully the new shape of the ports that are shown previously in the forum will improve flow and produce more horsepower and TQ.

I have five heads done with one running on a bench setup. It revs very fast with a large steel flywheel from the FS40 I threw on it. It also has a more pronouced "pop" to it. I have not had much time to spend on it lately so I just sent one out to be tested by someone else with more experience with this motor. If it works out we will get one on Mxwrenches dyno soon.

I will probably put one or two of these heads on eBay when I am confident of a good product.

Nolan

gee this thread went quiet all of a sudden.......


anyone got anymore pics? need something to talk about!!!!

For those of you that have changed to the 2-needle carb what are your settings, especially the low side....I figure it is different from the .12 I took it from. I know everyone will have different settings but looking for a baseline.

Not much to tell from the netherlands, almost done doing my second gallon !

Car is fast, checked valves a couple of time, but never was it needed to adjust major.

I simply love this car running it on a tight almost mickey mouse track.
Didn't use the 2 stroke car now for 2 months......

Run indeed the two needle rotary carb, adjusting LSN is a little tricky, because when you touch the needle, you actually push it back, killing the fuel. So I adjust in very little steps, when the engine is not running. HSN needle is very easy. Just tune for max speed, en make sure that even on top speed you still see smoke (more then with a 2 stroke). If you go lower you will find that the engine rev's higher, but get's way to hot and then looses power very fast.

Aways proud to tell that it runs faster then a stock engine 1:10 and getting close to the real engines (sirio, mega, TZ etc..)

Engine has one downside running it in on road... it's not much heavier then a 2 stroke, but it has a very heavy head... so the weight balance is not as good in my fw05rr with the TZ.

But the sound and the torque gives you alll the fun to drive it !

What temps are you seeing? Unless it's over 250F (temp the cylinder, not the head), it might just be warming up. When race tuning with the 2 needle carb, it'll change tune once it reaches operating temperature, usually above 200F. Always tune after warming it up. When tuned properly, it'll act lean when it's cold: It'll idle fast and lean-bog when you give it full-throttle (or flame out if you hold it open too long). After warmup, it'll idle down nicely, respond crisply, and run clean and strong on top. Also, if you're using the low-smoke fuel, it won't smoke much at all except at idle.

I do get about 285F on the cylinder when it starts to power down on the straight. Car is then also impossible to pick up, chassis gets hot too !
My idea was that the engine was running to lean then.
Now it runs still hot, about 220-230 but runs smootly with very little smoke full speed on the straight part of the track.

I indeed have the behaviour that it runs a little difficult when it's cold, but nothing major, just give it two corners and it's running great !

I do use the low smoke.. but it still smokes when it drives away and when iddling, on top hardly. So I guess I could still lean it a little on the middle and low trottle.... But it runs great like it is

That is HOT!! Definately overheating. You might want to look into getting a larger diameter fan belt drive pulley made, or figure out a way to place the fan closer to the engine. The tiny cooling fins on these engines were designed to have a propeller cooling them, and at half the RPM and power we are getting.

If you want to get every ounce of power and RPM out of your engine, and you have access to a lathe, you might be able to narrow the flywheel and move the engine back a few millimeters so you have enough room to put a pulley behind the flywheel. If you do this, make the pulley groove the same diameter as the outside bearing race of the front crank bearing. Turn the fan around so it's as close as possible to the engine, and build a mounting bracket that keeps good belt tension and alignment.

This will make the fan cool the engine as efficiently as possible, and allow it to make as much power as the engine is capable of making without overheating. Having the fan close to the engine with a large drive pulley has worked best for me on both the FS26 and FS52.

I also figured out the same thing, was already looking for bigger pulley.
But this was more to cool it... chassis is really hot after running 15 min !

The 220F is not too high for this engine I presume ?? Runs fine with this temp !

I have it on top of the clutch, pretty close to the engine, closer wil be difficult.

But again... it's a .5HP engine and with current setup I'm way faster then de stock 2 strokes, which also have .5 - .6HP.