I don't think so. The Dynamite pipes have a different header connection configuration. I don't think it will fit correctly on to the 2072 header. I remember trying that a while ago. I think you will find the 2072 header is a very loose fit on the 086 pipe.
The GXII is super smooth and has nice bottom end with the Dynamite 053. That would be my choice over the 086 for this particular motor.

Okay thanks. I ended buying the hole exhaust(053) system from A-main.

You can keep the old pipe for backup if you have enough extra wire sticking out of the top to put a pipe mount above the end of the pipe so it doesn't come off. I've had to do that in a pinch with my GX5R/086 when I stripped out the threads for the second time. Drilled and re-tapped the first time. The GX5R was bought at a bargain when the GXII was just arriving. Now it's getting bagged up and stored for the 2012 Nitro Challenge in February as backup engine.

GXII arrived Friday, hoping to make this my main powerplant for the event. My track is closed next week so it's the perfect opportunity for break-in before the NC warmup race November 5th. If anyone is planning on making the trip to AZ for the February race, I'll have a trailer setup so stop by and say hey.

Hey SNOOKS, for these tests:
What size restrictor you running?
What pipe?

Has anyone else done any truggy runtime tests with different pipes on the GXII? I'm running GX5R/086/M2C 6026 4shoe 1.05springs right now and I love the speed/power, and I get about 9mins on our big track. I'll report back after I break-in the GXII.

Running the GO EFRA 2072 pipe (definitely the preferred pipe for power and economy on the GXII) truggy guys here are seeing 11 min plus out of the GXII.
One racer with this combo in his Serpent truggy has seen 12.30

Was running 6.5 restrictor and 2072 pipe. idle gap.06 mm, H/S needle 5 hrs in from flush, L/S needle 11 hrs in from flush (almost a full turn). I always preheat my engines before starting and do not touch any needle settings untill I have done 2 tanks of fuel to heat soak the chassis. I have found the GX11 very touchy in the final tweeking of the needles, compared to earlier GO motors. "Small is GOOD" in that area of things! This runs the engine on the lean side of things, but if you take the time, and continually monitor the glow plug colour, all should be fine. I never tune to a temp, every motor and track condition is different. As a point of reference, the temp check was 290 degrees F, on average. As I said keep an eye on the glow plug, it is a true measure of tuning mixtures. I apply this to all my engine, NOVA, RB, GO and GODZILLA. Everybody has there own method, this works in my area because of high humidity, but would be a little on the lean side if one was in a cooler ,dryer climate.
Hope this helps
P.S. the temperature is often 28-32 degrees Centergrade, with 55-80 percent(95% in the wet season which last for 3 months) humidity where I live. (Cairns, North Queensland, Australia)

Thred repairs
 

Suggestion! you can buy what is called a "HELI-COIL" set. It is a stainless steel thread insert that replace the stripped thread. It is very easy to use and can be purchased from most nut and bolt specialist stores. You simply drill out the old broken piece of allen wrench or screw, using the over-sized drill suppled in the kit, thread the drilled hole,with tap supplied in the kit, and then screw in the stainless thread supplied. The thread is way stronger than original aluminiun thread, and if you apply low strength thread retainer to your screws( eg: LOCTITE 222), you will have no problems with broken screws. I have found from personal experience DO NOT use a high strength screw retaining compound in RC Cars, There is a high chance you strip the head in screws or break things trying to undo them, if you do.:nod: I have a 3mm and 4mm set that I use, and have replaced the thread on engine mount and exhaust pipes and mounts with great success. A small outlay for a big saving.:nod:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...d-img_1704.jpg


12mm is a smidge on the big side, isn't it?
:D :D :D

Thanks for the suggestion. I am familiar with heli-coils. I think what i can do is drill/clean out the set screw where the wire goes through and use the other side which it looks like it has threads. I can't believe it hasn't vibrated out yet.

well by the way things are looking around in my area, my racing season has come to an end. now i've chimed in here and there with various questions and comments, but never really said alot concerning what i thought about the gxII...soooo.....


this season i've ran almost 6 gallons thru my gxII/2072 combo on ALL types of tracks. there were high points, and a couple low ones, but over all I LOVE THIS MOTOR (i'm happy enough to say i'm sticking with GO engines for the 2012 season)!!! perfect balance of power and dependability, even with a couple quirks to iron out (it doesn't matter who builds it, early production, runs will have their little issues i have motor number 26 in the USA). luckily, with the help of Matt from nitro-north.com, things were taken care of!!!

hints for new and old racers alike concerning the gxII....

after the first gallon pay close attention to the bearings, they will most likely need changing (i advise using avid bearings)

if all of a sudden your tune seems to get more and more difficult to maintain, check the carb o-rings. i went thru 3 sets until i figured out there is a small burr inside both the top needle housing and the carb slide chewing up the needle o-rings.

if (for some strange reason) your looking for even more bottom end power, and fuel milage, but still want to keep the top end, use a tq or grp carb, just this change really makes this motor nasty as hell!!!!

that strange to have bearing problems with a GXII, we have run up to 6 gallons on a set of original bearing and they still were in good condition...that motor also was from the first batch of motors, glad its all sorted out now and your still happy with them.

Hey snooks, that sounds a bit lean on the lsn, do you have to run it like that with the high temps and humidity?
have you tried going a bit richer on the lsn and a fraction more idle?
At almost a full turn in on the lsn you would be getting bugger all fuel at idle, try blowing through your fuel line with the carb closed and you'll see what I mean.
sounds like your on to it with your tuning so just a suggestion mate.

ya bearings aren't a big deal....have yet to own a motor that as some point in time doesn't need them.


and to be perfectly honest, i feel i could get @8 gallons before the need for a pinch....once the motor lost it's metal pinch i was leary, but the feel of the motor (cold or warm) hasn't changed in 2 gallons :nod: ( i REALLY need to move somewhere i can race year long...I HATE WINTER!!!!)

Know what you mean. I thought that myself when I tried blowing through the fuel line after getting the idle air gap set and the idle smooth,and snappy acceleration. The motor is very crisp from idle to top revs, even at almost empty tank, it doesn't suffer from "lean bog" because of low tank pressure,( which indicates that the h/s needle is tuned correctly),The high heat and humidity certainly does play a part in the tuning, but on that note, another club member has to run very similar settings to get the same results. At 1/2 a turn in, it is just ok ,but loads up at idle. I have tried various idle gap settings etc., but at the setting I have mentioned it is a perfect tune. I change to a fresh air cleaner every heat and keep my fuel out of the sun and in a cool esky. The old pinch test of approx seven seconds when cold, and approx 4 seconds when hot falls into place perfectly. One thing for sure, it is a very easy motor to drive with. I have 3 more GX11 in the stables, and will keep you informed if they too require similar settings. Thanks for the feedback, it is through forums like this that we can all learn a lot. Greatly appreciated.:nod:
P.S. I have never experienced bearing problems in any GO motor to date, and I have been through at least seven in the past, but like any mass produced item, there is always some that don't meet spec. Have had "O Ring" problems mainly.

Na, it matches the horsepower I get from my engines:lol:

thats good to hear all is good, different fuels,and even tank designs can make quite a difference in tuning...what plugs work best for your hot humid weather?
down here in NZ we're mostly at sea level and it rearly gets over 30C...I run OD97T and 30% nitroX
Hustler, i sympathise with you, we are just comming out of winter and have no indoor tracks in NZ for nitro or 1/8th...luckily we still get outdoor racing through winter with a lot of track work and pumping off water :rolleyes: