i dont really care how they are made, as long as they make my buggy/truggy go fast im good!:D, atleast i know a piston is not tapered:lol::lol:

Hustler, its only the top few mms of the piston that wears until its so wornout and is slapping around in the sleeve..and the taper on the sleeve isn't that great either.

you should be able to tell the piston wear area by its clean alloy looking appearence, just above and below the top oil groove and above botton oil groove, the rest of it below there will have a sort of stained colour.

if your seeing a lot more wear on the exhaust side the motors been working hard.

Post us a pic of your piston if you have one or are able to.

hey guys... just in case you were wondering, the site's been hacked. Our web team has been working on the back-end, but I had the site shut down until we can fix it. That way it's not sending out spam. Sorry for the inconvenience...

SUCK!! :eek:

One stupid question - I've got scratched backplate and conrod on my GXII-RHO. Do I have to look into new conrod or something? I'm new to nitro engines so I really don't know what causes this. Engine has about 9l through and ran strong lately so I didn't notice lack of power. It's just when I decided to put in after run oil for storing it over winter I found that during disassembly.

You do see a little scuffing occasionally on the back plate / big end. There is very little tolerance in there and the rod ends are "floating" as such. It will be fine. Oil it up and store it away for next spring.

I thought so, just wanted to be sure. I've put after run oil in through all holes to make sure everything is conserved well :D It's one really nice engine so I want keep it in good condition.

Kool, I hope you run out all fuel in the crank case after every weekends use and add a few drops down the spark plug hole also... I too strip it down and fully oil everything for storage, but I still do a small after run oil before leaving the track just incase I don't get time to oil it propperly throu the week.

Make sure you pull the crank fully forward while pushing the flywheel collet hard up against the front bearing before placing the flywheel and clutch nut, yes it only moves a little but I'm a bit pedantic about the little things, peace of mind knowing it isn't going to rub too much on the back plate, as said above it isn't realy an issue but I'm just a picky SOB when it comes to my maintenance and build regeme ;)

i thought after run oil was crackin a tinny at the end of the meet to oil up the throat from eating dust all day flanno, awell 35 lt before the first rod change in the MG must say something for massives motors & fuels :lol:

PS: for the anal ones, i'm abuse testing this motor but my others receive the appropriate care. :nod:

good tips there for someone new to nitro engines, those collets are quite a tight fit on the crank so force it hard toward the bearing with your thumb nail while pulling back on the crank, should be almost no movement, when putting the clutchnut on i was tought to do it up, undo the nut and then re-tighten it good and firm.

good to here the GXII is going well for you Pavel, our 1/8th nitro club has seen a number of E racers getting into nitro, the ones that choose that motor are also very happy.

Yea it indeed went well for me - finished 3rd overall in National ranking (5pts behind 2nd place) so it was indeed good first season for me.

Hi all,
was running my RC8B Associated Buggy with a GXII around a practice session at the home track in Cairns, North Queensland, Australia last weekend, and ran a "tank time" test. 30 degrees C, 59% humidity, running a O' Donnel 97T plug,. Engine tune so the plug is just moist on the element, slight greying around edge of plug and running NEO+ 25% nitro fuel, and 4 litres of fuel through it. A club member was double checking run time. A run time of, wait for it!!; 13.27 minutes. A second test of 12.58 minutes and consistent runs of 12.26 minutes, (under race conditions) were done on the same day. The motor has 16/44 gearing, 2x1.00/1x1.1 clutch springs and run standard alloy associated clutch shoes. I was amazed, as were other club members!! Have nothing but praise for these motors, now have 4 in my collection. I have just aquired a "GODZILLA .21 Buggy engine from MARK ,the guru of engine mods in AUSTRALIA, will be interesting to compare the 2 motors. :nod:

Snooks i think your gunna like the zilla, just drop down .1 in your clutch springs to 2x.9 & 1x1.0 so you don't dig trenches in the track :sneaky::lol:

Thanks mate: our local track is fairly hard, and has some large double and tripple jumps(tripple,1 metre high take off ramps and 6 meters long, end to end, and some instant grunt is required to clear them with ease: will try my original spring settings and also try your suggestion to compare. A few trenches may make it interesting:lol: Thanks for the feedback, greatly appreciated.:nod: