YuP sounds like this is it but how do I make it the right gap tried measuring and tried the cool pinch method and still can't get it right

No I'm no newbee have been doing this for 20 yrs just can't seem to get it right in the gos
This is my third go and still the same mistakes

Jojo thanks but am here in TX appreciate it

First thing - check the head bolts and pinch bolt screw. On a brand new motor these can de-torque due to the block expanding and contracting the first few tanks from brand new - so you may have a slight air leak there.

Other than that, your problem sounds like the common error a lot of new GO owners fall into that have never tuned a long needle LSN carb before.
As mentioned in the tuning guide on our website, you must not go in more than 2 - 3 HOURS on the HSN. If you do, you will get the lean bog below half a tank you are experiancing, plus the good smoke on the bottom initially then no smoke at the top end. This is explained fully in the tuning guide.

It also sounds like you have the idle gap too wide, which is further adding to your problems.
Set the idle gap by pinching the fuel line off with the motor running WHEN IT IS COLD - VERY IMPORTANT. IT MUST BE COLD.
If the revs chirp up quickly and are quite high - the idle gap is too big. Reduce the idle gap and re-pinch the line. What you are looking for is a slow and only very small rise in revs (about 500 rpm) which will rise up and stay steady - not keep on climbing. This indicates the correct idle gap for your set up on the motor.
Now flush both needles and tune from there. You will find approx 2 HOURS in on the HSN and approx 1/2 a turn in on the LSN will see you with a nice tune. Then fine tune it for day to day race conditions from there.

Biggest thing to remember is what Motto has just said - the LSN controls the fuel flow from idle right up to 95% full throttle. You must have the HSN rich enough (hence only the 2 hours in from flush) to allow enough fuel to flow to, and then past, the LSN right up to 95% power, as the LSN needle is partially blocking the receiver jet the fuel flows from up to the 95% power mark. Only during the last 5% of the power band does the LSN pull out of the receiver jet and the HSN take over fuel supply to the motor - unlike conventional short LSN carbs where the HSN takes over fully at around 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Totally different needles settings are required for these different systems.

I find thinking of your carb as a garden hose really helps. The HSN is the tap on the wall and the LSN is the nozzle on the end of the hose.
We all know what turning the tap on and off will do to the spray or jet we get out the adjustable nozzle on a garden hose - well this is exactly what the respective needles are doing in your carb. If you don't have the tap turned on enough (HSN rich enough), you won't get enough water out of the nozzle (LSN) to water the garden when you open it (not enough fuel to the motor - lean bog).

Hope that helps.

When I do the cold pinch test it just bogs down and dies close the gap and goes too high in idle

Bolts were checked as per website
I'm missing something looks like the gap is still off
Thanks

Not being funny, but are you sure that is the right way around ?

If the idle speed remains unchanged and then the motor dies - it normally points to the idle gap being too small, pretty much closed right off.

I can´t see how the revs can increase if you close the idle gap down.
Are you sure you are turning the idle screw the right way? (apologies if this seems like a silly question, but that is what it sounds like is happening).

Increase the idle gap - turn clockwise. Decrease the gap turn anti clockwise. Opposite to leaning and richening needles.

Only other possibility is that the HSN is so lean that it is chirping up in revs due to no fuel getting through at all just before it dies, which is a possibility.

Have you done the pinch test with both needles set at flush ?

Yes griz you are right
I meant clockwise turn on idle causing it to increase revs at idle
Yes both hsn and Lsn are flush

Will try it again Tom
It has been frustrating but you guys have been alot of help
Will redo everything Tom as in website And all info
This will be done
Thanks

OK. It only requires a small adjustment, like all the tuning on these motors. You are turning it the right way - but going too far perhaps.

If the pinch test is too confusing, just set it by sight.
Remove the restrictor so you can see the full throat of the carb, then adjust the idle gap to what looks like .5mm to 1mm. It is probably a smaller gap than you think. Replace the restrictor, set both needles to flush. Motor will start ok like this, then adjust top and bottom needles as described in previous post.

Very hard to fault find on here without being able to see or hear the motor.
Hopefully you will be able to meet up with Jojo soon and he can help you.

You are absolutely right griz
I did not account for the restrictor hence I had the idle gap too open and was trying to catch up with the other needles, lean hsn
Thanks again
Will readjust and will see

One other thing thats worth checking if a motor's hard to tune and running lean is to take out the hsn and check for any small bit of oring in the needle assembly and also make sure its done up tight, just a thought.
I was setting the idle gap by eye for years and when i checked it one day with a 0.5 drill bit I found i was a bit off, a 0.5 bit should look to be 2/3rds of the gap.

Hey guys. I'm running a GX5 with a 2072 pipe, O'Donnell Speed Blend 30% in a Mugen MBX-6. I've got my idle gap set at .7. I get the slow steady rise in rpm when doing the pinch test. I keep reading that the lsn shouldn't be far from flush but mine is 1 1/4 turns in from flush. I'm getting around 9 1/2 minutes run time. My hsn is 6 hours in and I have the 7.0 reducer in. Some of the guys are getting over 11 minutes of runtime in truggys. Is 1 1/4 turns in too lean? I've followed the steps in the tuning guide and have good smoke. I was thinking of leaning it out a couple of hours to get a little more snap off the bottom, or should I put the 6.5 reducer back in and tune from there? Any thoughts or suggestions?

that sounds about right for a GX 5R, you could go a bit leaner on the hsn if the tracks not got too long of a straight, to get 11 plus minutes in a buggyyou need to be easy on the gas...truggys bigger tank gives them more run time.
The GXII is the motor that you want to leave the lsn not far in from flush, the two motors need to be tuned a different method due to the shape of the needles.

setting idle air gap
 

Hi Guys, just a little tip on setting the idle air gap:
I use a set of CIG (Brand Name, or any other brand will do!!) Oxy / Accetelene tip cleaners : they are used to clear the tips on welding torches: there is usually 8-10 different sizes in the kit. I use the .65mm size, and slide it in between the cut-out in the slide and carby body, with good results .REMBER TO REMOVE THE RESTRICTOR BEFORE DOING SO!!. I have found this to be a good starting point , and can usually get the required tune fairly quickly. For those not familiar with these, they are round hardened spring steel, with a file like section in the middle of each size, and a perfectly round section on the end, usefull for cleaning suspension arms of depreis and dirt, and lots of other uses as well. A small investment and a very handy little tool set, available at any welding supply store and many hardwear stores. Hope you find this usefull.
Gotta love the new GX11'S, have run mine in now and is starting to hum , IF the durablity is there, Out go the NOVA ROSSI.(have purchased 3 more anyway, How's that for confidence!!)

just wanted to share results from this past weekend, Both GO GXII's where running very well, truggy could have been set up better but ran 3 classes and hard to do anything in between quilifers. Took second in both buggy Amain and truggy Amain, steve took first with a GO GX5R in both bug and trug. I also took 3rd in 4X4 shortcourse, (second time racing it).

8TH NITRO BUGGY A Main Round# 3, Race# 8

________________________Driver___Car#____Laps____R aceTime____Fast Lap___Behind_
Steve Marien #6 20 12:01.060 35.364
Mike Danials #4 20 12:08.508 33.630 7.448
Mike Roe #3 20 12:37.683 35.699 36.623
Randy Odell #2 17 12:02.258 38.212
Joe Bodley #1 17 12:23.443 34.397 21.185
Terry McBee #5 7 4:23.377 37.668

TRUGGY A Main Round# 3, Race# 10

________________________Driver___Car#____Laps____R aceTime____Fast Lap___Behind_
Steve Marien #6 20 12:20.633 35.771
Mike Danials #1 20 12:29.649 35.467 9.016
Scott Avery #2 15 12:22.175 35.125
Brad Orourke #5 8 4:40.991 35.187
Dylan Gilbert #4 3 1:28.230 38.567
Calvin Viernes #3 0 0.000

bump for a Sweeeeeet engine!!!!:nod:;) hows the go family out there??

Since you asked , I just built and installed my new m2c adjustable flywheel and clutch to tame that beast down! Can't wait for some track time:)

right on! i need to put softer springs on my losi clutch as well, i put all gold springs to see how i would like it and.....NOPE. need to but 2 green on with the gold. big race this weekend 3 hours south of here, 5 of us heading down from here. 2 of us have GO ENGINES (steve and myself) he has the GX5R In both bug and trug, i have the GXII in both, hes a good racer, my mission is to beat him this weekend!!!;)