Well i was trying to run a 6.5 insert with an os P3 plug on the 086 pipe. Flameouts all day long. At WOT it would backfire and die. Changed plugs and went to a 7.0 insert. This seemed to fix it immediately but seemed low on compression. It felt great yesterday, well for my driving style, im sure i could get more out of it once im able to control it better. Thanks for the explanation man.

For you guys with the new GX II HO. How would you say it compares to a Nova P5 as far as power, tuning ease, driveability, run times, and whatever else you can think of?
I'm considering getting one, but it's hard for me to step away from my Novas, they have never let me down.

Any recomodations for a clutch setup (3 shoe) for a Mugen Mbx6 with The new HO?

ive never run the P5, ive had the +4 for a while in the losi truggy, IMO, the GXII and NOVA PLUS4 are very very similar in regards to all mentioned above. im sure someone will chime in and give you alittle more percise awnser.

ive heard many good things about the GO 3 SHOE CLUTCH set-up:nod:

http://nitro-north.com/go-engine-parts.html


more info on clutch.......
http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...thread-65.html

Leave the factory shims in the GXII. The copper shim is NOT a break in shim.

The motors come fitted with 1 x .3mm alloy shim and 1 x .2mm coppoer shim.
If you remove the copper shim and run 30% with an ultra hot plug you are asking for trouble.

The GX Series motors used to come out with the alloy shim and 2 x .1mm copper shims. The guys removing a copper shim in previous posts on here are refering to taking one of the .1mm shims out only.
Just run it as it came in the box. That's how it's designed to be run.

Best recommendation - dump the 3 shoe and get an Ascendancy "Effortless" 4 shoe clutch and run it as it comes with 4 x alloy shoes and 4 x 1.0 springs initially. This clutch on the GXII is a sweet marriage. My racing buddy runs this set up on his MBX6 and just loves it.

Hi pickle311 - I have no experiance with the Nova motors either, but I can tell you the GXII is a very powerful and smooth motor.
Once fully broken in we are seeing 10 min run times in buggy no problem.
The motor is very, very drivable. Very linear powerband.
One of the guys I race with runs a Nova +4 and he has had several spins with the GXII and is very impressed with it. He commented on the smoothness and drivability also.
The new GXII's tune very easily, and hold their tune nicely. Lightweight (like 34g lighter then the GX Series, and probably your Nova).

Yes I sell the GXII motors - but only locally here in New Zealand (some 15,000 miles away from the US), so I am not angling for a sale. Just repeating what our customers are saying about the new GXII, and what we have found ourselves since we began racing them a few months ago.
If you gave one of these a try you would not be disapointed, of that I am sure. ;)

Dialed in and ready for morning!!!!:sneaky:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...s/ready001.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...s/ready002.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/.../ready1001.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/.../ready1002.jpg

watchin you now robert on rclive!!!! good luck bro!!!!!!


nice run robert!!! was hopeing 2 guys in front would break!!!! LMAO

question
 

Hi guys,

just wanted to ask.... has issue (no biggie) setup

Losi 2.0
GO GX2
Losi clutch shoes/spring
2 alum / gold
2 comp / green
just like ... 2 alum / 1.0 and 2 composite / .9 on other clutch setup.

Anyway. engine still rolls when i remove finger on throttle. Remove the engine.. (check if clutch shoes rub on bell which can cause the clutch to engage early..) but i spin the bell and it spins forever...

I tried richening low end... same.. car still rolls. Also tried to lower the idle... car still rolls. I did lower the idle too much that cause to engine to die.. ;)

Local PRO racer suggest that the spings are too soft which causes the clutch to engage too early...

I haven't tried to remove the bell to check ... as i was having too much fun that day that i ignored it... did 6 tanks straight on this situation, and no ill effect.. :) hope not... i think it was bad for the engine at this condition..

many thanks for the help... :)

Jojo

Could be a clutch issue, but I'm guessing it's the infamous fat-bottom tune problem.

On the box with engine warmed up, rev up to clear the motor out and then drop to idle. If the idle starts out high and then drops after a number of seconds, the low end is rich, top end is lean. Do the pinch test (at idle, pinch the fuel line closed), you should get 3-5 seconds before the engine dies with minor change in RPMs. If it's much longer, lean the bottom an hour or so at a time.

A lean top and rich bottom cause the run on problem. Running wide open throttle burns off all the fuel, when dropping to idle the mixture is initially very lean (so idle is very fast), but after a couple of seconds becomes very rich as fuel loads up. Fought this quite a while last weekend myself. :blush:

See the excellent tuning guide here:
http://go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/Tech-Tips.html

Grizz: question about the tuning guide, when doing pinch test for initial LSN setting, is that after idling for a bit or right after clearing out the engine and dropping to idle?

Grizz: question about the tuning guide, when doing pinch test for initial LSN setting, is that after idling for a bit or right after clearing out the engine and dropping to idle?


to get the best results do the pinch test when engine is warmed up, when engine is idleing pinch fuel line 1cm from fuel inlet. you do this after idleing for a bit. if you have to clear out carb/engine before doing this, that tells you right there you are on the rich side. you should have nice steady idle before the pinch test.

Hi Kael,

Give it a rev to clear it out if required, then let it settle back to a steady idle.

If you are doing the initial LSN pinch test (7 sec test) for the GX or earlier series motors with the long LSN, this must be done just after the motor has been started from cold to get the right results.
Start it, let it run on the box for 30 sec to get a stable idle, then pinch the fuel line off and set the idle gap going on the results. Once you have the idle gap set, pinch the fuel line off again for the 7 sec LSN setting before the motor warms too much. If you do this test when the motor is warm, you will not get the right results due to more efficient fuel vapourisation in the crankcase as the motor heats up. Once hot you will probably get a 2 - 3 sec pinch at best.

Remember this is a "ball park" LSN setting (normally a little on the rich side). Once you lean the HSN, which you normally will have to do to get nice WOT performance, the LSN will be leaned at the same time, bringing it very close to where it should be for a good crisp tune.
Hope that helps.

Remember peeps, the main objective of the pinch test is to set the idle gap and secondly to set the LSN to suit/correspond with the barrel/slide location once idle gap is set correctly. ;)

thanks for the tips... was re-reading Tech tips... anyway.... my 2011 rides... :)