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Originally Posted by VPProUSA
(Post 11315852)
Heading to the track in the morning to break in my V3.
I took the carb apart and looked at all the neddles. I am starting with this: Idle gap - .6mm High - 2.5 out Low - 1 turn in at noon Mid - 2 turn out from flush at 2 o'clock That looks like the best settings to me. I will report my results Mon. please post what altitude,humidity and temp also ;) |
Got to B&B at noon of Fri. Used heat gun to cycle engine to 250'F. Let cool down. Heated again to 250' and started with VP Racing break in fuel. Used Thunder Innovation heater and idled 1 tank. Kept temp at 200'F. Let cool. Repeated 2nd tank. Let cool. Heated again and started. Blimped throttle on and off entire tank with TI heater still on. Let cool. Heated again. Started and richened high needle 1 turn, opened full throttle so wheels were spinning slowly while I held a heat gun to block to keep it at 190'+ for entire tank. Let cool. Heated and started again and drove in street 1 tank with VP 25% fuel and put on race tune. Let cool. Heated 1 more time and put it on the track. Fine tuned each tank with no heat gun needed. Ended with these settings:
Idle .7mm Mid range 2 turns out from flush at 2 o'clock Low 1 turn in from flush at 2 o'clock High 1 and 3/4 out from all the way in 7mm reducer Temp 265'f Humid, mid 80's 2060 pipe P3 plug Engine ran perfect and had almost half a tank after 5 min quals. Never flamed once and idled like a kitten. ;) |
Also I did not use the break in shim. Temp was about 280 for the first 4 tanks on the track, then it broke in and cooled to 240, so I leaned it out more.
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Can you run this engine in a truggy?
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ive been running this engine in both buggy and truggy for a year now with great success
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Thanks, how about matching pipe for a truggy
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i use a werks 2013 on both
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Stock factory carb settings?
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Originally Posted by VPProUSA
(Post 11324748)
Got to B&B at noon of Fri. Used heat gun to cycle engine to 250'F. Let cool down. Heated again to 250' and started with VP Racing break in fuel. Used Thunder Innovation heater and idled 1 tank. Kept temp at 200'F. Let cool. Repeated 2nd tank. Let cool. Heated again and started. Blimped throttle on and off entire tank with TI heater still on. Let cool. Heated again. Started and richened high needle 1 turn, opened full throttle so wheels were spinning slowly while I held a heat gun to block to keep it at 190'+ for entire tank. Let cool. Heated and started again and drove in street 1 tank with VP 25% fuel and put on race tune. Let cool. Heated 1 more time and put it on the track. Fine tuned each tank with no heat gun needed. Ended with these settings:
Idle .7mm Mid range 2 turns out from flush at 2 o'clock Low 1 turn in from flush at 2 o'clock High 1 and 3/4 out from all the way in 7mm reducer Temp 265'f Humid, mid 80's 2060 pipe P3 plug Engine ran perfect and had almost half a tank after 5 min quals. Never flamed once and idled like a kitten. ;) |
Agree.....:nod:
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I will try it out...
thanks |
Originally Posted by 60_cent
(Post 11359010)
I will try it out...
thanks |
the setting is almost identical in every engine.....consistent, ease of tuning and reliability.
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Got my new Arrow engine in yesterday, looks good, although this thing is SUPER tight, couldn't even really turn it over by hand with the flywheel on, are they all like this? Guess once I start the break in and heat up the head it will be easier to turn over and start? Lookin forward to see how she runs!
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Originally Posted by dirtbikekid2
(Post 11395865)
Got my new Arrow engine in yesterday, looks good, although this thing is SUPER tight, couldn't even really turn it over by hand with the flywheel on, are they all like this? Guess once I start the break in and heat up the head it will be easier to turn over and start? Lookin forward to see how she runs!
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