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-   -   Arrow Racing GTR .21 Engine Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/461596-arrow-racing-gtr-21-engine-thread.html)

lee_double2000 03-26-2012 09:12 AM


Originally Posted by James khoo (Post 10512870)
Breaking in another Arrow today,pain is what i got again!Damn this engine is tight!
run-in 8 tanks,open up for checking,every thing in great condition.
It better to change conrod and pin (And main bearing if needed)after break in,those things are stress big time during break in.

Man it really shouldn't be that bad if u use a heat gun. At least get the motor to around 170-200 degrees and it should fire up everytime. At least mines did:):)

Losi_Steve 03-26-2012 01:08 PM

Well, took the engine out for a pit of club racing/practice this weekend. I was going to do a few pipe comparisons, but when I got to the track, I realize that a few of my SPARE parts boxes were missing. (wife cleaning up around the house) So, I was only able to run the OS 2035 on it. I was very pleased with the results. On the stop watch I got 11:30 from pit to bone dry. Track is on the small side,fairly tight, and probably very suitable for a 2035. The engine ran great, and I was very happy with the overall performance!

James khoo 03-26-2012 06:50 PM


Originally Posted by lee_double2000 (Post 10517960)
Man it really shouldn't be that bad if u use a heat gun. At least get the motor to around 170-200 degrees and it should fire up everytime. At least mines did:):)

Is not the first fire up,it just take a bit long to complete the fully break in.

pcage 03-26-2012 10:36 PM


Man it really shouldn't be that bad if u use a heat gun. At least get the motor to around 170-200 degrees and it should fire up everytime. At least mines did
:nod: I too use the heat gun method. Heat it enough and it fire up the first time.

To break-in a engine. It should fire up first. Without a heat gun. It would be harder and longer. Pain in the a$$. But you will be rewarded later.

I didn't even need to change the conrod and wrist pin. It is the heat gun method which makes it easier to fire up helps safe the rod.
Mine had over 5 gallons now. And I haven't change one part. :lol:

pcage 03-27-2012 09:41 PM

Anyone,

Is it necessary to remove the break in shim after one gallon ?
My first engine was running great with the shim. Fuel Bryon 30%
After I remove it, the engine seems to run hotter. And a little erratic on the tuning.
I put the shim back till now. It all goes back to as it was before.

Question; what does the shim do really ? Will there be a problem if I leave the shim on ?

Rsickles 03-28-2012 06:41 AM


Originally Posted by pcage (Post 10526000)
Anyone,

Is it necessary to remove the break in shim after one gallon ?
My first engine was running great with the shim. Fuel Bryon 30%
After I remove it, the engine seems to run hotter. And a little erratic on the tuning.
I put the shim back till now. It all goes back to as it was before.

Question; what does the shim do really ? Will there be a problem if I leave the shim on ?

Adding the break-in shim removes some compression. Removing it will at first be like reducing the shimming on any engine.

I wouldn't remove it strictly based on how much fuel it's had. With the glow plug removed, and engine cold, if you can still feel 'metallic' pinch when turning over the flywheel, leave the break-in shim.

Racerx336 03-28-2012 06:54 AM

Selling one of these brand new!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...gtr-21-v2.html

pcage 03-28-2012 08:11 AM


Adding the break-in shim removes some compression. Removing it will at first be like reducing the shimming on any engine.

I wouldn't remove it strictly based on how much fuel it's had. With the glow plug removed, and engine cold, if you can still feel 'metallic' pinch when turning over the flywheel, leave the break-in shim.
:nod:

madblu2 03-29-2012 02:29 PM


Originally Posted by lee_double2000 (Post 10517952)
Ull be just fine. I did the heat cycle method and it worked out great after breakin. I took it to Revelation Raceway and got 9+ min coming off at 210 degrees. Also matched with the RE11. Had all the bottom and top end I wanted. Also ran Byrons 30%/11.

I am thinking about getting this motor to test it out.

rossham46 03-29-2012 04:39 PM

getting this engine very soon. Has anyone tried it with a dynamite 086 nova 9901 or reedy 2039. Thanks for any feedback.

James khoo 03-30-2012 10:33 PM


Originally Posted by rossham46 (Post 10533705)
getting this engine very soon. Has anyone tried it with a dynamite 086 nova 9901 or reedy 2039. Thanks for any feedback.

Dynamite 086 and Reedy 2039 are better.both are able to match it.

rossham46 03-30-2012 11:49 PM


Originally Posted by James khoo (Post 10539327)
Dynamite 086 and Reedy 2039 are better.both are able to match it.

Thanks james. Cu in mnl 2 ah. But im much much slower than u ah.

James khoo 03-31-2012 01:07 AM


Originally Posted by rossham46 (Post 10539482)
Thanks james. Cu in mnl 2 ah. But im much much slower than u ah.

Dont say that way,we share cause we are racer.

James khoo 04-01-2012 07:25 AM

My new power!

http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/...1333286439.jpg

sirKandal 04-01-2012 11:52 AM

I started to run my GTR in my MP9 this weekend, after running it 2L in breakin bench. stil running it rich, but this engine impresses me. Can't wait to go to the track again to race tune it ;)


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