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Old 08-18-2011 | 01:15 PM
  #856  
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Originally Posted by pianori
So I changed the front bearing and no more problems now. Needles are where they are supposed to and engine idles great and can run continually for the full tank. With an EFRA 2081 I am getting great power thought-out and 11 min out of a truggy tank.

I do have a question though. My engine is a modified Argus so does that mean that it will go through bearings faster because of the modifications on the crank shaft? What I mean by that is that since material is removed from the crank it causes the engine to be dynamically unbalanced thus creating more vibrations. You should also know that the crank is off my 1/1000ths at the tip which makes it 2/1000ths all the way around, I wonder if that has something to do with it.

Let me know your thoughts on this one please.
A properly Modified engine will not go thru bearings faster. It just depends on how it was modded. There is not 1 way to modify and engine ,there are many things and many different changes that can be made.

So, it all depends on where and how much weight was removed from the crankshaft.

A lot of engines have a small amoount of variance from end to end on the crankshafts I have seen. From any different manufacturers. So a small amount I would not worry about.

Lance
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Old 08-18-2011 | 05:47 PM
  #857  
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Originally Posted by madhammer
I have also had issues with od 97t Plugs flaming after 5 or 6 minutes of racing. I switched to a voodoo 5 plug and all is good. Very happy with argus engines easy to tune and great power.
same thing with me im fine for a coupe of tanks then 5 to 6mins of racing flame out.Its happen to me with two different 97t.Im changing brands
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Old 08-19-2011 | 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by v6shooter
same thing with me im fine for a coupe of tanks then 5 to 6mins of racing flame out.Its happen to me with two different 97t.Im changing brands
MMM i've been running the 97t from the start have put about 8 litres through both my motors and not had a problem idle nice and steady and everything strange???????
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Old 08-19-2011 | 07:09 AM
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Interesting about the plug comment.
Before my issues with the engine (replacing the front bearing) I run the O’Donnell, but now I'm running the OS P3 super hot plug and it works great with super low idle.
I remember reading something like once you go with OS plugs you cannot go back to O’Donnell, or Dynamite plugs. Something to do with the OS having bigger thread than the other plugs so it ends up stretching-out the cylinder threads causing it to compression leak? Is that a fact or an opinion?
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Old 08-19-2011 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by pianori
Interesting about the plug comment.
Before my issues with the engine (replacing the front bearing) I run the O’Donnell, but now I'm running the OS P3 super hot plug and it works great with super low idle.
I remember reading something like once you go with OS plugs you cannot go back to O’Donnell, or Dynamite plugs. Something to do with the OS having bigger thread than the other plugs so it ends up stretching-out the cylinder threads causing it to compression leak? Is that a fact or an opinion?
This has been said but not completly true. This is more to a Nova using os to nova plugs. Somthing with the novarossis, they are made to only use nova plugs. So once u use os plug in a nova they wont take anything but a os. This isnt true for all engines but nova i think. Im not 100% on this beng for novas but its said to retap the button only letting a os work right in it.
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Old 08-21-2011 | 02:51 PM
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Anybody run a 14/50 gear mesh instead of the 13/50 setup in a Losi with the A52 ? I love the bottom and mid in this thing just trying to get some more top. If it means I sacrafice a little bottom to get the top thats fine as these have plenty of bottom anyway.
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Old 08-21-2011 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by hdcruzer
Anybody run a 14/50 gear mesh instead of the 13/50 setup in a Losi with the A52 ? I love the bottom and mid in this thing just trying to get some more top. If it means I sacrafice a little bottom to get the top thats fine as these have plenty of bottom anyway.
IN buggy i run 14/48. Truggy i think 13/48 would be better then 14/50.
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Old 08-21-2011 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rider313
IN buggy i run 14/48. Truggy i think 13/48 would be better then 14/50.
A buggy that gearing sound s fine. Thats a 3.42 ratio lots of top and very little bottom. Thats what you need in buggy. I run on a fairly large track for summer racing. I need some top at the end of the straights which the Argus seems to lack. It has plenty of bottom. Running a 13/48 would be a 3.69 ratio not as much bottom and probably still not the top I want to see at the end of the straight. The 14/50 would be a 3.57 ratio which would seem to suit my driving style the best i have a heavy finger. I would lose some wheel spin coming out of the turn, have more top at the end of the straight and the added benefit of better run times.
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Old 08-25-2011 | 12:39 PM
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Default Argus 52 vs Werks B5 Comparison

Hey guys, I just posted a comparison of both these engines over in the RcRenew.com thread. Give it a read if you have a moment, you'll find out why I'm an Argus convert!!
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Old 08-26-2011 | 05:27 AM
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stock Argus 2081 vs 3033

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Old 08-26-2011 | 06:14 AM
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Why the massive flat spots with the 2081?

Also is that 3033 the best performing pipe on the Argus from what you have seen?
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Old 08-26-2011 | 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by John.
Why the massive flat spots with the 2081?

Also is that 3033 the best performing pipe on the Argus from what you have seen?
myself i found the 2058 to be the best....But that is on my own modified version....On the ground I like the 2081 better then the 3033 .....it has more snap on the trigger....
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Old 08-26-2011 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Maximo
stock Argus 2081 vs 3033

Hey Neal are you saying that's a "tuned" run for the stock engine? The power dips usually means the engine is still rich on the mixture when it's wavy like that with good peak power. When tuned you should be able to smooth the curve out with less peak power. Can you show us the cylinder temps or EGT with each run? The big drop at 28,000rpm usually happens with a spun rod bushing; bad bearing, piston and sleeve seize, or even from being rich and causing vibration. If you graph the temp with the rpm curve you can see what the cylinder temps are doing at those points.
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Old 08-26-2011 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by EBMods
Hey Neal are you saying that's a "tuned" run for the stock engine? The power dips usually means the engine is still rich on the mixture when it's wavy like that with good peak power. When tuned you should be able to smooth the curve out with less peak power. Can you show us the cylinder temps or EGT with each run? The big drop at 28,000rpm usually happens with a spun rod bushing; bad bearing, piston and sleeve seize, or even from being rich and causing vibration. If you graph the temp with the rpm curve you can see what the cylinder temps are doing at those points.
thanks for the tips...I can definitely go back and retest.... tho its odd because I did try that pipe before and after mods and it did the same thing...I did try to massage the needles and head shims but it didn't help...The pipe feels fine on the ground and tunes right in, but on the dyno she doesn't want to play nicely with me !
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Old 08-26-2011 | 03:28 PM
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Do you have any dyno pulls with the 0801? We seem to like that best on the track.

Rex
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