Well, round 2 just now went badly. Started fine, but after a minute or so it shut down. After that it wouldn't stay running without the ignitor, whatever I did. Tried leaning the LSN several times, and counter-adjusting the idle screw. No matter what I did, it wouldn't run without the ignitor.

Will try an OS P4 now I guess. (current plug is OD 97T).. Though somebody here said once you go OS, there's no going back and you have to stick with OS plugs cuz of the shape or something.. Oh well, only got one more OD anyway, and afte that, they're done and OS is all that's available anyway(between those two...)

Try running a hotter plug and see if that helps. If its not runing without the ignitor that means the plug element is getting extinguished by the fuel which would mean bad or weak glow plug or settings are just way too rich?

Also check your fuel lines, tank etc.. to eliminate it being something else.

Lance
RcRenew

Herrsavage-

Is your motor a stock Argus or have any mods been done to it - to be specific, have you had the crankshaft modified? I've seen the type of problems your having in the past, it actually happened to me a few years ago. Sometimes if your crankshaft has been lightened and filled with silicone by someone who's inexperienced, the silicone will come off the crankshaft and cause the EXACT symptoms you're experiencing. When it happened to me, the motor would run fine with the ignitor on it, then would die once it was removed. We tried 5 different plugs and it still did the same thing - and I even had Ryan Mayfield's mechanic trying to help figure it out, but we finally gave up on it. When I got home and pulled the engine apart, there were bits of silicone everywhere inside the engine, except on the crankshaft.

It might be worth pulling it apart to check. Just a suggestion.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...kins/003-1.jpg

On August 5th, Jamey and Jonathan Jenkins traveled to WCRC for some night racing. Jamey took the TQ in truggy and took 2nd in the main. Jonthan qualified 2nd but took the win in the main! Both using Argus powered ZCar ZMXT-8 truggies.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...kins/004-2.jpg

On August 6th, Chris Earheart and Austin Elliott took their Argus powered buggies for the 1, 2 in sportsman buggy at King RC. Austin took the win with his Argus powered ZCar Z10xb and Chris was very close behind in 2nd with his Argus powered Losi.


http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...enkins/006.jpg

In truggy, It was Jonathan Jenkins taking the TQ and win in Truggy with his Argus powered ZCar ZMXT-8 truggy. Pro Buggy saw Don Elliott taking the 2nd place spot with his Argus powered ZCar Z10xb.

It was a great day of racing for Argus Engines!!

Just to let everyone know, Team Driver , Don Elliott, now has an Argus engine with 12 gallons on it!!!!! (Yes.....12)

Only thing that has been replaced is the front bearing. Plus the engine still runs strong and still holds a tune and it has NOT been pinched!!

There are many others out there with 8 + gallons.

This just shows that a 200.00 engine with great power can also last!!

Pretty amazing, 12 gallons with just a front bearing change. Was the rear bearing fine after inspecting? What front bearing did you use as a replacement?
Also have the motors gone up from $180 to $200?

No they are still $180 he was just rounding up:)

And yes these engine last a long time, usually at about 4-5 gallons an engine swill need a rod, bearings and a lot of time a pinch but not the Argus , These things are built like tanks they last and last!..:nod:

Lance
RcRenew

Yep 6.5 gallons on mine and nothings been replaced. not even any play in the rod yet..... And still has a ton of compression.

Got under 2 gallons on mine and man from reading the thread feel like mine are still new....:sneaky:

Really enjoyed these engines. Been a great summer running them!

Can't wait until mine get fully broke in.... :sneaky:

I feel that the SH3033 calms down the engine a lot. Too much for me. It just doesn't scream like it does with a JP4. I can gear it up one on the CB with the JP4 and it calms it down, but now screams top end.

I have changed to running a 7mm venturi and it feels much better to drive.

In truggy with a JP4 I can get around 12minutes runtime on a dusty high throttle track.
In buggy with the 3033 I get 12minutes on astroturf, and 10:30minutes on dirt.

Really impressed by these engines for the price!! They have loads of power all through the range, and am not loosing out anywhere. They seem to like to run richer than expected, but now we are used to it we have plenty of power.

Scott

Put another tank (two heat cycles) through it the other day, and it went much better. Put in a new 97T, and it still started cutting out without the ignitor, but after screwing around with the LSN/idle needle it started to go better.. Temps were 255-265, and went up quickish if I drove around. Just sitting on the box with the occasional blip to clear it out, it was 250ish.. On the ground it would quickly get up to the 280 range..

As for pipes I don't know - I hear different things about the JP-4, and just feel iffy about it.. It doesn't have that raspy screaming sound(OK, haven't revved much yet..) I want all-out power, run-time be damned.., and for the moment don't want to buy a new pipe. Have an 053, 2063, NR 9901 with both headers, Go 2047, 2041, and I think that's it.

The 2063 is AWESOME on the Picco 21's, and the Go 2047 awesome on my Mach 427, the 053 was great on my Caster Grenade(Go 5-port), and the 2041 is really popular here in Germany, and so far it seems good on my Go 3-port. If the JP-4 is really a good power pipe I'll leave it on, but I was wanting to try the NR 9901 or 2041... Will leave the JP-4 for now though..

So I changed the front bearing and no more problems now. Needles are where they are supposed to and engine idles great and can run continually for the full tank. With an EFRA 2081 I am getting great power thought-out and 11 min out of a truggy tank.

I do have a question though. My engine is a modified Argus so does that mean that it will go through bearings faster because of the modifications on the crank shaft? What I mean by that is that since material is removed from the crank it causes the engine to be dynamically unbalanced thus creating more vibrations. You should also know that the crank is off my 1/1000ths at the tip which makes it 2/1000ths all the way around, I wonder if that has something to do with it.

Let me know your thoughts on this one please.

Absolutely...taking weight off a crank can add vibration, as well as limit top end RPM due to to the increased vibration... On the dyno I can actually see an engine lose its top end runout if too much weight is taken off the counterweight....In fact I usually add weight to my counterweights to reduce high RPM harmonics and extend the RPM range of the engine...........

I have also had issues with od 97t Plugs flaming after 5 or 6 minutes of racing. I switched to a voodoo 5 plug and all is good. Very happy with argus engines easy to tune and great power.