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I just purchased one of these. I guess I have to wait until Jan to get it though. I ran a Alpha all summer and ended up 2nd in my Div. with it. If this is the same motor with a different head it will be a great motor. The sleeve looks the same as the one that came out of my S852. And for the folks that want to know if Alpha and gos have anything the same the answer is no..... Carbs are the only thing similar. Lets try to keep this a Argus thread. Most of us that run a Alpha really dont want anything to do with a go. I race in a series with 150 nitro guys and not one of them run a go..... hmmm. I will still run my Alpha but I want to try this and see...
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I just pre ordered an Argus motor and 801 pipe combo yesterday. I should have some results with it next month when I receive it. :cool:
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Originally Posted by outamoney
(Post 8321712)
Being my post is about an Argus, I might need to post in the Go Thread being everyone is talking about Go in the Argus thread LOL.
Anyway, I have a tick over 4 gallons on the new Argus motor for anyone that is interested. So far, I am very impressed. This IS NOT A GO ENGINE! I have had a Go. I also still have a Green Head Alpha (which I still love after seven gallons with absolutely no service). When I had the chance to try the Argus, I was content with the Alpha and did not think Argus could compare. After some arm twisting, I decided to try the Argus, and could not be happier. The Argus is VERY similar to an Alpha but does have some differences (mainly crank and cooling head). The motor seems to be in between the Green Head and Orange Head Alpha. It is as smooth as the Green with good mid and top, but has a little more snap on bottom than the Green. During practice at Fall Brawl, I had to back to back fuel runs. One was 12:27 and the other was 12:05. I did two back to back because when I seen 12 minutes, I thought I forgot to hit the timer. I went a little over 10 min in the main and the pit man said I still had plenty in the tank. I am not a master engine tuner and have rarely gotten 10 minutes on any motor. My Green Head always goes 10 to 10:30 in practice, but never enough that I felt comfortable pushing it in a 20 minute main. With the Argus, I have not had any issues with a one stop 20 minute main. We had two other Argus running at Fall Brawl as well. One was running right under 10 minutes with a JP 3 pipe. The other was running 9:30 to 9:45 with a 2075 (but running rich due to first gallon on motor). I was running the Alpha 801 pipe and a 7.0 insert. The racer with the JP 3 has been a Nova and Ninja man for a long time (Both are Great Engines IMO). We have had him try three other motors in the past and he usually gets rid of them within a couple of gallons because he likes his better. At the end of the race weekend, he pre ordered three Argus Engines from AtoZrc.net. I do not post often, but will be more than happy to answer questions if I can. Again, sorry for posting about Argus under the Argus thread. I will use the Go thread next time LOL. |
Originally Posted by dueld
(Post 8329203)
Glad you like the Argus, let me know if you want to let that Alpha go cheap.
I do have a ninja (broke in plus one race) with about 3/4 gallon I will let go cheap. I bought the Ninja right before getting the Alpha and liked the Alpha better. Now I like the Argus better than the Alpha (so far) and then the Ninja....I guess I will start selling off in order. LOL Don't get me wrong, they are all great engines. |
Originally Posted by dueld
(Post 8329203)
Glad you like the Argus, let me know if you want to let that Alpha go cheap.
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I can vouch for the 9 min in race conditions. I ran out with 50 secs to go in the c main. 10 min main. Great motor and bad driving equals c main. I am a die hard ninja fan. However i will convert my buggy and truggy to this motor after last weekend. I opened the box on wed night turned the idle screw in two full rounds, placed the motor on a buggy without sevros, placed a rubber band around the carb to keep throttle body closed and fired the engine up. I let the engine idle four tanks of fuel throught it without cutting the motor off. Perodically, cracking the throttle body to keep it from loading up. That was all i did to break the motor in. Got to the beach on thursday night installed servos in the buggy, took the two full rounds of idling out, TURNED THE HIGH SPEED NEEDLE IN ONE FULL ROUND, INSTALLED A 6.5 INSERT IN THE CARB, and hit the track on friday morning. By sunday evening i never had to touch that motor from thursday night. No glowplugs or No Tuning all weekend long. The motor came in after practice and main from 190 to 210. This is a great motor for beginners to a everyweekend racer.
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Not to start up the thread highjacking again, but the $400.00 mario rossi tuned ninja has the exact same piston, sleeve, and connecting rod as the first grp motors. It looks like all these motors are copys or they were blue printed by mario rossi. just food for thought.
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Originally Posted by wired
(Post 8332310)
Not to start up the thread highjacking again, but the $400.00 mario rossi tuned ninja has the exact same piston, sleeve, and connecting rod as the first grp motors. It looks like all these motors are copys or they were blue printed by mario rossi. just food for thought.
What you are saying about the Mario Rossi tuned Ninja's being exactly the same as the first GRP engines makes perfect sense. To give you some background Mario worked with the Gandini brothers to design/make the GRP engine. When they finished making it they decided to market it under 4 brands which all came out of their factory, namely the GRP brand which went to Losi/Horizon here in the US, Ninja which of course went to Mugen, Boss which went to Schepis Models in Italy and Eagle which went to SVM/Crono in Italy. Since the GRP factory burning down thing Mario has started his own brand which is Reds and he is working with LM/Star to produce them, so he is no longer involved with this line of engines/design. I had dinner with him at the worlds so I'm sure about what I'm saying. Since you have the engine I'm assuming that you pulled it apart, are you saying that the Argus internals are identical to the Rossi tuned Ninja's from before or that the Ninja is identical to the GRP???? |
not really, but kinda. I do have the tuned ninja. I am 100 percent for sure it is like a grp. I ""THINK"" the grp and go is the same. I have not had a go tech apart, but i was told a go and alpha is the same. I know that a alpha and argus is the same. However you have got me wondering on the exacts of these motors. I have a jx ninja, rossi tuned ninja, orange head go tech, orange head alpha, and now a argus. Looks like i am going to do some engine research this week sometime to answer my own questions!! However the bottom line if the argus gets good gallon life i feel it will be the motor of 2011. Motor and pipe for around $200 on atoz.net this is hard to beat.
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Originally Posted by wired
(Post 8332284)
I can vouch for the 9 min in race conditions. I ran out with 50 secs to go in the c main. 10 min main. Great motor and bad driving equals c main. I am a die hard ninja fan. However i will convert my buggy and truggy to this motor after last weekend. I opened the box on wed night turned the idle screw in two full rounds, placed the motor on a buggy without sevros, placed a rubber band around the carb to keep throttle body closed and fired the engine up. I let the engine idle four tanks of fuel throught it without cutting the motor off. Perodically, cracking the throttle body to keep it from loading up. That was all i did to break the motor in. Got to the beach on thursday night installed servos in the buggy, took the two full rounds of idling out, TURNED THE HIGH SPEED NEEDLE IN ONE FULL ROUND, INSTALLED A 6.5 INSERT IN THE CARB, and hit the track on friday morning. By sunday evening i never had to touch that motor from thursday night. No glowplugs or No Tuning all weekend long. The motor came in after practice and main from 190 to 210. This is a great motor for beginners to a everyweekend racer.
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Originally Posted by wired
(Post 8332637)
not really, but kinda. I do have the tuned ninja. I am 100 percent for sure it is like a grp. I ""THINK"" the grp and go is the same. I have not had a go tech apart, but i was told a go and alpha is the same. I know that a alpha and argus is the same. However you have got me wondering on the exacts of these motors. I have a jx ninja, rossi tuned ninja, orange head go tech, orange head alpha, and now a argus. Looks like i am going to do some engine research this week sometime to answer my own questions!! However the bottom line if the argus gets good gallon life i feel it will be the motor of 2011. Motor and pipe for around $200 on atoz.net this is hard to beat.
The new JX Ninja is made by OS engines and has more in common with an OS Speed then the former MR Ninja's. AFAIK both engines share nothing with Go or Alpha/Argus. I think GO had a good look at some Nova engines to get some inspiration ;) |
I'm going to be bringing in 10 of these engines. As a dealer they are offering some pretty aggressive prices to me. My pricing will include shipping and also with the choices of engine only, engine with alpha pipe or engine with Argus Pipe. Pm me for prices and details.
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Originally Posted by hdcruzer
(Post 8332745)
So you didnt mess with the LSN from factory settings at all ? And you said you ran 4 tanks continuously. You didnt stop between tanks and let motor cool ? One other question I run a Alpha S852 also, they have hella pinch new are these the same ?
I do not know about Wired, but I did not touch the LSN at all. The HSN seemed to take care of the low when I got close to race tune. However, I used the same break in method that Alpha suggest in the book. Two turns rich, WOT for two tanks, idle 10, etc. Yes, these have a wicked pinch...just like the Alpha. You will still have a metal pinch between 1/2 and 3/4 a gallon. The Competition Heat saves the day for these motors. LOL |
Originally Posted by outamoney
(Post 8333416)
I do not know about Wired, but I did not touch the LSN at all. The HSN seemed to take care of the low when I got close to race tune. However, I used the same break in method that Alpha suggest in the book. Two turns rich, WOT for two tanks, idle 10, etc.
Yes, these have a wicked pinch...just like the Alpha. You will still have a metal pinch between 1/2 and 3/4 a gallon. The Competition Heat saves the day for these motors. LOL |
Correct i did not mess with the low speed needle from the factory settings. I also did not cut off during the four tanks. The motor did load up or got a air bubble on the second tank and cut off. I fired it right back up less then a minute after it cut off. I have never broke a motor in like this. I don't know if this will hurt the engine life. So far so good. And also yes this motor after breakend and 3/4 of a gallon on it still needs the competition heat boot(free plug this is a killer product for new motors or during cold starts) placed on it before cold starting the motor.
For the other way of breakend by out of money. I have seen two of associated east coast drivers do this. THey did this because they had motor problems in heats and went to a new motors before the mains. Yes, it is wide open on a stand with wheels and tire on the buggy. They use a heat gun to get the motor around 200. Then when the motor gets to tempature they started opening the high end screw and opening the throttle at the same time. They ended up opening the high end buy two full turns and the buggy wide open. With all this fuel going into the engine it still is not turning but about half the rpms it capable of. During this process you still have to keep the heat gun on the motor to keep the temps up. This is the fastest way to break a motor in but, it has to be hard on the rod and glowplug trying to move all the fuel through the motor |
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