Working on thisend, now..

Neal I see you have the JL on special.. Very good pricing.. How does a JP6 pipe work on this engine? I am considering 2 JL's for next season, and I have a JP-3 and a JP-6.. I am thinking JP-3 for truggy, and JP-6 for buggy.. If I go with the JL's that is.. Still looking at Werks pretty hard core also..

CRE Evo 3 comparison
 

I've run all kinds from the Werks B7, B7 Pro, RB's c5, worlds ws7III, c6BBT7, Trinity/extech full mod 24, Novarossi 528XR to the Killer 9. I'm sure there are more, but these are ones I have raced. I liked them all for different reasons, but I would put the CRE Evo 3 power in the range of the Nova 528 and that thing was a beast but self destructed after stretching the conrod and it was a heavy motor and was not good for racing. I've had my best runs with the K9, but only as I've become a better driver and the motor ran flawless for 8 gallons. The torque curve is like the Trinity24 but more power and better top end even during break in. This motor was fragile as a new born baby and outright my most troublesome I have ever had. Its life ended when the head broke off during a race. Didn't have a scratch on it!

I was looking for the durability of my RB motors with a power band like the 24 or K9 and the overall power of the NOVA. I think the EVO3 hit the mark.

we never tried a JP-6 on it yet....but it rips like a banshee on a JP-3

That is what I was afraid you would say... I guess I'll try it, and if I don't like it pick up another JP-3 later on..

If you want brutal bottom end at the expense of some top end, the JP1 is flat awesome on the bottom but it will not rev like the JP3 :nod: I've been running my CRE JL in my late model for a couple months now, and the JP3 is perfect for larger oval tracks with flowing corners and the JP1 is great for those tight, point and shoot tracks :nod:

I spoke earlier in the thread about getting the CRE JL for my truggy. Should I use the JP-1 for the heavier RS version of my truck(AE) or will the JP-3 give plenty of bottom to it?

I have a quick question. Just got the jpx yesterday, and would like to know If the carb has already been seated. And if the lsn is supposed to be flat and blunt at the tip (seams strange) that's all.

Got my clocked B5 in the mail today. Adding it to my clocked JPX and JL. Now I get to do some extensive testing and listen to everyone at the track ask what the hell I got in that thing. :sneaky:
Thanks Neal!!

jazz if you could look at my post and hopefully give me a little help, i would greatly appreciate it.

What do you guys think is better for a Mugen MBX6? I was going to get an O'Donnell SS .21 but I just started looking at the Clocked JL, JPX and P7 EVO3. They are all within budget w/the most expensive on e at the top of what I want to spend. I have a JP-3 Pipe already so I'm leaning toward the JL.

I'm coming from an 2200kv electric powered buggy so I'd like to have some great low end and top speed(doesn't everyone). My track is rough loose dirt with 1 or 2 medium/large jumps and lots of smaller ones. Any help would be great. Thanks

Thats how they are Marcus. Neal sends the engines ready to rip. I dont know how much lapping he did with your engine but follow whatever break in method he told you to. Just check the pinch bolt on your carb and make sure it is tight. Neal will also sometimes coat the internals with a light sewing machine oil and recommends you flush it out with fuel before you fire it up

I think neal should answer the questions on his thread but my vote would be for the Clocked Werks B5. When it comes to bottom end it has more than you will ever need

the shimming was a misprint and so was alot of the goobly goo i wrote. I already had the shimming straight. I never have seen a flat needle before, strange. Thanks for your help.

Dont touch the shims! neal will shim it accordingly before he sends it to you and include any extra leftover shims in your box. Most of neals engines are not stock shimmed but he always shims for 30% and according to his mod work.

I did not touch the shimming. Still has .10 shim on the head and 2 .20 in the box. But it is nice to know what it is exactly for future reference. He sent me to many glo plugs though:sneaky: