All the nitro engines that I own have "BRASS" con rod
bushings. All eighteen of them. I've never seen a copper
bushing in a con rod.

Here they are.

http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/

Over 500 sold, just a bit more than a few

Actually, you are right. Well, you are wrong at the same time. Same principle applies. "BRASS" as you say it, not at strong as aluminum and used to absorb some of the vibration on a nitro engine. It is also a wear and tear part and also weaker than the crank material.

So, instead of sounding like a smart ass and telling us about your 11tybillion engines that have "BRASS" con rod bushings, you could simply correct us and add some technical knowledge.

Let me give you an example.... "BRASS"=copper+zinc. In our engines, probably 85/15 mixture.

here is a page of distributers for the Massive Mods MG 66 : http://www.massivemods.com.au/index....d3c43d9304fefa

the first 15 were hand made

Conrod bearings are not brass they are Bronze. Most are 660 bronze or lead phospher bronze.

I'm hoping the new Vspecs coming out will be more durable. Never seen any of them last half as long as a good RB or NR mill. 4gallons tops.

But damn they are nice to tune when they're a 1-3 gallon old. Perfect idle and midrange. The closest I've gotton to OS tuneability was a NR FMS and RB WS7III with OS P3 and P5 plugs in them. Maybe I'm better at tuning Italian 7 ports, compared to the +4 or N21b, for example.

Maybe it's OS's glow plugs that make thier engines so good (when new). I know that running only OS plugs in my Italian mills isn't the best idea ever. But it works way better than NR and O'd plugs thats for sure.

If your wearing out your rod bushings it is from a lack of lubrication... What brand of fuel do you run ( Nitrotane is horrible for this FYI)...if its not the fuel then you are tuning too lean....

Holding them on the pipe for three or four tanks of
fuel at at time doesn't help much either. He!He!He!
No blip blip blippin action for my Clockworks engines,
huh Neal? Neal is correct, if you have the carb set
right the con rods will last you many gallons. You should
take the time to pull the backplate and check your
con rod for wear after each gallon of fuel. Improper
break-in and over-leaning the carb is the reason for most
con rod problems. The occasional run away is also bad
on a ron rod too.

It is common for the Blue Specs to have early wear, that is why most upgrade to the crank in a speed as it is harder. You can't compare that motors material to a Nova and expect the same results regardless of the fuel or care you take.

Thank you for the answer that I was looking for, I was popping rod bushings on picco engines a few years ago when Orion had there first crf line, I no fersure I didn't no how to tune so it was my fault but I still it was that same BRASS bushing that kept going so i just wondered what was te deal. Anyways I use Eb mods fuel and it's the best hands down iv never had a tuning issue and I get it cheap and all my engines like it so it works out well. Thanks for the answers!

I have been researching what motor to put in my truggy for awhile. I was about set on a ninja but after seeing a werks b5 at the track yesterday in a buggy i'm going with that. It was the best sounding motor out of all the ones on the track in that class. There were some nova's and OS motors running with it. I'm not paying 400 bucks for a speed. OS probably has a total of 50 bucks in that motor. RIP OFF. The werks motor ripped just like any other race motor. Sounded AWESOME. My 2 cents.

delete

I would LOVE to see a crank pin made of tungsten and a rod bushing made of chrome or a dlc coated steel.

How about $550 for a modded speed.... Come on I know you want one.


They should just make it out of titanium, light and strong.