how to make an rc engine heater?
 

hi there,

i have been looking around for something to use to heat my engine up. because i live in the UK it is very cold sometimes and i have to start my car 2 or 3 minutes before the race so the engine is work at it's optimum temperature. i have heard of using a heat gun but is there a step by step guide of how to make your own heater that wraps around the engine?

many thanks

lewis

i have had a look at those heaters but it is a bit too much for what i need. it only has to be a little simple home made thing?

many thanks anyway

lewis

You can take a look into 1/10 EP tyre warmers.

Here you go.
12V hair dryer and a cardboard tube
cost are 22 usd for the dryer and some time

wouldn't that cook the hairdryer
and wouldn't there be a lot of heat loss
in that idea as u would need a good seal
what temp are u getting with that idea at the glow and the crank case
and what time frame

im also looking for a 12v hair drier or heat gun which i can carry to the track to warm/heat my engine up.

how hot can those 12v hair drier get?..

will only need it to get my engine warm enough to loosen up

The dryer gets her up to aprox 70C.
The engines I run are Werks and they have lightned cooling heads. The holes let the air flow thru wthout mutch resistance.
It could well be that other brands do not work this well but this is someting you will need to test out yourself.

It takes aprox 10 min to heat your engine

This fella is making them.

w w w.rcsurestart.co.uk

basically a 1:1 headlamp bulb, and a fan.

Get the competition heat. Believ me. You and your engines will thank you

I use the Hangar 9 heat gun. I think it's intended purpose is for sealing the monokote on airplanes, but it works fine for me. And, it's got nearly a 9ft cord with tip temperatures over 300f.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-tape/=7lkciq

go to the second to last item on the page. DC voltage, flexable silicone rubber heat strips.

DC voltage is ideal for mobile and laboratory applications running on battery power. They work on metal and plastic tanks and have adhesive backing for sticking to very clean surfaces. Watt density is 5 watts/sq. in. They have 1-ft. wire leads for hardwiring. Max. heat output is 300° F. Exposure temperature range is -40° to +300° F.
Please specify 12 VDC or 24 VDC. I use a 7ah sealed battery in summer time will take engine to 200 in about 8 to 10 min check temp under cooling heat at cylinder do not let it get to hot.

1" x 5" is the one to use for 25.92$


note that i do not have one of these. I have this website and information from another poster on this site. And i have it saved because i plan on using it. Looks just dandy!!!

how do they work? do you just wrap them around the engine?

anyone got a real pic of it? not a animated pic

or a pic of it in action

i emailed him.

I am a Comp Heat fan obviously, but I understand those looking for a cheaper option. The only other way I would do it is with a heat gun. All this other ways will eventually cost more than the Comp Heat Heater. It will last for many years if handled properly. The Fan light Bulb idea concerns me?? The Fan? The Bulb? and casing look fragile, not to mention bulky. I just think in the long run, the Comp Heater will be less frustration and easy to use. I do not want to be at a race and have the fan die, bulb go bad etc. Not to mention, Comp heat is a no brainer to use, just plug it in a walk away.

The heat guns and "Bullet Fan" have to chance of over-heating and possibly ruin the seals and o-rings in the motor/carb.

I just think the cheapest route is to buy the best the first time:nod: Comp Heat does something the fans and hair dryers can't do also and that is allow the heat to spread internally into the motor and not just heat the head or exterior. There is reason the Pro's are BUYING (Not being given to) the Comp heater:)

There is a way to do everything. Pro's and people with money can afford the convienence of doing something easier. I would love a hudy break in stand, but a spare chassis/fuel tank and a prop does the same thing, just gotta use your imagination and do it. i wish i could i buy brand new sleeves instead of pinching them.

I would love an engine warmer, but for the forseable future it looks like the heat gun for me. My next thing up is i need to replace my axles, then tires and shock springs, then body and so on.

but it does look killer and would love to have one. And if i had the money i would.

buy hey, feel free to give me one! I promise to tell everyone how good it is! I will even put one of those stupid magnets on my truck:lol:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/exclusiv...ure-start.html

i emailed the guy and there are pics on this thread.

So how much does this cost?

I just do not think 150 degrees is warm enough. All the engine guru's I have spoken with say atleast 200 degrees.

There is other advantages to the Comp Heat that I do not see possible with the Sure Start. The cover is insulated and it is awesome for the break in bench. How well does this other heater work when the engine is running? Again, it looks to easy to break if it is droped. And there are several mechanical parts that could break.

The technology in Eric's heater is what all the 1-1 scale teams use, nobody uses a blow dryer. It also has a insulated cover that will keep the motor warm once un-plugged for the trip to the drivers stand.

I do not want to start an arguement here at all!!!!!!, that is not my intention. But I just see to many problems with the Sure Start.

I just think if you could try the Comp Heater, you would never consider anything else. You guys have some great cars and equipment. One BCE chassis is the cost of the heater, and the heater will last for years. So skip a BCE once and you have a free heater:nod:

Good Luck with however you go.

36euros.

i would be all over the comp heater.. i like the design of the comp heater alot better aswell. however 2 problems.
1. they dont have a .12 size out yet
2. id much prefer if they made a 12v version. there is no AC power at my track unless it is race day, and id like to preheat my engine before practises, and breaking in new engines at the track etc.

other alternative is to buy a 12v hair drier.. which will cost be about the same.

I do agree w the 12v, it would be nice to have the option. I know it is in the works, but I do not know how long until it is in producion.

Let us know which way you go and how it turns out.

they better hurry and release a .12 version with 12v we got a bunch of .12 boys waiting lol.

You can use our Comp heater with 12 volt, all you need is an inverter. I purchased one that is very small, compact, and inexpensive (20 usd) and works awesome with our heater. As far as the .12 engine heaters, we are working on them but we will never rush to bring a product to market. What alot of the Mcgiver types (which is fine) do not understand is the amount of R@D and time and money we put into developing our product. If our product was, and is so simple, surely someone would have come up with it years ago. Like most great products, there are certain formula's that make it work. Competition Heat is always looking at way's to improve our product and to bring new products to market. Our focus is none other than being the leader and company R/C racers look to for pre heating their racing engines.

Hello guys,

My names John and im the guy behind the Sure-Start which is a brand new product to the market, it’s so new in fact the first 20 units are only shipping to the first batch of customers tomorrow!

Couple of point in the Sure-Starts defense, it can get to way over 150f if you want things hotter, If you are willing to wait a little longer than five minutes it can get the engine over 200F. Five minutes in my opinion is the bench mark as most racers don’t want to wait around for 10 - 15 minutes before starting as it would mean it just simply wouldn’t get used most of the time.. In comparison tests with other competitor’s products it outperforms it and runs on 12V. Im also testing on a 3 cell Lipo now ;)


At the moment the Sure-Start is available on two size casing, small and Large and at the moment is targeted for 1/8th off-road engines, however there is no reason why I cannot produce a dedicated .12 size if the demand is there as all casing are interchangeable.

Thanks

John

Lambchops, good luck with your product. It always good to see new ideas.

It is just apples and oranges here. Replacement Bulbs? Different tubes for different .21 engines. By the time you buy the unit, a couple tubes and a replacement bulb your over $100.00, and then you still have to buy more bulbs over time. How long does a bulb last? How long does the fan last? How much testing was done on these units. Can they be dropped?

You mentioned that most racers do not wait 15 minutes. That is where you are ging wrong. We have been using these heater all year now, and racers put them on up to 20-30 mins ahead. If I am racing or pitting a main, I just plug the heater in and go, it could be 15-30 min, it does not matter. Pre-Heating is what it is, it is temp, not time. There are just some things you are missing here since you have not been doing real world tests.

Good Luck to ya!

Hi Kal,

Ive been using a similar prototype unit for just under a year, this was so successful and had so many people asking if I could make one for them this is why ive now started this venture :)

Ive never had a bulb blow or a fan fail in the prototype and the components used in the production units are higher quality.

The casing is stainless steel so you can bet its strong, you could stand on it and it wouldnt break! Ive dropped mine many times, the bulb is very secure and protected so wont break if dropped. The paint used is powder coat so is also very tough

I understand what you are saying about pre-heating times, perhaps us 1/8th off-road guys as just a little more rushed. There is no need to leave the sure-start fitted for 20-30 mins, the maximum time you would need to reach 200F is 12 mins, (220F is about the units max temp).

Thanks

John

No point arguing who's the best here... The proof of the pudding is in the eating... Why not let actual users decide which is the best here?

Any great products are backed up by huge numbers of fans/followers, there is no need for you to be defensive if it is good... ;)

My $0.02

Ive just finished recording a video of the sure-start in action! Will post a link when i have it pubished :)

12 vdc engine preheater
 

Follow this .
see this post I have a link and some pics of one I made.
Pre Heating Engine
Look for the replies by me Redvet79
Hope this helps.

Sorry here is the link. Several Post Some With Pics.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ng-engine.html

You Tube video complete, sorry its hard to talk for 5 mins but you get the idea

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjooU0c461Y

spare bulb exspense lol

go to local salvage yard and raid some headlamp bulbs for a dollar or two

we suffer low temps here in the uk a lot of my racing in the winter is done in the -4 to 5 deg celcius range and this will be a god send to ease of starting and give my engine a longer life i used to use a headlamp bulb off a stick pack but now purpose built heater on its way

would have to be 12v as power limited here at uk tracks were all grass roots racing normally in middle of nowhere and dont have the support that usa tracks seem to have

one day when i win on lotto i wanna come out and sample the us style dirt tracks cant wait ;)

Welcome John... I tried doing on a UK forum (MaxBashing) what you have just done here, introduce yourself and product. Our thread was deleted and we were basically told since we were not a "Home Grown" business in the UK we were not welcome. I just wanted to welcome you and I know RC Tech and their moderators are more than fair and will show no bias. Good luck to you and your product.

Thanks for the welcome Eric appreciated :)

i will try this one but i will use some plastic tubing and cover it in heat insulating tape. and if i cant get the engine hot enough with the hair dryer then i will take the fan and heating element out the the dryer and see if that makes a difference. so it will kind of look like one of those rc sure start ones

many thanks for the help

lewis

I thought I'd drop by just to say that as a long time member of the aforementioned forum I feel pretty disgusted to read about what's happened here. To be honest and especially in the current climate you'd think that innovation and entrepeneurship would be applauded and welcomed, we're all in this hobby together at the end of the day. A pretty shoddy way to be treated in the least.
I wish you every success. !!
Anon,
UK.

I agree the treatment/comments were a bit harsh - especially as they were in the open (and I'm not scared to put my name to my comments! :p :lol: )

I think it may partially be due to them trying to defend John and his product because of some of the comments on here questioning the design/reliability of it and were trying to protect one of their forum regulars. However, I'm not convinced there was a need for it personally. Both products ultimately do the same job but are different concepts and people will chose which suits their needs and pocket the best.

Personally, I have the 110v Competition Heat one and am very happy with it.

I already run a gennie so running a 240v-110v converter is not a major problem. However, 12v is generally more convenient over here and small 12v to 110v inverters aren't very common and it would still be something extra to carry....so I expect John's will be very popular on those grounds. It also has the big advantage of John's being UK based, and as a result the end cost being a fair bit lower (mainly due to the international shipping costs and import duty/VAT that we get hit for - I think I got hit for about £22 in fees before ParcelForce would release my heater - this was mainly their handling fee that they charge for charging me the VAT on behalf of the sodding Government!! :flaming: ).

From what I have seen (haven't seen John's up close yet), it does look very good....however, personally, I prefer the more compact design of the Competition Heat one as I already carry loads of stuff and want/need to condense it down! (although admittedly it isn't very compact by the time you add the converter!)....now, if a purely 12v one was available....I'd be very happy!

Hopefully everything has calmed down and I wish both companies all the best!

Any new innovation or product development deserves to be applauded. This is the only way we will continue to grow. Nobody wants to see their hard earned work and money be criticized. Racer input is needed to help these manufacturers fine tune their products, but I agree it needs to be good constructive critcizism. So I hope any of my posts did not come off that way and if they did I apologize.

Good Luck to everyone, I am just stoked to see how many people realize how important it is to pre-heat these engines. My Orion with 4 gallons had almost zero crankpin and rod wear and I am 100% that it is due to pre-heating and goo fuel.

does anyone have a competition heater that they do not want any more and they would be wiling to sell to me? just curious

many thanks

lewis