Pre Heating Engine
#17
Follow this link halfway down page
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-tape/=7ci4lq
DC Voltage Flexible Silicone-Rubber Heat Strips
DC voltage is ideal for mobile and laboratory applications running on battery power. They work on metal and plastic tanks and have adhesive backing for sticking to very clean surfaces. Watt density is 5 watts/sq. in. They have 1-ft. wire leads for hardwiring. Max. heat output is 300° F. Exposure temperature range is -40° to +300° F.
Please specify 12 VDC or 24 VDC. I use a 7ah sealed battery in summer time will take engine to 200 in about 8 to 10 min check temp under cooling heat at cylinder do not let it get to hot. mine is a do it yourself not to pretty but works great.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-tape/=7ci4lq
DC Voltage Flexible Silicone-Rubber Heat Strips
DC voltage is ideal for mobile and laboratory applications running on battery power. They work on metal and plastic tanks and have adhesive backing for sticking to very clean surfaces. Watt density is 5 watts/sq. in. They have 1-ft. wire leads for hardwiring. Max. heat output is 300° F. Exposure temperature range is -40° to +300° F.
Please specify 12 VDC or 24 VDC. I use a 7ah sealed battery in summer time will take engine to 200 in about 8 to 10 min check temp under cooling heat at cylinder do not let it get to hot. mine is a do it yourself not to pretty but works great.
#19
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660
#20
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660
so, do you stick it to the engine? Or do you stick it to something that you put on the engine which makes more sense to me. That way you can reuse it. If you just stick it to the engine, i don't think you could reuse it that many times before the adhesive wears out.
#24
[quote=Redvet79;7541561]Forgot this part
1" x 5" $25.92
this is the one i use.
I can take a pic If anyone wants to see it in action.[/quoteyes champ pics would be great very interested thanks
1" x 5" $25.92
this is the one i use.
I can take a pic If anyone wants to see it in action.[/quoteyes champ pics would be great very interested thanks
#25
I,ll take a pic today and show you what i did its is insulated inside and out and pushes down over the engine . basic materials bottom 3"of stainless steel water bottle, oven mitt, rubber grommets 1 for wire and 1 for glow plug driver,rubber stopper, and silver aluminum tape. it will make sense when you see pic. I have some other waco things i have made for rc racing but this one really works good. I should have pic's and more detail by noon today.
#26
I,ll take a pic today and show you what i did its is insulated inside and out and pushes down over the engine . basic materials bottom 3"of stainless steel water bottle, oven mitt, rubber grommets 1 for wire and 1 for glow plug driver,rubber stopper, and silver aluminum tape. it will make sense when you see pic. I have some other waco things i have made for rc racing but this one really works good. I should have pic's and more detail by noon today.
#30
I prolly get a posse chasing me for giving this advice, but what the heck:
I've used a creme-brule torch together with aluminium foil. Beware of where u point the thing and not putting the flame directly to the engine (hence the foil).
If youre careful its no problem to slowly heat youre engine to the required 150 - 200F, better than cold starting youre mill.
Heat gun is still my choice (waiting for the competition heat 230V version)
I've used a creme-brule torch together with aluminium foil. Beware of where u point the thing and not putting the flame directly to the engine (hence the foil).
If youre careful its no problem to slowly heat youre engine to the required 150 - 200F, better than cold starting youre mill.
Heat gun is still my choice (waiting for the competition heat 230V version)
5,000 watt power inverter and a big car battery should run a heat gun. Or just find a 12v electric heat coil and make your own head heater thingy.





