acepaw

I usually check my internals every one gallon, look for scratch or wear sign and replace the rod every 4 gallon. Everytime changing p/s/r i always break in as if its new engine..

janisdaubergs

And p/s/r ? should I break in new piston sleeve with old of new rod?

thommi

during the break in process, you are putting a big strain on the rod as a) the engine still has mechanical pinch and b) you are running a rich engine. The forces on the rod are much higher than with an already ran in engine and I would NOT use an old rod for this process. I never had a rod going bad on me after breaking in a REDS engine, but do change them on a regular basis around the 4 or 5 gallon mark, just to be on the safe side. There are other brands having a much higher mechanical pinch in the beginnin where I suggest changing the rod after the break-in process, but I have never felt the need to do that on the REDS engines.

UrabusDenis

Does anyone know of some alternative cooling heads which fit the Reds R5R engine? The original one on my engine broke and unfortunately the Alpha head which I have doesn't fit, neither with its head button. Or if anyone has a cooling head from an old Reds engine they'd sell?

RokleM

iTrader: (33)

Check with your local distributor too, they should be able to get you a spare official head.

MiQ

I'm getting R7 with S manifold and 2104 pipe. I'm also intrested getting quattro clucth. Have you guys used the basic 2x carbon 2x aluminium shoes and L "mode"?

hyperfuxx

iTrader: (32)

The motor runs great. Smooth and quick. Idles clean when I pull it off but off the bigger jumps it revs high when I let off the throttle. I figured the bottom was too lean so I fattened up 2 hours but still does is. Fattened up the top 1 hour and same deal. Any ideas? Thanks

thommi

richen the hsn more...

daverollo

Sounds more to me like the carb is not closing properly in neutral. You use a return spring or elastic band?

DaRaceMasta

yeah im useing this set up now.. loving it... smooth controllable power and idles like a dream.. temp around 97c is ideal.. as mentioned in the past by others.. the clutch in L as suggested is good good for loose to medium traction tracks.. as is on our track here.. even when i throttled the car and had it rooster tailing.. keeping it steady wasnt overly challenging.. the wear from just after breakin has been fairly good, just keep it clean in the clutch bell, which im sure you know..

happy driving!

hyperfuxx

iTrader: (32)

I do have a band around it and it's a new servo

CHOAS

Idle gap to big or High needle to lean if carb is closing all the way of throttle. You said to run the band. Check the linkage also to make sure its closing all the way.

My ST-RR EVO

iTrader: (5)

+1. Hsn too lean. Idle gap too big or collar on carb linkage hitting servo horn which is preventing carb from closing.

hyperfuxx

iTrader: (32)

I can't imagine the top is too lean. Came off a little over 200 but I'll have to wait till the weekend. I'll go ever the linkage tonight. I'm trying to get to know this motor. I'm not the best at tuning.

thommi

don't read too much into temperature. there are diferent ways on how you can end up with 200F, and it doesn't have to be the correct one. Focus on getting the engine to work, and with that, temperature will be right. The REDS engines are good when a bit rich on the LSN. Keep idle high as it usually drops when heating up. But agree with the others, linkage has to be fine, everything has to be completely closed. What venturi are you using? If you are not that experienced with the REDS engines, start with the 7mm venturi. The tuning window is wider and you will struggle less.