djbxp

Thanks everyone guys. All seems reasonable to get one.

My ST-RR EVO

iTrader: (5)

Sometimes it's easiest to start from scratch with your tune. Richen the needles as I described previously. The engine HAS TO be up to operating temperature. Use a heat gun and temp gun. You need a new plug mostly to rule out the plug being part off the problem. Even a bad plug can allow the engine to run, but then flames it out later. It'll restart and die out later.

Measure the idle gap with the venturi out.

DaRaceMasta

great info thinking of picking up the evoke 7 in the future .. hard choice..

thommi

Don't see the need to change the rod after break-in as the engine is very smooth to break-in with less mechanical pinch than others.

DaRaceMasta

agreed... i just preheated the TE2 upto 100c then started it.. on a windy 22c sunny day.. and kept it at a 240F ... and did take it to 149c for short intermittent times.. and the wind cooled it to 120c then keep it to 110c .. had no issue and kept it fairly rich to set the bearings in.. and let it run for 1 tank.. then blipped it during 2nd , 3 figure 8 driving in 4th tank , drive on track 1/4 throttle.. and by 5 race tune it part way.. and 6th ease in more and more to race tune.. by 8 and 10 let it ripp!!

some breaking with 2min run then stop , let it cool , run for 2 min , then same thing.. and after 5 it should be ok to race tune.. thats with OS engines.. and this coming from a experienced tuner..

C.moore

iTrader: (1)

I have my reds r5r broke in and I'm doing some fine running on the engine, this is my first quality motor as I've only had bashers in the best and if theres one thing the traxxas 3.3 taught me its how to tune lol .. This thing was so easy to tune in comparison, I'm running 30% nitro and its running between 215-225 after multiple wide open passes with the body on the buggy, is this the ideal temperature range because it feels to me that its absolutely screaming and I'm afraid to go any farther. I took a temperature right at the end of a tank as it was leaning out and it got to 240 which I'm ok with if thats with operating temperature.

DaRaceMasta

yyyeah still above the minimum.. i run mine at 97c which would be 220F just right

DaRaceMasta

had run the buggy with my reds quattro clutch and maan
the delivery of power is so goooood.. i have it on soft spring set up for loose track .. even my mate who runs the 2015 ed 998 said its really nice and plush and yeah power is enjoyable.. when you want power you get it... its just so good

phillypete

alright ladies and gentlemen, my engine saga continues.

I raced both my buggy (with the r7) and my truggy (with the R5TE 3.0). Once again at the start of the day I took both engines back to flush and tried to get them to run without severly leaning out the bottom.

I even recieved help from a Picco team mechanic who's driver went on to win the Pro Buggy.

The r7 in the buggy was tricky for us to tune and it took the first two rounds of qualifying to get it right. It would be real slow to get up and go, but would tend to run on at the end of the straight. What made it so hard was it would sound great on the box but run like crap. We finally ended up with a tune that sounded horrible on the box. I could see other people on pit lane looking at it with that WTF look as it sat warming up, but it ran like a champ.

Here is where my settings were at:







The truggy was much of the same story. We tried to lean out the bottom, but we went far that idle screw no longer was able to bring down the idle to a reasonable level and still felt like it needed to be leaner on the bottom. The main was a horror show. The truggy would barely accelarate from a stop. I literally came in after every lap to get it leaned until I had just enough power to clear most of the jumps.

It is also worth noting that both motors have very little mechanical pinch after 2.5 gal through each of them.

thommi

well, dificult to really be helpful at this moment. The settings are ways off on the LSN from whatever I have seen on REDS so far, which suggests to me that something else is definitly off too, question is what... REDS engines usually are not very thight when cold, but I would definitly "listen" to the piston going up in the sleeve... see if there is a lot of bypass noise which would indicate scratches on the piston. what fuel are you using? did you try to change fuel to see if that changes something?

am

Thoose needles i way off what i would say is normal.

What glowplugs du you run? could you take a pic of the plug and show me?
What fuel do you run?

KyoshoRed

iTrader: (5)

Got a question for the people that have ran or are running the Reds Quattro clutch setup. Do factory clutch bells work on that clutch setup or do you have to run Reds clutchbells? Really just wondering about the Kyosho MP9 setup using factory Kyosho 13t lightweight clutch bells.

DaRaceMasta

id say it would be fine with a factory kyosho clutch.. as the quattro is 32mm flywheel size... i did dremmel the opening of where the flywheel sits for easy start.. as the flywheel doesnt sit all the way back on the crank.. which is fine..

just obv sit it firmly :P

MugenMAD

Good to hear, glad you liked it.

My ST-RR EVO

iTrader: (5)

It looks like you're running a buku cap on there. Is that true? Those caps gave me an issue because the front bearing would suck in the dirt embedded grease over time and really cause drag in the bearing. The engine would not rev right as a result. That extra dirty you have on your engine looks ripe for the clogging. .. If that is a buku cap on there try removing it, cleaning the front bearing thoroughly and then running w/o the cap. Those caps are great add long as you do the maintenance.