223LikesREDS Engines (Mario Rossi)
05-04-2015, 02:00 PM
#1366
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (100)
There aren't too many Reds motors in my area to compare to and the guys with experience on Nova or OS motors have a real difficult time getting my Reds to run right.
My engine temps have been around 200-210. Power seems a little sluggish to start but once it gets going it's pretty quick. Hence why we've been working on the LSN. Fuel economy has sucked. I've been struggling to get 8.
I'm going to take it back to flush on both ends and work on leaning out the top more and leaving the bottom as rich as possible.
My engine temps have been around 200-210. Power seems a little sluggish to start but once it gets going it's pretty quick. Hence why we've been working on the LSN. Fuel economy has sucked. I've been struggling to get 8.
I'm going to take it back to flush on both ends and work on leaning out the top more and leaving the bottom as rich as possible.
By the way What pipe and venturi you using right now ? I am using 2113 pipe, 7mm Venturi with 25/11 fuel and easy to get 9+ mins at my local track.
Last edited by teddymp9; 05-04-2015 at 02:32 PM.
05-04-2015, 05:29 PM
#1367
I was getting 10+ with the 6 Venturi all day. Running with werks and the 2104 pipe. My buddy's a great tuner and had it licked. Grabbed a set of mizer Venturis but unfortunately I've been running the lucky air filters and must of sucked dirt for a half season. Scored the crap outta the piston and couldn't get anything out of it. Pulled it off the track at 280+ and tore it down the next day. No good
05-04-2015, 06:08 PM
#1368
Tech Adept
Are you guys on the new horizontal carb?
Because running the lsn anywhere close to flush won't work for my engine.
I set my needles to flush and then fired it up, adjusted idle. Then tried to lean out the top enough to get it to clear out, but I'd never get there the run on issue would get worse and worse and it would flame out.
So I went back and forth leaning out the bottom and richening the top until I got it to the point where it cleaned out and held a solid WOT exhaust note and then also settled back down to a nice idle.
I am leaner in the bottom and richer on the top than where I was at when I first made the post. It's running about 250 at 85 ambient.
I like the way it's running but I'm concerned that I'm so far off from the consensus on here, but my r5tte3 and my r7 are both pretty close on needles.
Because running the lsn anywhere close to flush won't work for my engine.
I set my needles to flush and then fired it up, adjusted idle. Then tried to lean out the top enough to get it to clear out, but I'd never get there the run on issue would get worse and worse and it would flame out.
So I went back and forth leaning out the bottom and richening the top until I got it to the point where it cleaned out and held a solid WOT exhaust note and then also settled back down to a nice idle.
I am leaner in the bottom and richer on the top than where I was at when I first made the post. It's running about 250 at 85 ambient.
I like the way it's running but I'm concerned that I'm so far off from the consensus on here, but my r5tte3 and my r7 are both pretty close on needles.
05-04-2015, 09:15 PM
#1369
Tech Regular
Are you guys on the new horizontal carb?
Because running the lsn anywhere close to flush won't work for my engine.
I set my needles to flush and then fired it up, adjusted idle. Then tried to lean out the top enough to get it to clear out, but I'd never get there the run on issue would get worse and worse and it would flame out.
So I went back and forth leaning out the bottom and richening the top until I got it to the point where it cleaned out and held a solid WOT exhaust note and then also settled back down to a nice idle.
I am leaner in the bottom and richer on the top than where I was at when I first made the post. It's running about 250 at 85 ambient.
I like the way it's running but I'm concerned that I'm so far off from the consensus on here, but my r5tte3 and my r7 are both pretty close on needles.
Because running the lsn anywhere close to flush won't work for my engine.
I set my needles to flush and then fired it up, adjusted idle. Then tried to lean out the top enough to get it to clear out, but I'd never get there the run on issue would get worse and worse and it would flame out.
So I went back and forth leaning out the bottom and richening the top until I got it to the point where it cleaned out and held a solid WOT exhaust note and then also settled back down to a nice idle.
I am leaner in the bottom and richer on the top than where I was at when I first made the post. It's running about 250 at 85 ambient.
I like the way it's running but I'm concerned that I'm so far off from the consensus on here, but my r5tte3 and my r7 are both pretty close on needles.
05-04-2015, 10:15 PM
#1370
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (100)
Are you guys on the new horizontal carb?
Because running the lsn anywhere close to flush won't work for my engine.
I set my needles to flush and then fired it up, adjusted idle. Then tried to lean out the top enough to get it to clear out, but I'd never get there the run on issue would get worse and worse and it would flame out.
So I went back and forth leaning out the bottom and richening the top until I got it to the point where it cleaned out and held a solid WOT exhaust note and then also settled back down to a nice idle.
I am leaner in the bottom and richer on the top than where I was at when I first made the post. It's running about 250 at 85 ambient.
I like the way it's running but I'm concerned that I'm so far off from the consensus on here, but my r5tte3 and my r7 are both pretty close on needles.
Because running the lsn anywhere close to flush won't work for my engine.
I set my needles to flush and then fired it up, adjusted idle. Then tried to lean out the top enough to get it to clear out, but I'd never get there the run on issue would get worse and worse and it would flame out.
So I went back and forth leaning out the bottom and richening the top until I got it to the point where it cleaned out and held a solid WOT exhaust note and then also settled back down to a nice idle.
I am leaner in the bottom and richer on the top than where I was at when I first made the post. It's running about 250 at 85 ambient.
I like the way it's running but I'm concerned that I'm so far off from the consensus on here, but my r5tte3 and my r7 are both pretty close on needles.
Last edited by teddymp9; 05-04-2015 at 10:30 PM.
05-05-2015, 12:36 AM
#1371
Philly-how old is your engine? What plug are you running? How much black soot has built up on the top of the piston? What fuel and percentage?
Assuming you engine is newish, right plug temp AND new plug (old plug can give you any sorts of problems) and good 30% nitro fuel and clutch and bearings in good condition and ensuring there is some play between the servo arm and throttle rod collar (so it doesn't prevent the carb from closing against the neutral screw stop) you should be able to tune it relatively easy. Start by getting the engine heat soaked up to operating temp (235°f), hsn 1 turn in, lsn flush, idle gap .7mm. Lean the hsn 1 hour at a time until it will reach max revs down the straight. Just go back and forth until leaning another hour didn't increase max rpms. Then work on the lsn. Keep leaning an hour at a time until the car will accelerate away from a dead stop without hesitation. When it gets to this point don't lean it out anymore. Lower the idle as needed as u lean the lsn. If u lean the bottom too much, it'll flame out at the end of the straight. The engine won't idle smoothly. It'll idle at inconsistent rpm. If that happens richen it an hour at a time.
Assuming you engine is newish, right plug temp AND new plug (old plug can give you any sorts of problems) and good 30% nitro fuel and clutch and bearings in good condition and ensuring there is some play between the servo arm and throttle rod collar (so it doesn't prevent the carb from closing against the neutral screw stop) you should be able to tune it relatively easy. Start by getting the engine heat soaked up to operating temp (235°f), hsn 1 turn in, lsn flush, idle gap .7mm. Lean the hsn 1 hour at a time until it will reach max revs down the straight. Just go back and forth until leaning another hour didn't increase max rpms. Then work on the lsn. Keep leaning an hour at a time until the car will accelerate away from a dead stop without hesitation. When it gets to this point don't lean it out anymore. Lower the idle as needed as u lean the lsn. If u lean the bottom too much, it'll flame out at the end of the straight. The engine won't idle smoothly. It'll idle at inconsistent rpm. If that happens richen it an hour at a time.
05-05-2015, 02:27 AM
#1372
Tech Adept
Philly-how old is your engine? What plug are you running? How much black soot has built up on the top of the piston? What fuel and percentage?
Assuming you engine is newish, right plug temp AND new plug (old plug can give you any sorts of problems) and good 30% nitro fuel and clutch and bearings in good condition and ensuring there is some play between the servo arm and throttle rod collar (so it doesn't prevent the carb from closing against the neutral screw stop) you should be able to tune it relatively easy. Start by getting the engine heat soaked up to operating temp (235°f), hsn 1 turn in, lsn flush, idle gap .7mm. Lean the hsn 1 hour at a time until it will reach max revs down the straight. Just go back and forth until leaning another hour didn't increase max rpms. Then work on the lsn. Keep leaning an hour at a time until the car will accelerate away from a dead stop without hesitation. When it gets to this point don't lean it out anymore. Lower the idle as needed as u lean the lsn. If u lean the bottom too much, it'll flame out at the end of the straight. The engine won't idle smoothly. It'll idle at inconsistent rpm. If that happens richen it an hour at a time.
Assuming you engine is newish, right plug temp AND new plug (old plug can give you any sorts of problems) and good 30% nitro fuel and clutch and bearings in good condition and ensuring there is some play between the servo arm and throttle rod collar (so it doesn't prevent the carb from closing against the neutral screw stop) you should be able to tune it relatively easy. Start by getting the engine heat soaked up to operating temp (235°f), hsn 1 turn in, lsn flush, idle gap .7mm. Lean the hsn 1 hour at a time until it will reach max revs down the straight. Just go back and forth until leaning another hour didn't increase max rpms. Then work on the lsn. Keep leaning an hour at a time until the car will accelerate away from a dead stop without hesitation. When it gets to this point don't lean it out anymore. Lower the idle as needed as u lean the lsn. If u lean the bottom too much, it'll flame out at the end of the straight. The engine won't idle smoothly. It'll idle at inconsistent rpm. If that happens richen it an hour at a time.
05-05-2015, 06:06 AM
#1373
Tech Apprentice
Engine just dies...
Pull the trigger very slowly and see what happens:
(Also check where in the rev range it flames out, this will indicate the origin of the problem.)
If your engine is at normal operating temps and have idled for a short time it may flame out when the bottom end is too rich, because of fuel saturation in the sump and you pulled the accelerator too quickly. The car may splutter and puke fuel before this happens, if the car was idling for a long time.
If the top end is waaaay to lean then it will also just flame out due to fuel starvation, this happens regardless if you pull the trigger too quickly or very slowly.
Start by setting your idle gap to 0,7mm (thin paperclip or small drill bit diameter). Then start the car and run it until it's warm. Then adjust the bottom end until you get a smooth idle.
If you get a 2 stage or 3 stage idle (where the idle speed drops in different stages) then you'll now it's still too rich at the bottom end. If the idling picks up or goes higher then the bottom end may be too lean or the idling is too high. (greater possibility that the bottom end too lean).
Then adjust the top end for WOT runs and check the bottom end idle each time when you stop.
Remember to correct the bottom end mixture after adjusting the top end for WOT runs..
(Also check where in the rev range it flames out, this will indicate the origin of the problem.)
If your engine is at normal operating temps and have idled for a short time it may flame out when the bottom end is too rich, because of fuel saturation in the sump and you pulled the accelerator too quickly. The car may splutter and puke fuel before this happens, if the car was idling for a long time.
If the top end is waaaay to lean then it will also just flame out due to fuel starvation, this happens regardless if you pull the trigger too quickly or very slowly.
Start by setting your idle gap to 0,7mm (thin paperclip or small drill bit diameter). Then start the car and run it until it's warm. Then adjust the bottom end until you get a smooth idle.
If you get a 2 stage or 3 stage idle (where the idle speed drops in different stages) then you'll now it's still too rich at the bottom end. If the idling picks up or goes higher then the bottom end may be too lean or the idling is too high. (greater possibility that the bottom end too lean).
Then adjust the top end for WOT runs and check the bottom end idle each time when you stop.
Remember to correct the bottom end mixture after adjusting the top end for WOT runs..
05-05-2015, 07:21 AM
#1374
Tech Adept
My engine would flame if I pulled the throttle abruptly, it would bobble, spit and gurgle and then being to lean out of I pulled the trigger slowly.
When I would get the throttle to clear out and let it go the idle would come down slow and steady. As I leaned out the bottom the it went from a gradual decline to a definite 2 stage, high idle and drop. As I leaned further and richened the top the high idle stage reduced and eventually went to zero.
When setting the idle to I measure with the Venturi on or off?
And btw, thanks to everyone I'm learning a lot through this process.
When I would get the throttle to clear out and let it go the idle would come down slow and steady. As I leaned out the bottom the it went from a gradual decline to a definite 2 stage, high idle and drop. As I leaned further and richened the top the high idle stage reduced and eventually went to zero.
When setting the idle to I measure with the Venturi on or off?
And btw, thanks to everyone I'm learning a lot through this process.
05-05-2015, 07:38 AM
#1375
Tech Adept
What about mileage and lifetime on the reds? Especially R7 evoke? A new supplier start to import reds engines and we dont have any idea about life and how lasting will be. Please comment.
05-05-2015, 08:35 AM
#1376
Tech Master
OK, so, here is something noone thinks of.
If you have a to fast throttleservo you will have a leanbog and problem adjusting your engine. I have seen it a couple of times. It took a looong time before i understood what was happening. Fuel is of a higher mass than air, when you servo is to fast, engine gets a leanbog at first because it does not get any fuel. If you have a radio that you can adjust servospeed, try and reduce you throttleservo speed and see if this helps.
If you have a to fast throttleservo you will have a leanbog and problem adjusting your engine. I have seen it a couple of times. It took a looong time before i understood what was happening. Fuel is of a higher mass than air, when you servo is to fast, engine gets a leanbog at first because it does not get any fuel. If you have a radio that you can adjust servospeed, try and reduce you throttleservo speed and see if this helps.
05-05-2015, 10:20 AM
#1378
Tech Master
Lifitime is very very good for me with reds engines last year. What is important is that you do not run the engine with a lean bottom end. There are better engines regarding milage. I have not have had an R7.
05-05-2015, 03:10 PM
#1379
Tech Regular
I have run multiple REDS engines and I recommend that you change the rod from time to time just to be on the safe side. I have had engines go for 10+ gallons, but at some point of time, the rod will go... I have now started to change the rod at around 5 gallons just to be on the safe side, and I check it about every 2nd gallon. If you treat the engine careful, then it will last a very long time. Compression has never been an issue on my REDS unless i got dirt in them.
05-05-2015, 04:36 PM
#1380
(R5R) The manual recommends changing rods after break-in, but I didn't, basically curious about lifespan, I probably will when I run the more expensive R7.
So far I have 25 Litres on it and zero problems with running. The crank has a little wear of about 0.04mm on the clutch bearing end, so I am monitoring that, but it doesn't seem to be causing any problems.
So far I have 25 Litres on it and zero problems with running. The crank has a little wear of about 0.04mm on the clutch bearing end, so I am monitoring that, but it doesn't seem to be causing any problems.