REDS Engines (Mario Rossi)
#1576
Tech Apprentice
Tuning Reds hcx carb on r5r
Hey guys I'm a newbie here and have a question about tuning. I've been running novas for a while now and just got an r5r with the new carb(long needle). Do I set the .5mm idle gap then lean the lsn until idle drops down nice and smooth immediately then tune the hsn for top end or is it different in any way. I've heard these tube like a Picco and I read on Piccos site that when setting the lsn ur supposed to riches it half a turn after leaning it out til idle drops quickly after a run. Any type of step by step would be great. Thanks for all your help.
#1577
Hey guys I'm a newbie here and have a question about tuning. I've been running novas for a while now and just got an r5r with the new carb(long needle). Do I set the .5mm idle gap then lean the lsn until idle drops down nice and smooth immediately then tune the hsn for top end or is it different in any way. I've heard these tube like a Picco and I read on Piccos site that when setting the lsn ur supposed to riches it half a turn after leaning it out til idle drops quickly after a run. Any type of step by step would be great. Thanks for all your help.
Preset a 0.6 mm idle gap to start or as close to it as you can manage......then tune the LSN and HSN together to get yourself into the ballpark.... then do as you describe and set the LSN to have a strong but slowly loading up idle..and I aim for the HSN to have crisp power and a fast idle down...If I cannot get a fast idle down with crisp power I may try lowering the idle gap a touch or checking the linkage... Now if I get a fast idle down but the engine wont idle properly I may try a slightly bigger idle gap....... With these long needle carbs I find it best to make small movements and do a little trial and error to see exactly what is the best..with the goal to have crisp power, fast idle down and a strong but descending idle speed.... the longer it can idle the better but we always want to have a slight load up as it idles....I find these engines like to be a little richer then a Nova and will want to run cooler...I suggest monitoring the glowplug coil shape to see if your tune is lean or rich...if the coils start distorting in shape it means your either too lean or need to run a cooler plug....... These engines do not give as much idle carry as a Nova if you get too lean, so be careful and listen very closely to the idle down, if its lean it will carry slightly but nowhere near as much as a lean Nova will.......I recommend once you find the sweet spot to run the engine at the richest point where it will still clear out and make full power....The glowplug will tell you whats happening, if the coil shape is good your OK...if the coil is distorted or warped then we are too lean....
#1578
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Step 1: Always start rich on top and bottom to re-tune and turn up idle. Usually about flush or out from flush
Step 2: Then tune the top to get crisp, clearing out
Step 3: then work the bottom lean while reducing idle until the bottom "feels" right. If you tuned everything correctly in the "pocket" your engine will run anywhere from 215-240 degrees.
Step 2: Then tune the top to get crisp, clearing out
Step 3: then work the bottom lean while reducing idle until the bottom "feels" right. If you tuned everything correctly in the "pocket" your engine will run anywhere from 215-240 degrees.
#1579
I'm on my first gallon and I have a little seep out the front of the crank and I'm wondering should I get it fixed or ok to keep running it?
#1581
Tech Initiate
Best r7 exhast sytem
What's the best pipe for r7 for medium grip tracks
#1583
Tech Initiate
R7
I have two r7 and run them both with the 2112and small manifold but the power is a little two aggressive when the traction goes down , I have been told to try the 2104 is it good with run time??? And how is the run time with the 2113
Last edited by Ic27; 12-24-2015 at 02:50 PM. Reason: Add pic
#1584
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
I just recently got my hands on a 8T with a reds r5s. I have what maybe a simple question. The paperwork that came with the motor recommends 25 to 30% nitro. My lhs carries the vp 20%. I'm not a racer and it seems to run strong to me with it being by far the nicest nitro I've ever had. I don't think there should be any problems with running the 20% but I guess that's why I'm asking here because honestly I've never owned a tuned racing motor before either and I would just like to not abuse it more than normal is all. Thanks for any suggestions
#1586
Tech Master
On 30% you will have more torque. It will also be harder to drive as the power goes up :-)
#1588
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
Seriously, you don't like VP. I won't pretend to know a lot the readily available fuels I have nearby are VP and Traxxas fuel. I don't have any problems with Traxxas but I'm not crazy about the plastic bottles. VP is usually a pretty trusted name in most forms of racing fuels. What recommendations do you guys have then. Ordering fuel online. It was my understanding 30% might wear the motor quicker idk. I just want to run something in it that keeps the motor and my wallet happy.
#1589
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Seriously, you don't like VP. I won't pretend to know a lot the readily available fuels I have nearby are VP and Traxxas fuel. I don't have any problems with Traxxas but I'm not crazy about the plastic bottles. VP is usually a pretty trusted name in most forms of racing fuels. What recommendations do you guys have then. Ordering fuel online. It was my understanding 30% might wear the motor quicker idk. I just want to run something in it that keeps the motor and my wallet happy.
#1590
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I personally run Byrons 30/9 Prodriver. My R5TTE2 has between 7-8gal on it, with only front bearing and Rod changes.
A couple years ago I had a rod failure which started a pretty informative conversation between a few Reds drivers, and the concensus was that it was a fuel issue, as I had just switched from Werks to VP 30%. At that time there had been quite a few failures with VP. From then on I have been running Byrons with ZERO failures. A buddy of mine runs another Picco based manufactures motor, and he had had a few failures in the past 2 years while running VP as well, and since his switch to Byrons this past year, he's had zero failures as well.
A couple years ago I had a rod failure which started a pretty informative conversation between a few Reds drivers, and the concensus was that it was a fuel issue, as I had just switched from Werks to VP 30%. At that time there had been quite a few failures with VP. From then on I have been running Byrons with ZERO failures. A buddy of mine runs another Picco based manufactures motor, and he had had a few failures in the past 2 years while running VP as well, and since his switch to Byrons this past year, he's had zero failures as well.