thanks zixxer. I got the engine to idle through the first finally but i had to keep the igniter on it to keep it running? Bad plug?

I had the same thing with a GRP tuned a few weeks ago. At run in it would easily stall. Happend with a GRP 5 (medium) plug. It got better as i leaned the engine in steps during the break in proces. Funny thing is im still using the plug and the engine rips I dont know if the TQ plugs are similair to the GRP's but it seems the GRP ones flame out easily on a rich setting, quicker then other plugs i have used.

yup they are cold natured as well ....i thought i had fouled the stock plug during break in ...but as i got the motor warmed up i found that it ran just fine ...hold the ignitor on the plug for a minute or so during break in ...let it get a little more warmed up and some heat in it ...and i think you will find that it will run fine ..at a point i swapped the glowplug out and then i foound the same symptom ...so then i got the engine a little more warmed up and it was golden

The #5 and #6 TQ plugs are close, but I'm really diggin the #6, which comes with the engine, especially in the 95F+ outside conditions. It allows me to run a tick leaner on the LSN, for a perfect idle, even after pit stops.

The hotter #5 plug was better in cooler conditions or humid night racing. If the #5 is run in hot air conditions you will have to run a richer LSN, which can cause loading-up at extended idle and/or after pit stops. If you don't then it will lean out as your tank gets close to empty, causing a sudden temp surge, resulting in difficult restarts. That's why I've gone back to the #6 for now. We will try to get some #7 plugs on the next factory order.

Has anyone done any back-to-back performance comparisons with an exhaust gas cooler in their return line? I may try one later today.

hey roy ...i personally have not tried the cooler ...my friend matt who is light speeds smarter than most said he gets about 20-30 seconds more run time running the nova motors ....he also said you can get the same result by running a longer pressure line ....hey roy is there a chart that lists the heat ranges of all the tq plugs for the 501-t...or could you list them for us
thanks bro ...let us know what you think about the exhaust cooler

http://www.tecnopower-motor.com/inde...plug-to-choose

This is on the tecno power website.

Actually Technopower does not list our complete plug selection, which is as follows:

H4T = very hot
H5T = hot
H6T = medium (stock plug)
H7T = cold

thanks roy thats perfect ....

Thanks for the list Roy. I have to write that down and keep it in our pit box for reference.

I use Josh Cyrul's breakin routine to a tee and have had excellent success over the years, I have about 1 1/2 gallons on my TQ and still cant turn it over by hand and its pissed off on the track at about 220' with H6 and dynamite 086 in 95' 30% humid weather

Engine Break-In 101

In the area of engine break-in, there are several different procedures
that have been used over the years. Different manufactures, top drivers,
and hobby store experts all vary in their opinion as to which is best.
Over the past 10+ years of nitro racing I have found this procedure to
give me good results in both areas of on-track performance as well as
reliability.

Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready
to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter,
starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't
annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to
warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some
temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening
the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and
hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From
here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again
running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks
and shut the engine down.

Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled
down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On
the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of
holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing
2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the
tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue
throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per
every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8
tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.

Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit
the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the
top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the
second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give
you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really
start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.

The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a
large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel
means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also
helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been
left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a
load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it –
somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track
when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is
broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not
be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the
rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.

This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years
of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some
engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time
and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of
racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!

Thanks for everyones help. Im well in to the Josh Cyrul break in of my engine and im excited to see how it performs. i uploaded a vid to youtube as well.

Now that the break in is over.This motor screams running a consistent 223 temp.

does this mill have a real smooth powerband like the Tuned GRP's had??

Congratulations Max! Now you should back off the top just a scosh, so you don't over heat it when racing. You will then see that it can still haul the mail without necessarily screaming down the straights, and without you having to grab a handful of throttle.

Gtsum, it has the same smooth powerband, just better mileage when tuned and piped properly.