COMPETITION HEAT INC.
#1126
Hey guys. I just picked up the 12v version and didn't realize i couldn't run it on 4-cell lipo till I got it here and read the instructions. Can someone point me to a good place besides HobbyKing, that sells cheap reliable 3s lipos. Thanks in advance.
Oh yeah...has anyone run the 12v off of a power supply turned down to 12v?
Oh yeah...has anyone run the 12v off of a power supply turned down to 12v?
#1127
Hey guys. I just picked up the 12v version and didn't realize i couldn't run it on 4-cell lipo till I got it here and read the instructions. Can someone point me to a good place besides HobbyKing, that sells cheap reliable 3s lipos. Thanks in advance.
Oh yeah...has anyone run the 12v off of a power supply turned down to 12v?
Oh yeah...has anyone run the 12v off of a power supply turned down to 12v?
#1128
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,147
Hey guys. I just picked up the 12v version and didn't realize i couldn't run it on 4-cell lipo till I got it here and read the instructions. Can someone point me to a good place besides HobbyKing, that sells cheap reliable 3s lipos. Thanks in advance.
Oh yeah...has anyone run the 12v off of a power supply turned down to 12v?
Oh yeah...has anyone run the 12v off of a power supply turned down to 12v?
http://www.venom-group.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=15009
I know they are Venom and I hate Venom's Nimh but the lipos they make have never given me any problems. The MSRP is much higher then the LHS price, at least by me it is.
I was looking at these for there multi function plugs. They come with 4 different style's of plugs to choose from. Example: If you have TRX charge leads off your charger, you use the TRX plug on the pack to charge it. Then you use the Deans to run the heater. It's a nice feature IMO. So, you have Deans, TRX, Tamiya, and bullet plugs that come with them in the bag.
#1129
here's the 12v power supply that i use : http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...er-Supply-Blue
#1130
Tech Initiate
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 21
I got this 12v unit 2 months ago, and now the heating element rubber coating is cracking. It started off splitting in that area and now its drying out and coming off. I have been using a 12v volt gel cell and the 12v mini power supply that’s suggested on this thread. The unit is still fully functional as it heats my engine to 200F in just under 10 minutes, any ideas?
#1131
I got this 12v unit 2 months ago, and now the heating element rubber coating is cracking. It started off splitting in that area and now its drying out and coming off. I have been using a 12v volt gel cell and the 12v mini power supply that’s suggested on this thread. The unit is still fully functional as it heats my engine to 200F in just under 10 minutes, any ideas?
Attachment 704403
Attachment 704403
That's interesting forsure
#1132
I got this 12v unit 2 months ago, and now the heating element rubber coating is cracking. It started off splitting in that area and now its drying out and coming off. I have been using a 12v volt gel cell and the 12v mini power supply that’s suggested on this thread. The unit is still fully functional as it heats my engine to 200F in just under 10 minutes, any ideas?
Attachment 704403
Attachment 704403
what voltage have u set on the output of the power supply ? needs to be 11.1 - 11.5v
what voltage are u charging the gel cell to ? needs to be 12-12.5v max to extend the life of the heater not 13.8v as some are saying
i've used mine daily at these settings for 3 months without any issues what so ever
#1133
Tech Addict
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 649
I would just email Comp Heat. They have great customer service.
#1135
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 462
here's the 12v power supply that i use : http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...er-Supply-Blue
#1136
i was getting 125* at the case, and mounts.
and 100* on the bottom of the chassis at the mount bolts. between the bolts, maybe 90*.
70* on the chassis up by the front diff.
the bottom of the chassis was warm to touch, but defenetly not hot. makes me wonder after a good run, or practice how warm the bottom of the chassis is after a couple tanks of fuel.
#1137
with the head temps around 200*.
i was getting 125* at the case, and mounts.
and 100* on the bottom of the chassis at the mount bolts. between the bolts, maybe 90*.
70* on the chassis up by the front diff.
the bottom of the chassis was warm to touch, but defenetly not hot. makes me wonder after a good run, or practice how warm the bottom of the chassis is after a couple tanks of fuel.
i was getting 125* at the case, and mounts.
and 100* on the bottom of the chassis at the mount bolts. between the bolts, maybe 90*.
70* on the chassis up by the front diff.
the bottom of the chassis was warm to touch, but defenetly not hot. makes me wonder after a good run, or practice how warm the bottom of the chassis is after a couple tanks of fuel.
another 5-10 minutes would see the chassis temp up to about 150 then u know all the internals are up to temp, crank, bearings, rod ......
it all helps with the life of your motor & wear n tear on your buggy/truggy just in wasted warm up laps, i fire up with 30 sec to go to the start of the qualy or finals & only got caught out once with a plug that i forgot to change the week before !
#1138



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