That Bonito is sick man. looks like it has alot of grunt but still lays the power down nice..good mid to top as well!! My Toro Nero only had a simular power band after it was modded...

Just got new R21 Nitrotec/Nova mill and need some info.
 

I have started 1/8 scale nitro racing about three months ago but not real sure on break in method for R21 Nitrotec. Which I know it's Losi branded but it's a Novarossi. Also which Nova mill is most similar to the R21? I read instructions on running in but the recommended fuel would be difficult for my to get I usually use 30% Odonnell Speed Blend. A friend told me that I should use different fuel for break in other than Speed Blend and I wanted to see what some exp. Novarossi mill racers use and the method also. I wish i could just use Speed Blend because it's rough on the wallet to order fuel online but it's rougher to ruin new mill! Anybody tips/info/help for future Nova lover! I hope there's not to much difference in power than the Ninja jx.21 I got with buggy it has 7 gallons thru it thats why I got R21 I am sending Ninja for pinch and bearings. Also I did run 1/10th nitro SCT for a year so I have decent tunning ability.Thanks!

well, what i do is that i get the Byron lubebooster and put 2% of that oil in the first gallon of fuel. It is a very good castor oil!!

If i can npot get that oil, i go to the phamacy and buy resin oil. that is very expensive here in Norway, but it is still better than running a low oil contents fuel when running in. I did use the Byron 25/9 and that is not enough oil in my book. I still had 2 gallons left, got a new piston/sleeve and used 2% of catsor. Voila, great fuel and very good for the enigne...

I broke mine in on odonnel speed blend 30%.Don't let the oil % scare you.Just don't get in a big hurry to lean it out.As long as its rich you have plenty of lube.I always use the heat cycle method and it has never failed me.

Wow!sound pretty too technical for me.Lol!This is the best engine i ever own so far and i loved it.Running stock shims with 30% fuel i thought it runs excellent.But i would like to know whats the different it ll makes once u got that sweet spot u talking about?

I highly recommend you follow the stickie "the break in bible" on top of the nitro engine page, written by Monty "the Novarossi Guru", He recommends Byrons 30% GEN2 11% oil, personally I add 1/2 Oz of Klotz Benol to a gal of byrons,some may think it's overkill but I figure a 'lil extra can't hurt much in performance. plus the smoke smells really trick.:cool:

I found one for my P5. Do you have one for a FMS? Pm if you do.

thank you... the engine is more impressive then I anticipated it would be... I have always read they were soft down low, which was backed up by what I seen when I seen a few run...However much to my surprise the engine has more low RPM grunt then any .21 I have run to date...It is a long stroke engine and it feels and acts just as a long stroke should... The powerband comes in super early in the RPM and gives the engine a very unique feel ... I have actually bumped up the mod a little and have the engine pulling a few thousand extra RPM now while still retaining that stump pulling bottom end...Uber pricey engine, but one hell of a trick truggy engine......My buddy who owns this engine bugged me to modify it, but i was hesitant because I was worried about a soft bottom end, but dam, were we ever shocked when we actually got it on the ground....

It does look impressive brother!! The Bonito being based off the Toro is softer on bottom than expected as the Toro was as well but the transfers are a couple degrees lower than the Toro so it isn't as soft. The 2084 or 9853 and the 21 seems to be a good pipe for the stocker but I like the 9901/20 after I do my work on it. I have been getting 12+ minutes on a tank driving normally and usually pit between 9-11 minutes depending on track, tune and setup. The biggest thing that engine design needed was a intake timing change, exhaust port timing change and the crank filled. Playing around with the timing and fill will yield different results but a basic fill puts you in a good ballpark and what I also do and have had great results is making the satalite ports and main exhaust port open at the same time as it yields the most possible exhaust surface area at the start of blowdown giving the engine the best possible low end response. I think alot of the soft bottom was because the satalites were opening a few degrees before the main port and it was bleeding down before it had enough surface area to blowdown and scavage correctly giving the engine that soft feel but with the right changes, it goes from being a ho hum to one of my favorites.

Bump:)

my crank is not filled....053 didnt like this engine.....086 on short manifold is best conventional pipe...............transfers are cut, boost is cut, backplate is cut, button is cut..and of course exhaust cut............I have tested all the Nova pipes now and settled on a lowly OFNA 086, .....But in all fairness I have to run the Nova pipes on a shorter header...so far this engine wants to run a very short header....Even on a shorty the bottom end is unreal.....

New R7 rod 4 sale
 

New in package R7 rod for sale 45 bucks shipped

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...si-r7-rod.html

Hi all. Im still looking for a crank for my FMS. If anyone has a good used one that they want to sell please PM me. Thanks.

Hello im running Nova P5xlt with 25% of nitro i want to use 30% i need to put another shim ??? im running in hi altitude 3300ft over the sea

nope , you are overshimmed for the 25% you are running ona broken in engine already

i would drop shimming to .70mm and use 30% in your case of higher elevation , requires either a .20mm shim or a .10mm shim