moisesing

iTrader: (5)

Does anyone knows the part number for the engine button for the Novarossi Drake engine?

bretto107

Hi. Im having trouble getting the button off the motor. Is it normal on Nova's or am i doing something wrong. It is really tight into the sleeve. I have to use a screw driver to pri it a bit.
Also i have a new motor that i pulled down before i used it and when i put it back together i put the dot on the button forward. Will this be a problem? I have used the motor since doing this

rotor head33

iTrader: (11)

Dot goes to the exhaust port

I do think think it will be an issue it's just a way to have the head button the same way every time and to line the screw holes up I believe.

gt racing

take out the plug before, that will help.

bretto107

1/8 IC Fan

iTrader: (102)

I believe you are talking about the head button, being based on the 5 Off motor it would be 28002

bretto107

[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

bretto107

sorry for the multiple post,i'm just learning how to upload photo's.

I pulled down 1 of my motors and the photo's above are what it looked like.There seems to be dirt getting in under the button. Any idea on how this could happen. All the screws were tight. Also what is the best way to clean the motor. I would like to get it pinched.

cczjordan

It is normal to have a bit of dirts at that area, use denatured alcohol and tooth brush with paper towel, if u send for repinch then just let the expert do it for you. Anyway wat fuel do you use?

bretto107

I'm using VP Tessman blend.

bretto107

In the photo of the crank, is that dirt stuck to it?

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

The dot on the button should face the exhaust port. This is what the dot means. As someone else mentioned take the plug out before trying to remove the button and yes they can be tight in the sleeve. It's important that you remove the button straight.

The gunk you see in the photos isn't normal or good. That is corrosion as a result of using poor quality fuel or an old fuel that has water in it. Nitro is hydroscopic which means over time the water content of the fuel increases especially if it is not stored correctly. It also builds up if the engine hasn't been stored correctly.

You need to remove the gunk before running the engine again. You also need to ensure that you are using a good/clean air filter element. I can also see evidence of erosion from dust etc that's been going through your engine.

1/8 IC Fan

iTrader: (102)

So the other day, local racer running a P3SX had his rod Fail...(one of my favorite Novas, so simple)..
felt bad for the guy - he is a young racer early 20's trying to have fun and a real good kid, helps and volunteers at the track.

So a buddy and I get to brain storming, I had P5XLT parts in the box, as i was still waiting for new bearings...

So we took the Crank, new PSR, Turbo headbutton and backing plate from my P5 and Slapped them in his P3XS! Ran in the motor installed in the car on the starter box for two tanks and finished it on the track (no one else was running, so we took a sunday drive, lol).

Needless to say, after we took it apart, inspected it, sealed and reassembled, he has himself a stealth little P5XLT. He is so happy and you can tell he is glad to be up and running again.

- New Plug and Button Head O-ring were installed after the breakin.

Pics to come...

revo61

iTrader: (18)

Has anyone used Avid ceramic engine bearings before? Are they any good?

DrNitro

I've used ceramic bearings from AVID to replace the original ceramic front and rear bearings in my PLUS.21-4 BTTS. The AVID bearings were perfect with respect to accuracy of fit. Since then the engine has burned around 15 liters of fuel without any problems. The best is that they were cheaper with shipping costs to Europe than the Nova ceramic bearings would have been.