Yeah, with the 9901 pipe you only get like 85% of the top end of some other combos, but races are never won on the straightaways, they're won over the triples and double-doubles.. that's where you need the power to clear the jumps

Just wondering what the recommendation is for a washer between the front bearing and the flywheel collar. Do it or don't do it? I have done it and the flywheel sits along way forward on mt p5.

Cheers

Love the feel and performance of the keep-off .21-4 engine, but my rear bearing went out after 4 gallons and even if I could find one in stock, I'm not sure I want to invest $100 in another bearing.

I've read some people aren't getting the life out of these new proprietary Nova rear bearings. Any truth to that or is it just me?

My plus 4 based engines got 9+ gallons on the entire engine before going bad.

I was thinking of putting all the internals in an old BTT crankcase just so I can have a standard rear bearing, and I might just go with BTT engines from here on out because I'm not yet sold on these so-called better rear bearing designs.

I have seen many with premature failure that have come in the shop, some with only about a gallon some with more. Yes it is upsetting to people for sure with the price of those inner bearings.

Seems like Nova just bump their bearing size up by a few tenths of a millimeter now and then to keep people away from 3rd party bearings..
I've been running a BTT with the 70% cheaper TKO bearing all day today and all day yesterday, and I felt like it worked fine.
If you really want to go crazy you can buy the ceramic $22 Protek bearing

The protek ceramics is what I use for rebuilds. Tolerances are nice and tight. For the price, well worth it even if it only lasts 4 gallon.

Just wanted to check in and thank you guys for the advice on my Nova P5. I had planned on tuning that thing over the weekend and popping back in......that being said while going over my car I realized Friday night's wreck did extensive damage to my front end so I had to blow some cash at Amain before tuning

Now that the car is back up to par I threw in the 7mm insert....fattened up the high end and began tuning. Took me a bit to get things straightened out but I think I got it! Turns out the thing was way to lean on the low end.....go figure lol ! I got the low end corrected last night. Nice idle....and decent transition. You guys made me paranoid about the top end being to lean!?! I laid in bed all night thinking about the dam top end and how I still had a rough transition and a lot of smoke.......yeah so I leaned the top end about a half an hour total and it is smooth from top to bottom and after two consecutive tanks it was running about 230 degrees F. When I began leaning the top end I had to richen the low end ever so slightly as well. Thanks so much for all the help! Hope the weather stays decent for tomorrow nights race!

Hey All,
What causes an engine to run on for a little after take off from a jump?
Nova P5xl, 6.5 venturi, 25%.

Thanks
M.Ellis

idle gap to large and LSN to lean.

Which venturi do you guys recommend for a new Bonito in a new Mugen MBX7T truck?

Question on a motor. I drive a losi 3.0 buggy and am ready to buy a new engine. I have a used p5 in it now that I bought used in a pinch and am pretty happy with it. I am leaning towards a keep off 4 port right now. I was just wondering though. Is a keep off 7 just to much for a buggy? Only reason I ask is I would think the 7 port would not have as much bottom as a the 4 port which sometimes makes a buggy easier to drive. I have at least driven a BTT WC in a buggy and thought it was butter smooth. Now this was in a mbx7 which isnt geared as deep as the losi buggy. Just curious if anyone runs the 7 port in a buggy and how do you like it? Thanks.

7mm

Cheers

The 7-port will be fun in buggy, but a handful. I run the keep-off 7 in truggy and never find that i need more low end.

Hi all,
I'm thinking about changing to the new carburator on my 4BTTC engine. Can I get some more runtime with it?